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I N S TA L L AT I O N I N S T RU C T I O N S AND USER’S GUIDE

F i b e r g l a s s E n d l e s s Po o l ™

Description

Planning Considerations for In-Ground Installations

The Fiberglass Endless Pool offers the same quality swim and attractive addition to a home that over 11,000 customers have already experienced with an original Endless Pool. However, the Fiberglass Endless Pool requires a different installation procedure. This document describes some of the basic information that is necessary to understand before installing a Fiberglass pool, regardless of its install configuration.

A compacted sand base can support the weight of the pool when soil conditions are favorable. More detailed information on how to properly lay the sand base and level and backfill the pool shell is available in the section titled, Fully and Partially InGround Fiberglass Endless Pool Installation.

Traditionally, fiberglass pools are installed fully in-ground, where backfilled earth provides support for the fiberglass shell against the pressure of the water in the pool. For aboveground installations where there is no earth for support, the shell must be supported by other means. Depending on the type of installation that has been selected for a particular site, Endless Pools has provided different instructions to explain each installation process.

When considering the appropriate depth for the pit, remember that the final elevation of the pool is determined by how the pool’s coping (and related carpentry), or deck will be finished. Be sure to consider how the different types or thicknesses of finish work, decking (concrete, tile, wood), coping or skirting will affect the final elevation of the project. Once the deck or finishing work and elevation has been decided upon, work backwards from that elevation to decide how much excavation needs to be done. Be sure to take into account the thickness of the compacted sand base on which the pool will sit.

There are a few different ways to give a Fiberglass Endless Pool the desired installation appearance, all of which are detailed in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide: • For fully in-ground installations, a pit must be excavated to the appropriate depth. Once the pool is lifted and set in place, the outside pool walls must be backfilled against in order for it to be properly supported. A cavity must be constructed at the front of the pool for the Water Quality System. • For partially in-ground installations where no reinforcement structure will be used, the pool must be installed with no more than 18"of the pool above the finished grade. A cavity must be constructed at the front of the pool for the Water Quality System. • For partially in-ground installations where the pool will be installed with more than 18" of the pool above the finished grade, a pit must be excavated and an appropriate sub-base layer set in place to support the pool. This configuration requires the optional External Freestanding Frame and is only possible with the 5' tall (standard height) model. • For fully aboveground installations, the pool (with the optional External Freestanding Frame) must be placed on a level platform. Preferably this is a concrete slab, but it can also be on a well-constructed, properly reinforced, level, rot-resistant plywood platform. The fully aboveground Fiberglass Endless Pool configuration is only available with the 5' tall (standard height) model.

Planning Considerations for Aboveground Installations For true fully aboveground installations, the optional External Freestanding Frame must be purchased for the standard depth Fiberglass Endless Pool, as this depth pool is the only model that can offer the External Freestanding Frame as an option. This shell needs to be set on a smooth and level base that can support the weight of the pool when it is filled with water. Access through the skirting or finish work at the front of the pool will have to be maintained in order to perform maintenance on the Water Quality System and the hydraulic connections when necessary.

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Keep in mind that the final elevation of the pool should not be a low spot such that drainage from the surrounding area flows into the pool. The final or finished elevation of the pool should be high enough that runoff flows away from the pool. If unsure of how the runoff in your yard will be affected by the final elevation of the pool or visa versa, it may be necessary to contact a civil engineer or landscape architect. A local or state one-call service should be notified before any digging or excavation takes place as to prevent damage to any underground utilities. Depending on how the pool is going to be delivered to the site and unloaded from the truck, it may be necessary to have the pit for the pool already dug so that (if a crane is being used) the pool can be set in place upon delivery. If the preparation work cannot be completed by the time the fiberglass pool shell is scheduled to arrive, the pool shell can almost always be temporarily set in a driveway. Please discuss the delivery method with the Endless Pools Shipping representative.

Pool Delivery Prior to doing any excavation, it is necessary to determine the type of machine that should be used to unload the pool from the delivery truck and either into the pit (that is going to be dug) or onto the platform or slab on which it will stand. Depending on the span and height over which the pool needs to be lifted, it is possible that a backhoe will be adequate to lift the pool. If a crane is required, consult with a crane company to determine the type of crane that will be necessary for the particular installation, and when that particular crane would be available (in your area, on the day you plan to receive and install the pool) to lift the pool into place. The weight of the empty pool is approximately 1000 lbs, but depending on where the pool will be unloaded from the truck and what it must be lifted over in order for it to be set in place, the type and size of crane needed to do the job may need special consideration. If the preparation work is done properly, the crane may not need to be used on site for much longer than an hour.

Receiving the Pool on Site In an effort to keep shipping costs to a minimum, Endless Pools has determined that for different locations, different delivery methods are more effective than others. Because of this, the Fiberglass Endless Pool is most often delivered on a long flatbed trailer that is towed by a pickup truck. But it is also frequently delivered on a tilt-bed trailer that is towed by a pickup truck, and it may occasionally be delivered by a large flatbed tractor-trailer. In most cases, it is necessary to have a crane to meet the delivery truck on site to hoist the pool off the truck. The type of installation and layout of the job site will determine the type of machinery that will be used to lift the pool. All of this planning should be completed with the Endless Pools Shipping representative in order to better understand the delivery options for the Fiberglass Endless Pool. The Swim Unit, Water Quality System, and any other options ordered will usually be shipped via UPS separately from the pool shell. These components require assembly and installation on the pool shell after everything has arrived on site, but before surrounding finish work is completed.

Apply a bead of silicone around the edge of the skimmer hole slide the back plate of the skimmer over the skimmer body from outside the pool.

Pool Shell Preparation Once the pool is unloaded from the delivery truck and set in a temporary location, the pool must be plumbed. If using a crane to move the pool, it is imperative that the plumbing be done before the crane arrives, so that it does not need to wait on the site while the plumbing is completed. The plumbing requires the use of templates (found in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Accessory Kit) for the propulsion unit, and optional lights or hydrotherapy jets. The propulsion unit must be installed in the pool at this time as well.

Tools Required Caulk gun

Tape measure

Carpenters level

Flat straightedge

Drill with #2 Phillips bit

Circular/Belt sander or grinding wheel

Jigsaw and 2 1/5" hole saw

Adjustable wrench or socket wrench kit

Apply another bead of silicone around the perimeter of the skimmer hole, on the outside of the pool, before pressing the back plate against the pool wall. Now, from inside the pool, begin to attach the skimmer to the wall using the provided screws. The screws will go through the skimmer’s front flange, through the fastener holes in the fiberglass shell, and into the back plate that was just set in place. Do not tighten any of the screws before first threading all of the screws into their respective holes.

Attaching the Skimmer Remove the skimmer from its box, and remove the faceplate, basket, filter, hardware, etc. from the skimmer body. Feed the body through the hole in the pool wall and verify the fastener holes in the skimmer faceplate flange align with the holes already cut into the fiberglass shell. The skimmer body may be loose in the pre-cut skimmer opening in the pool shell. The silicone (cartridge tube found in WQS plumbing parts kit) should be used generously to assure that there are no leaks around the skimmer opening. It is helpful to have another person available to help with the next couple steps.

When the screws are tightened, some of the silicone should be seen squeezing out from between the skimmer’s front flange and the pool wall.

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After all of the screws are tightened, inspect the back plate from outside the pool, and be sure that it is drawn tightly against the back side of pool shell, and that the silicone has been squeezed out similarly on the back side. Once the skimmer is firmly in place, use a damp cloth inside the shell to clean up any extra silicone around the skimmer’s front flange. Allow the silicone to cure before proceeding.

Cutting the Holes

pool shell. Refer to and follow all instructions on the included drawings, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through Wall Fittings, Lights, and Jets Suction,” and “Hole Template and

Cutting Pattern for Mounting Propulsion Housing” when laying out the appropriate holes on the pool shell, but do this ONLY after the skimmer has been attached to the pool wall (in the previous step), as the hole locations for mounting the propulsion housing

The pool will arrive with a skimmer hole already cut, but the hole for the return line and holes for mounting the propulsion housing

must be drilled or cut on site. If underwater lights or hydrotherapy jets have been ordered, the appropriate holes for those options must be cut on site as well. All holes should be cut from inside the

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need to be verified against the skimmer location. Call Endless Pools Customer Service with any questions about the hole layout patterns. Once measured, marked, and double-checked, drill and cut all necessary holes in the front of the Fiberglass Endless Pool shell.

From inside the pool, run a very small bead of silicone around the perimeter of the hole in the wall. With one rubber gasket over the fitting body, slide it through the pool wall, as shown in the photos. Now, from outside the pool with the fitting body protruding through the pool wall, apply another thin bead of silicone around the perimeter of the hole, and slide the cork gasket over the fitting body. Finally, by hand tightening the nut to the fitting body, thread the nut onto the fitting as tightly as possible. Avoid using tools such as channel locks or similar as the nut and fitting can crack when under the amount of pressure these tools can apply.

Attaching the Fittings The backside of the holes must be cleaned and the glass must be ground flat so the nut of each fitting can draw the fitting flat and even against the pool wall. Using a circular sander or a grinding wheel (and with proper ventilation, as the airborne resin particulate is harsh), grind down and smooth out the perimeter of each hole, as shown in the photos. Treat the pool shell holes and through wall fittings for optional hydrotherapy jet suction or underwater lights in the same fashion and with the same steps (i.e. cut and grind hole in fiberglass shell, silicone bead, gaskets, silicone again, hand tighten fitting nut, etc.) as the WQS return fitting was just handled.

Attaching the Mounting Bolts

Once ground down and even, the appropriate through wall fittings can be installed in their respective holes. For the Water Quality System (WQS) return fitting, open the Fiberglass Endless Pool WQS plumbing parts kit, and remove the one through wall fitting (in plastic wrapper) and the cartridge tube of silicone. Unthread the nut from the fitting and remove the cork gasket and one of the rubber gaskets (discard the other) from the fitting body.

The bolts used to attach the Propulsion Housing to the fiberglass wall of the pool need to be carefully attached to the pool wall to keep the penetrations water tight and also support the weight of the Propulsion Housing. On each of the two stainless steel 3/8" x 2" bolts, place a large fender washer. Around the 3/8" hole drilled in the pool wall, apply a small bead of silicone to the back side of the pool shell, and feed the bold with washer through the holes as shown in the photos. Again working from inside the pool, apply a small bead of silicone around the opening through which the threaded bolts are protruding. Feed the rubber backed stainless washers over the bolts, with the rubber surface going against the pool wall. Thread one of the 3/8" jam nuts onto each of the bolts, and tighten them so that the bolt is held firmly in place by the pool wall, as shown in the photos. (Please refer to the bonding section before this step). Depending on the thickness of the fiberglass wall, it may appear that one bolt is protruding further through the pool wall than the other,

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but as long as they’re pulled tight against the pool wall, they are fine. The Propulsion Unit will hang on these bolts in a further step, but for now, the other 3/8" washer, lock washer, and other jam nut can be loosely threaded onto each of the protruding bolts for safekeeping.

the screw, squeezing out a bit of the silicone around its perimeter, and then thread the nut onto the screw. Don’t thread the nut on tightly until the propulsion unit has been mounted to the pool wall (in a later section), and its bonding wire is wrapped around this screw and sandwiched between the screw head and washer. On the outside of the pool shell, the bonding lug is to be connected to the rest of the pool's bonding grid using the provided length of #8 AWG copper wire*. *Additionally, the copper wire can be wrapped around the mounting bolts. Loosen the jam nuts (inside the pool) and push the mounting bolts back out of the pool. Wrap the bond wire around each bolt and retighten the jam nut.

Attaching Fittings for the Hydraulic Lines Refer to and follow all instructions on the included template, “Hole Template and Cutting Pattern for Mounting Propulsion Housing” when drilling or cutting the hole locations for the fittings through which the hydraulic lines will run. Once the holes for the two hydraulic lines have been cut, it may be necessary to clean the back side of the holes (as described in the section titled, Cutting the Holes). Following the same process that was previously used to install the WQS return fitting (covered in the section titled, Attaching the Fittings), locate the two fittings included in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Accessory Kit and install them on the pool shell. Once the fittings (through which the hydraulic lines will run) are installed in the pool wall, locate the PVC reducer bushings and black compression fittings in the Accessory Kit. Working from outside the pool shell, glue the bushing reducer into the back of each of the fittings. Make sure to apply PVC cleaner to both faces of the glue joint prior to gluing. Then, place Teflon sealant and tape onto the threads of each black compression fitting before threading each compression fitting into the back of the PVC reducer bushings.

Water Quality System Plumbing and Accessories Attaching the Heater/Controller The Heater/Controller comes attached to its mounting board. The mounting board is loosely attached to a PVC angle that has holes pre-drilled in it. Separate the PVC angle from the rest of the mounting assembly, and place it up against the bottom of the fiberglass return flange on the outside of the pool, so that the right end of the PVC angle is four inches to the left of the centerline of the left 3/8" bolt that was just attached to the pool wall. The PVC angle should be spaced away from the back of the pool wall so that the transformer box on the back of the Heater/Controller will just barely touch the pool wall. The PVC angle is then be attached to the bottom of the fiberglass flange using the provided 1.25" long stainless screws, as shown in the photos.

Bonding Lug Place one of the provided washers onto the 3/4" machine screw. While working inside the pool shell, insert the screw into the bonding lug screw hole (that was drilled by using the “Hole Template and Cutting Pattern for Mounting Propulsion Housing”) in the pool shell. Then, from outside the pool, squeeze a dab of silicone around the threads of the screw at its hole opening. Place the bonding lug and the other washer over 5

Do not attach the PVC angle tightly to the top flange, because any uneven spots in the top flange will cause the angle piece to twist, making it difficult to align the holes in the mounting board with the holes in the angle piece. However once the mounting board has been attached to the PVC angle, the screws can be

tightened to prevent the assembly from swinging against the pool wall. The bump out on the back of the assembly should now be resting against the pool wall, but a thin piece of the provided foam should be able to fit between the wall and the bump out.

Glue a 4-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into that elbow, and then fit (but don’t yet glue) a female slip x female slip elbow onto that nipple with its open end facing the pump. At the pump, first glue a 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the pump union. Then fit (but don’t yet glue) a female slip x female slip elbow onto that nipple with its open end facing the other elbow’s open end from the previous step. Glue another 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the open end of the elbow (at the pump), and then glue the ball valve into that nipple, with the handle facing up. A 1-1/2" tee needs to be glued in between the elbow and the ball valve. Cut two lengths of flexible PVC so that tee is in the approximate center between the elbow and the ball valve. Make sure to account for the sockets of the PVC fittings when measuring for these pipes. Once the pipes have been cut, glue them into either side of the tee. Then glue one end of this piping sub-assembly into the ball valve. Glue the other end into the elbow that was loosely attached to the elbow under the skimmer. Make sure that the opening of the tee is pointing down.

Attaching the Pump The small black circulating pump now needs to be attached to the Heater/Controller assembly before the rest of the plumbing can be completed. First, locate the Heater/Controller adapter and be sure that its “T” gasket is in place before attaching the adapter to the right end of the Heater/Controller. Hand tighten the union nut on the Heater/Controller to the adapter. Next, use a provided 2-1/4" long PVC pipe nipple and glue it into the heater controller adapter. Be sure that the union nut is on the union adapter (BEFORE gluing), and then glue the pump union adapter onto that nipple. Also, make sure that the pump union oring is seated in the union before securing the pump. Attach the pump to the pump union so that the main body of the pump is perpendicular to the heater controller and the rear of the pump is facing the pool shell as shown in the photos. The pump should be positioned so that there is enough room behind the pump to place another small piece of foam. The foam will help dampen any vibration against the pool wall caused by the pump. Finally, secure the second pump union on the other opening of the pump, again making sure that the union o-ring is in place before securing.

This plumbing assembly will now need to be permanently glued into the system. Pull this away from the pool. Each end will have to be glued into place simultaneously, forcing the connections to line up. Apply glue to each joint face (total of 4). Place one end onto the nipple at the bottom of the skimmer and then immediately secure the elbow onto the nipple at the pump. Again, make sure that the opening of the tee is facing down. Glue a short length of PVC pipe (approx. 2-1/4”) into the bottom of the tee. Then glue the check valve onto this short length of pipe. Make sure that the arrow on the check valve is facing up. Thread on the female slip x female pipe thread union onto the male threads of the suction assembly. Loosely place a male slip x female slip elbow into the union so that it is facing the bottom of the tee. Take a measurement between the check valve and the elbow of the suction fitting and cut a length of pipe to that length. Make sure to take into account the sockets of the fittings prior to cutting the pipe. Glue the pipe into the check valve first. Glue the elbow onto the pipe and then glue the elbow into the union that was attached to the suction fitting. CL

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Plumbing to Return Fitting Plumbing from the Skimmer to the Pump (without optional UV Sanitizer) Make sure to apply PVC cleaner to both sides of a glue joint prior to applying the PVC cement. Glue the 2" to 1-1/2" adapter to the bottom outlet of the skimmer. Glue a male slip x female slip elbow into the bottom of the adapter so that the elbow is facing away from the pool.

Locate the Heater/Controller adapter and be sure that its “T” gasket is in place before attaching the adapter to the left end of the Heater/Controller. Hand tighten the union nut on the Heater/Controller to the adapter. Avoid using tools such as channel locks or similar as the union nut can crack when under the amount of pressure these tools can apply. Glue a 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the adapter and then fit (but don’t yet glue) a female slip x female slip elbow into that pipe so that its open 6

end is facing downward. Then glue a 4-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the elbow, and glue another female slip x female slip elbow into the bottom of that nipple, with its open end facing towards the right.

the keypad and the bracket. Make sure that the bracket is placed over the two threaded studs on the back of the keypad. Once that is completed, thread and hand tighten the two wing nuts over the two threaded studs.

Now working from the return fitting that was previously installed in the pool wall (underneath the Heater/Controller), glue a male slip x female slip elbow into the fitting with its open end facing towards the left, and in the direction of the previous step’s elbow. Much like when plumbing from the skimmer to the pump in the previous section, this case includes a 13" long section of PVC flex

To install the keypad in a horizontal surface, simply cut the holes as described above, remove the adhesive protection, feed the cord into the hole, and firmly press on the surface of the keypad, as the adhesive tape will hold it securely in place.

Plumbing from the Skimmer to the Pump (with Optional UV Sanitizer) If the UV Sanitizer system has been purchased as an option, the required plumbing configuration will be different from the standard configuration. Additional PVC fittings have been provided to allow for the UV Sanitizer to be properly plumbed to the Fiberglass Endless Pool Water Quality System. Make sure to apply PVC cleaner to both sides of a glue joint prior to applying the PVC cement. First, glue the 2" to 1-1/2" adapter to the bottom outlet of the skimmer that was previously attached to the pool wall. All other plumbing joints in this configuration should be fit together dry without glue at first, and then glued together once it has been verified that all parts for the entire configuration fit together properly.

pipe that needs to be cut to fit between both of the elbows. Again be sure that the socket depths of both elbows have been accounted for prior to cutting the pipe. Then cut the pipe, and remove the elbow connection section that was previously only dry fit into the nipple at the Heater/Controller adapter. Now glue the pipe into the elbow that was just glued into the return fitting, and wait a few minutes to let the glue set. Finally, glue the elbow connection section at both elbows (that were dry fit previously) into their respective pipe nipples at the same time to prevent any crooked glue joints in the system.

Installing the Keypad The placement of the Heater/Controller keypad needs to be considered before any finish work is done around the pool. The keypad can be placed in the front wall of the Fiberglass Endless Pool and above the waterline. Ideally, it is installed in the pool coping or in pool’s vertical finished skirting or cabinetry. When picking a location for the keypad in your finish work, keep in mind that the keypad cord needs to plug in to the Heater/Controller, and therefore should not be located farther than the cord’s length away from the Heater/Controller. If the keypad needs to be located farther from the Heater/Controller than the cord length, please contact Endless Pools Customer Service to discuss a solution. At the desired location for the oval shaped keypad, drill two 1" diameter holes at 2-5/8" from center to center and use a jigsaw to cut between the holes to create an oval shaped hole into which the keypad can fit. If placing the keypad at the front of the pool, it is important to make sure that there is no external support structure or fiberglass flange on the outside of the pool that might be accidentally damaged while cutting the holes. To install the keypad on a vertical surface, first peel off the adhesive protection from the backside of the keypad and feed the keypad cord through the cutout. Firmly press the keypad into place and then slide the cord through the opening in the bracket. Push the bracket all the way up to the backside of the keypad, clamping the coping, skirting, or fiberglass in between

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Fit a male slip x female slip elbow into the bottom of the adapter so that the elbow’s opening is angled slightly away from the pool but it faces towards the pump. Cut the provided 9-1/2" PVC nipple into (2) lengths that are 3-5/8” long. Insert each of the 3-5/8" nipples into either end of the provided 1-1/2" tee. Insert one end of the tee sub-assembly into the elbow attached to the skimmer. Place a slip x slip elbow onto the opposite end of the sub assembly. Make sure that the open end of the elbow is facing up and the open end of the tee is facing down. Fit the included 4-1/2" PVC pipe nipple into the elbow, and then fit the ball valve with handle facing away from pool shell (but slightly towards the skimmer body) into that nipple. A 2-1/2" PVC pipe nipple fits into the open end of the ball valve, and then a male slip x female slip elbow is fit on that nipple so that it’s open-end faces away from the pool, which will connect to the UV Sanitizer. At the pump, the only plumbing that needs to be done is to glue a 2-1/4" PVC pipe nipple into the pump union. The UV Sanitizer should then be unwrapped from its packaging and fit horizontally into the rest of the assembled plumbing configuration with its cord facing towards the Heater/Controller. The unions on the UV Sanitizer should slip over the nipple (at the pump) and the street elbow (at the ball valve), and the unit should be plumbed so that it is above the 24" vertical clearance that is required at the front of the pool, as shown in the photos. Next, cut a 2-1/4" length of pipe off of the longest provided pipe. Push that into the bottom opening of the tee. Push the check valve onto the pipe connected to the tee. Make sure the arrow on the tee is facing up. Insert a male slip x female slip elbow into the suction fitting so that it is facing the skimmer. Insert a pipe into the check valve and take a measurement between the pipe and the elbow attached to the suction fitting. Cut a pipe to that length. Make sure to take into account the socket of the elbow when measuring. Place that pipe back into

the check valve and position an elbow on to the end of that pipe so that it is facing the suction fitting. Take a measurement between the two elbows, taking into account the socket of each elbow. Cut the remaining pipe to that length. When the entire system is dry fit and it has been verified that all parts for the entire configuration fit together properly, it is okay to then glue together all of the joints in the UV Sanitizer plumbing configuration.

Installing the Swim Propulsion Unit Assembling the Propulsion Housing 1 Carefully unpack the swim unit from its boxes. Make sure to remove any hardware packs from the boxes as well. The packaging can be collapsed and used as a protective surface upon which to assemble the Fastlane. The foam packing material can be used to wedge under the base to prevent it from tipping over. 2 Take care when handling or working with any of the stainless steel components of the swim unit. The ends can be sharp. The first step is to remove the two circular end caps from each side of the cylindrical base. There are 3 arced cover strips around the perimeter of the end cap. Unthread the nine screws that secure the cover strips (3 screws per cover strip). There will be a stainless steel wire connecting the end cap to the base. The wire can be disconnected to make assembly of the unit easier. If disconnected, the wire must be re-attached when re-assembled. Repeat this step for the other side of the stainless steel base. Carefully set each end cap aside (Fig 6.1). Repeat this process for the other side of the stainless steel base

Circular End Cap Arced Cover Strip

Optional Underwater Lights Please refer to and follow all instructions on the included drawing, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through Wall Fittings, Lights, and Jets Suction” for the hole locations (that were already cut in a previous step) to begin the installation of the optional underwater LED lights. Please refer to the Underwater Lights Supplemental Guide for additional information on installation and maintenance.

Remove these 9 screws

Bond Wire

Optional Hydrotherapy Jets Please refer to and follow all instructions on the included drawing, “Hole Cutting Pattern for Typical Through Wall Fittings, Lights, and Jets Suction” for the hole locations (that were already cut in a previous step) to begin the installation of the optional hydrotherapy jets. Please refer to the Fiberglass Endless Pool Hydrotherapy Jets Supplemental Guide for additional information on installation of the jet bodies, venturi suction, jet pump, and plumbing.

Screw securing bond wire to circular end cap

Fig. 6.1

Hydraulic Hoses

Installing the Isolation Cover Place the isolation cover over heater controller and the circulation pump. Use the provided screws to attach the cover to the heater controller mounting board through the slotted holes. Notches in the rear of the base for the hydraulic hoses

Fig. 6.2

3 Uncoil the two lengths of hydraulic hose that are attached to the cylindrical base. Make sure that the hoses are seated into their respective notches in the backside of the base (Fig 6.2). 4 Remove the throat from the upper housing. There are two screws on each side of the throat. Pull the throat off of the housing and set it aside. Pull the vertical water-conditioning grill up and out of the housing. Pull the horizontal grill out of

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its track and remove from the housing. Make sure to remove and discard the wood 2x4 spacer from the bottom of the housing before proceeding (Fig 6.3). Vertical Water Conditioning Grill

6 Use the provided stainless steel screws to attach the upper housing to the base. There will be 4 screws per side (total of 8). On each side of the housing, there will be 3 screws securing the upper housing to PVC motor mount support and 1 screw attaching the stainless steel reinforcing support to the housing just above the 3 previous screws (Fig 6.4B). 7 Carefully lay the Fastlane onto its front face. Run the hydraulic hoses up the back of the upper housing. The two hat channels will be placed over the hydraulic hoses. Make sure that the mounting hole in the end of the hat channel is facing up and that the bottom of the hat channel has been inserted into the notch in the cylindrical base. Use the provided 3/4" stainless steel screws to attach the hat channels to the upper housing. There will be eight screws per hat channel (Fig 6.5) .

Horizontal Water Conditioning Grill

Throat

Fig. 6.3

5 Carefully remove the protective film encasing the upper housing. Place the upper housing into the opening of the cylindrical base (Fig 6.4A). The hydraulic hoses connected to the base should be aligned with the back of the upper housing. Make sure that the stainless steel bonding wire attached to the motor mount is positioned inside of the upper housing. 3/4” Stainless Steel Screws x16

Fig. 6.5

6.8 Pull any excess hose out of the hat channel. Attach the two hoses to the top of the upper housing. There are 2 green hose clamps attached to the top of the housing. The screws that are securing the clamps to the housing will have to be removed in order to secure the hoses to the clamps (Fig 6.6).

Bond Wire

Green Hose Clamps

Fig. 6.4

Wall Mount Fastlane

Fig. 6.6

Repeat this process for the other side of the Fastlane

Fig. 6.4B

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1" Stainless Steel Screw (4 per side)

6.9 Slide the horizontal water-conditioning grill back into its track inside the housing. The horizontal grill is the wider of the two grills (Fig 6.7).

6.12 Slide the vertical water-conditioning grill back down into the housing (Fig 6.10).

Slide the Horizontal Grill back into place

Fig. 6.10 Fig. 6.7

10 Install the stainless steel grab bar to the upper housing using the provided stainless steel screws and lock nuts. Feed the stainless steel wire attached to the motor mount up through the horizontal grill. Then feed the wire up between two of the turning vanes. Place the stainless steel wire (from the motor mount in the base) around the bottom screw on the left side before tightening down on the nut. Place the second stainless steel wire (that exits the top rear of the upper housing) around another screw before tightening down on the nut.

13 Re-install the circular end caps. Make sure that the “smooth” surface of the end caps are facing out. If the stainless steel wire from the base to the end cap was removed, then it must be reattached at ths time. Align the end caps to the internal PVC supports so that the holes in the internal supports are aligned with holes in the end caps. Position the arced cover strips over the end caps, making sure to align the hole in the arced cover strips with the holes in the stainless end caps and the internal PVC supports. Install the nine screws (3 per cover strip) that were removed in step 6.2. Repeat for the remaining end cap (Fig 6.11).

Fig. 6.8

6.11 Reattach the throat (removed in step 4) to the upper housing. Again, there will be 2 screws on either side of the throat (Fig 6.9).

Repeat this process on the other side of the Fastlane

Fig. 6.11

14 Once the Fastlane is installed in the pool, place the housing lid onto the housing and use the provided screws to attach. There will be three screws per side, for a total of six (Fig 6.12).

Fig. 6.9 Fig. 6.12

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Mounting the Propulsion Housing to the Pool Wall

Fully Above Ground Fiberglass Endless Pool Details

Now that the Propulsion Housing has been assembled and attached to its base, it is time to hang the unit on the wall of the Fiberglass Endless Pool shell. There are two 3/8” mounting bolts that are protruding through the pool wall (the bolts were previously installed in the section titled, Attaching the Mounting Bolts), and there are two large holes in the top of the channels that run along the back of the Propulsion Housing. The holes in these channels are to be fit over the mounting bolts so that the Propulsion Housing can hang on these bolts.

The load of a standard depth Fiberglass Endless Pool with optional External Freestanding Frame is approximately 300 pounds per square foot. This makes it impractical to install the pool on a typical wood-frame structure without special construction techniques. Therefore, the preferred site for an aboveground installation is a level concrete slab. Pouring a reinforced concrete slab may involve:

Remove the 3/8" jam nut, lock washer, and flat washer that were loosely threaded onto each of the protruding bolts for safekeeping (in section titled, Attaching the Mounting Bolts) and set them aside. Using a helper, carefully hoist or carry the Propulsion Unit over the pool wall and set it upright on the floor of the pool so that the back of the unit is facing the front wall of the pool shell. Pulling the hydraulic lines away from the channels on the back of the Propulsion Unit so they do not interfere with the mounting bolts, lift the Unit and hang it on the bolts from the holes in channels. Once the Propulsion Unit is hanging from the bolts, place the flat washer and lock washer over the bolts, and then tighten the jam nuts onto the bolts.

• Selecting an appropriate sub-base material and desired thickness

• Leveling and possibly excavating a small part of the site

• Compacting that sub-base • Determining the slab dimensions and type of reinforcement to be used • Creating formwork • Placing reinforcement • Pouring the slab Many of these issues can be dependent upon soil or earth conditions on the site, so it is important to check with local codes to determine if your site (either alone, or with the slab or platform) is capable of supporting this load before proceeding. If your pool will be installed next to an existing wall, provide for at least 12" from the inner surface of the pool wall (at the top of the pool) to the existing wall. More clearance is needed for access to the plumbing for hydrotherapy jets if they are being installed above the bench on the rear wall of the pool. As detailed in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide, a space that is minimally 24" back from the inside wall of the pool by 24" down from the top flange of the pool is recommended at the front of the pool for water quality system plumbing access.

Now, working from outside the pool shell, remove the black compression nuts and rubber bushings from the black compression fittings that are threaded into the PVC reducer bushings and fittings (that were previously installed in the section titled, Attaching Fittings for the Hydraulic Lines”) in the pool shell. Then, from inside the pool and looking straight at the Propulsion Unit, feed the line that runs up the right side of the Propulsion Housing through the fitting on the left, and feed the line that runs up the left side of the Propulsion Housing through the fitting on the right. The hydraulic lines should cross over one another on top of the Propulsion Housing, and each should be secured to the lid of the Propulsion Housing using the green hose clamps that are already attached to the lid. Again, working from outside the pool shell with the hydraulic lines now fed through the fittings, take the rubber bushings (that were removed in the previous step) and squeeze them to fit over the metal fittings at the end of the hydraulic lines. Next, slide the black compression nuts over the fittings, and then slide the rubber bushings back into the compression nuts. Tighten the nuts on the compression fittings so that the hydraulic lines are squeezed by the rubber bushings. When the pool is set in place and ready to be connected to the Hydraulic Power Unit (HPU), an adapter will thread into the fittings at the ends of these hydraulic lines, and the adapter will thread into another set of hydraulic lines that will run back to the HPU. 11

Fully and Partially In-Ground Fiberglass Endless Pool Details A partially in-ground Endless Pool should extend out of the ground no more than 18" without the optional structural bracing. Do not install a Fiberglass Endless Pool (without the optional External Freestanding Frame) more than 18" out of the ground, as this will compromise the structural stability of the pool’s walls, causing the fiberglass to crack.

Tools Required and (Possible) Necessary Equipment, supplied by others Backhoe, crane, or other means of lifting pool shell Vibratory compactor Manual tamper Shovels, rakes, picks Garden hose with 6' long 1/2" diameter PVC tube Carpenters level and 2x4 or edging for leveling/screeting Stakes and hammer to drive into the ground, 2x enough string for outside perimeter of pool Tape measure, drill, hole saw, wrenches, sockets

Materials Required Cubic yards of sand (depending on accuracy of base excavation) Concrete for collar Rebar to reinforce concrete collar Cubic yards of loose easily compacted backfill (amount depends on accuracy of excavation) NOTE: Be sure to thoroughly review and understand the section titled, Fiberglass Endless Pool General Installation Information (located at the beginning of this document) before proceeding any further with the pool project, as it contains basic information about how pool and excavated pit depth relate to finish work, drainage, site conditions, etc.

Lifting and Moving the Fiberglass Endless Pool Shell Pre-Planning Be sure to consider the weather conditions when planning the project. Heavy rains right before or immediately after digging the pit can compromise the walls and the stability of the bottom of the pit. If a sand or sub-base material is placed in the pit and it rains before the pool is set, the stability of the sub-base can be disturbed. Additionally, it is dangerous to attempt to lift the pool into place if weather conditions include rain or wind, and the pool should not be set in the ground and kept unfilled or unfinished either. Heavy rains may lead to standing water in the bottom of the pit. Such a condition can float the pool out of the pit, and also ruin the sub-base.

Site Preparation Preparing to Dig Once the final elevation of the pool has been decided upon, the site needs to be prepared for excavation. First, a footprint of the pool needs to be painted on the site so that a visual perimeter of where the pool will be located is clearly shown. The next step is to pound stakes into the ground around (outside of) the perimeter of the footprint that was painted on the ground. The tops of the stakes need to be higher than what will be the final elevation of all pool and finish work (including pool, coping, decking, etc.). Tie a string around the perimeter of the stakes at this final elevation height. From the elevation of this string, subtract the thicknesses of any finish work, height of pool and thickness of sand base to determine the depth of the hole that needs to be excavated. Depending on local soil conditions, it may be necessary to dig slightly deeper to include a sub-base underneath the compacted sand (if unsure of this, find a local contractor, excavator, civil engineer, or someone who has experience with local soil conditions). It is important to BE CERTAIN that the depth of the hole is not going to go beneath the top of the water table. If it is, the scope of the project needs to be changed significantly to prevent groundwater from floating the pool out of the ground. Additionally, it is critical to remember to notify the local onecall service a number of days in advance of the planned excavation to give them time to schedule a visit and assess the site.

Digging the Pit Once the necessary pit depth has been determined, and the onecall service has been notified and they have verified that there are no utilities running through the proposed location, it is time to start excavating. Ideally, the pit should only be over dug by about six inches on all sides of the pool shell (a total over dig of one foot in length and width each direction). An exception for the six inches should be taken when considering the front of the pool where an access vault must be maintained for the Water Quality System on fully in-ground installations. The vault dimensions should be 24" down from the top flange of the pool shell and 24" back from the water’s edge, and should be as long as the pool is wide. Illustrations and details of this can be found in the Fiberglass Endless Pool Planning Guide. Work back from the elevation of the string that is tied around the stakes to determine how deep the remainder of the pit needs to be excavated.

Planning the Sub-Base After the pit has been dug, it is very important to accurately lay the sand base so that it will adequately support the pool for its lifespan. Although sand is the most common material used for backfill, other materials such as a washed sand backfill, flowable fill, pea gravel or other easily compacted aggregate can be used as well. Depending on soil conditions and the accuracy of the dig, a 2" to 4" layer of sand spread over the pool’s footprint is often adequate. The purpose of the sand is to provide a level base on which the pool will sit, to equalize any discrepancies in the elevation of the pit and to protect the bottom of the pool (by preventing any sharp objects such as rocks or roots from damaging it). For the Fiberglass Endless Pool, the required volume of material to accomplish this equates to no more than three cubic yards, and can easily be ordered from a local landscaper, garden center, quarry, or similar type of facility.

Laying the Sand in the Pit Be sure that no loose debris remains around the perimeter of the pit opening or in the walls of the excavated pit. In the bottom of the pit, it is important to pound stakes into the ground again, similar to what was done around the perimeter of the pool earlier. This time, the string will help determine the top elevation of the sand base material (the elevation of the bottom of the pool) in the pit. The accuracy of the uniform thickness of sand base (once it is spread out) will be dependent upon the precision of the excavation. It is acceptable for the sand to have different thicknesses throughout the footprint, but sand must cover the entire area of the pool’s footprint. The sand in this footprint area must be compacted (a walk-behind vibratory plate compactor can be used) and then screeded level to the strings after compaction. It is possible that more sand may be required after the initial compaction in order to bring the thickness of the sand up to the level of the strings. A shovel, a straight piece of edging or a 2x4 (preferably the width of the pool), and a carpenter’s level are all that should be required to screed the sand properly. Be sure to REMOVE THE STAKES and string after the sand pad is compacted and determined to be level. Double check to see that there is no debris that can fall back into the pit once the sand pad has been prepared.÷

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Lifting the Pool Caution about Weather Conditions Once all of the necessary plumbing and preparations have been made, the pool can be lifted into place. Do not attempt to crane pool into place in windy conditions. Additionally, it is important to be sure that there is no water pooling in the pool shell as this can shift, making the pool unstable and harder to transport.

Lifting / Hoisting Preparations It is critical to use each of the chain lengths (found around the perimeter of the pool shell’s top flange) as lift points when moving the Fiberglass Endless Pool. These chains that have been glassed into the pool shell’s to be used as connection points for lifting the pool. Clevis pins or D-shackles and webbing, sling straps, or rope of the appropriate thickness can be attached to these chain links to lift the pool in the air, and guide ropes can also be tied to these locations so that they can be used to maneuver the pool once it is suspended in the air. It is easier, and more importantly, safer, to use guide ropes than to push on the pool body when it is suspended. Depending on the type of lifting machine and its method of hoisting, spreader bars may also be needed to prevent the rope or webbing from excessively pulling the side walls of the pool inward, potentially overstressing the fiberglass shell and causing it to crack. Always plan the pool shell’s travel path in the air before lifting, try to minimize the number of obstacles that it will need to clear while in the air, and always avoid lifting the pool shell over anyone’s head while moving it through the air. It is critical to begin by lifting the pool very slowly and checking the straps or ropes to be sure that they are securely holding the pool body.

Lifting / Craning the Pool into Place Once sure that all straps are properly in place, lift the pool and slowly lower it into the prepared pit or onto the existing slab or platform. Be careful not to have the pool bump or get snagged on the sides of the excavated pit. Slowly set the pool in its desired location, but do not disconnect the straps or ropes without verifying that the pool is level. Once the pool is set and resting in place (with no tension in any of the straps), use a surveyor’s transit and rod (if available) to verify that the elevation is the same for all four corners of the pool. If that equipment is unavailable, it is possible to accomplish the same result using stakes in the ground with string tied between them, a carpenter’s level (longer is better) and a tape measure. Set the string level between the stakes, and use the tape to measure down from the strings to the top of the fiberglass flange, and if necessary, make the appropriate adjustments (as detailed in the section titled, Setting and Leveling the Pool in the Pit) so that the pool is set in place and resting level. The straps or ropes (and if used, spreader bars) should only be disconnected from the lift points, and the crane operator can released from the site only when certain that all corners of the pool are level, and that the shell is in its exact desired location.

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Setting and Leveling the Pool in the Pit If one corner of the pool shell is too high, it can be lowered by having a person climb into the pool and gently jump up and down in the corner. This will compress the sand underneath that corner, hopefully leveling the corner that was too high. It is better to attempt to do this in small increments while checking the elevation frequently. If the corner that was too high then becomes too low, the entire shell will need to be raised and more sand will need to be added underneath that same corner. If one corner starts out too low, more sand must be added underneath the pool in that area to provide more support to that low corner. For some cases where the height difference is off by a dimension of less than one inch, the corner of the pool can be lifted slightly (with a lever and fulcrum or a jack) and more sand can be poured down the side of the pool and washed underneath that part of the pool shell with a hose. Refer to the section titled, Backfilling the Voids for more information on how to use a hose to wash the sand into place. For cases where the height difference is off by a dimension greater than one inch, the pool will likely need to be lifted from the pit and more sand added with a shovel. Similarly, if one or more corners are too high and gently jumping in the corners is not enough to compress the sand and level the corners, the pool will need to be removed from the pit to allow a worker to get in the hole to either rake or remove some sand. Once the corners are level, set the pool shell in place and walk around the bottom of the pool shell to feel any areas where the floor has some bounce or spring to it. These areas, when compressed by a person’s weight, should rest on the sand sub-base and feel solid. The fiberglass bottom of the shell should never feel unsupported when it is compressed under a person’s weight. If that is ever the case, be sure to add extra sand underneath to support that area. Only disconnect the lifting / hoisting mechanisms from the lift points and release the crane operator from the site when certain that the pool shell is in its exact desired location, all corners of the pool are level, and there are no unsupported voids underneath the shell.

Filling and Backfilling Around the Pool Backfilling Before starting to backfill the pool shell and fill it with water, it is important to verify that no plumbing parts were damaged while moving the pool. As the pool fills, the water level should be kept approximately one foot above the level of the compacted backfill outside the pool wall. One reason why the pool must be filled ahead of the backfill is that, in the event of rain after the pool is set in the place, the ground water around and underneath the pool may be enough to float the pool out of place. By keeping the pool water level higher than the backfill level, the pool water level is also kept higher than the potential ground water level, thus preventing the shell from floating out of the ground and causing a major inconvenience to deal with now that crane is no longer on site. Another reason to have the pool filled ahead of the backfill is that if the backfill were compacted above the pool water level, there would be no water pressure to prevent the pool’s walls from bowing inward from the pressure of the backfill. The reason it is important to compact the backfill is that the pool water exerts a large amount of hydrostatic pressure on the pool walls,

and that pressure would cause the walls to bulge outward if they were unsupported. Bulging pool walls can force the top flange to bend and possibly compromise the structural stability of the pool, causing the fiberglass to crack. In order to prevent this from happening, the compacted backfill must be capable of withstanding the hydrostatic pressure that the water exerts on the pool’s walls.

Backfilling the Voids Clean and loose fill that is easily compacted (sand) should be used to backfill the pool in the pit. A vibratory compactor or a plate compactor can be used to achieve the desired compacted conditions. Sometimes the loose earth (from when the pit was excavated) can be used for backfill, but often it is not the correct soil type. It may be necessary to consult with a civil engineer or landscape architect to determine if it can be used. Alternatively, pea-gravel type sand will likely suffice for this purpose. Depending on the negative cavities created by features in the pool (such as stairs, benches, etc.), extra sand may be needed for the job and should be ordered ahead of time to avoid delays. The sand can be washed into the difficult to reach areas using a garden hose attached to a narrow piece of PVC pipe. Ideally, enough water would be used for this purpose so that there is more than a trickle coming from the PVC pipe, but not so much that water is visibly pooling on top of the sand. There should be enough water to create a “soupy looking” sand mixture. The pipe can be rammed into the sand, and the water can help the sand flow into those difficult to reach cavities. Also, the end of a 2x4 can be used to tamp the soil or sand in places where a compactor cannot be used. It is important that the void underneath the stairs be fully backfilled.

Project Completion If the pool is fully in-ground, a reinforced concrete collar should be poured around the top flange of the pool. Make sure that the concrete flows underneath and around the edges of the top flange of the pool to ensure maximum strength. If the pool is partially in-ground, then the collar should be poured around the pool so that it is flush with grade (and also no more than 18” below the top flange of the fiberglass). After the collar has cured, any additional plumbing work or desired decking, finish work, landscaping, etc. can be completed.

Note on Filling the Pool If filling the pool with water from a truck, it may be necessary to have the truck wait while the backfill is properly compacted around the perimeter of the shell. This is because the truck will likely be capable of filling the pool at a rate that is much faster than the rate at which one can backfill the voids around the perimeter of the pool (keeping the backfill one foot below the water level). If using a garden hose or some other low-pressure line to fill the pool, it is likely that the issue of filling too fast without backfill will not be a problem. Once the pool is filled please refer to the section titled, Operations and Maintenance User’s Guide at the end of this manual for more information on how to balance the water chemistry and maintain water quality over time.

Power Unit Assembly The power unit should be placed on a flat and level surface. If the power unit is to be placed outside, we recommend selecting our Outdoor Power Unit with Weather Guard to protect it against everyday elements. Whether placed indoors or outdoors, this is an air-cooled unit and must have ample ventilation. Therefore, a minimum of 12" of air spaced must be provided on all sides of the power unit. In addition, the power unit needs to be check periodically for maintenance and should be accessible. The power unit is heavy, cared should be taken when placing the power unit. Once the power unit is in place, connect the run hoses. The low-pressure hose, which red tape wrapped around the fitting, gets connected to the connection on the black fill cap. The high-pressure hose gets connected to the fitting on the highpressure manifold. Make sure that the power is turned off to the power unit. Remove the black fill cap and remove the oil filter by lifting it out of fill opening. Use the provided paper funnels and fill the reservoir to with in 2" of the top. Once filled, replace the oil filter and ensure that it is seated properly before putting the fill cap back on. If you have selected a longer run hose, we have provided extra fluid. In this case, turn the unit on and let it run for one minute to fill the run hoses. Turn the power off, remove the fill cap and oil filter, and add fluid as needed. Again, you want to fill the reservoir to within 2" of the top. The power unit controller comes equipped with an automatic timer shutting off the system 30 minutes after receiving its last command. Because the controller "remembers" the last speed at which is turned off, it will return to that same pace when it is turned back on.

Optional Antenna Extension Your Swim Unit remote control operates by radio waves. Should the hydraulic Power Unit be placed too far away from the Fiberglass Endless Pool, your remote control may not operate efficiently. To operate the current more effectively, please install the antenna remotely with the enclosed kit. A longer length of coaxial cable can be used if you move the antenna closer to your pool.

Parts List • 10' length of coaxial antenna cable • Coaxial grounding block (antenna mount)

Instructions • If the antenna is already installed, detach it from the upper left hand side of the Controller Box mounted on the foot of the motor. • Attach and finger-tighten the antenna cable. • Attach the coaxial grounding block (antenna mount) to the surface where the electrical disconnect box is mounted. • The antenna should be just above the height of the box so that the metal box does not block the radio waves for your remote control. NOTE: The antenna can be placed even closer to the pool by purchasing antenna cable from a local supplier. • Attach and finger-tighten the antenna to the upper end of the coaxial grounding block (antenna mount). 14

Hydraulic Hose Connections If your hydraulic hose is to be run underground, then both hoses should be run in conduit. The conduit should terminate at the space at the front of the pool. Your electrical whip can run through the same conduit. Install the long hydraulic hoses between the Power Unit and hydraulic hoses at the front of the pool. Endless Pools, Inc. supplies these hoses to the length specified. Often they are not shipped with the pool, as the exact length is unknown at the time of shipment. Please order these hoses a week before they are needed to allow shipment by UPS ground. Two hoses up to 25 feet in length are supplied at no additional charge. It is best to use hoses close to the length you need rather than simply going with the standard 25 feet. Lengths in excess of 25 feet cost $5 per foot, e.g. two 40 foot hoses cost 15 feet x $5 = $75. Remove the protective plugs and connect the 2 hydraulic hoses to the 2 ports on the Power Unit and tighten firmly. Do not overtighten. The hose connecting to the fill cap on the Power Unit is the return (low pressure) hose, which gets connected to the lowest hydraulic hose at the front panel. The high-pressure hose, which is connected to the fitting on blue high-pressure manifold, connects to the higher hose at the front of the pool. The hoses that go through the panels are a smaller diameter than your run hose, you will find adapter in the electrical whip box to make these connections. If the hoses you ordered are too short and you need longer hoses, call Customer Service. Extra care should be taken that these hoses are cushioned when they pass by anything that could reverberate. This will ensure a quieter installation. Use simple pipe insulation and clips for this purpose.

Wiring One 220 volt 30 amp GFCI circuit is all that is required to operate the Endless Pool. A minimum of 10AWG wire should be used for all field wiring. All connections should be made by a licensed electrician. Endless Pools will provide an electrical whip to connect the power unit controller to the heater controller poolside. We recommend that you have your electrician install a shut off within 5' of where you intend to place your power unit. You can have your electrician install this prior to your pool being delivered. Power is supplied to the system by connecting the existing whip on the power unit control box to the shut off installed by your electrician. Power the pool-side heater controller by connecting the whip supplied to both the power unit control box and the heater-controller through the appropriate knockouts in these respective units. Specifically, inside the power unit control box, connect the black wire to terminal R2 on the line (left) side of the contactor, connect the red wire to R3 on the load (right) side of the contactor, connect the green wire to the ground bus bar, and the white wire junctions with the white wire coming from the shut off using a wire nut. Connect the heater controller by attaching the black wire to the L1 terminal, the red wire to the L2 terminal, the white wire to the N terminal, and the green wire to the G terminal. If your electrical whip is to be run underground, then it should be run in conduit. The conduit should terminate at the space at the front of the pool. Your hydraulic hoses can run through the same conduit. Refer to the Wiring Diagram at the end of this book. 15

Bonding and Grounding All of the electrical equipment that we supply is UL or CSA approved and must be installed in accordance with local electric codes by a licensed local electrician. Bonding and Grounding is an important part of that process. All electrical components have bonding lugs and should be bonded together and to the steel pool panels, including the Swim Unit in the pool. A bonding conductor shall be solid copper not smaller than 8 AWG and may be insulated, covered or bare. If new construction is involved where reinforcing rods are installed in the concrete under or adjacent to the pool this should be included in the bonding circuit. Each of the pieces of equipment should be separately grounded.

Using your Swim Unit You are now ready to start up your Swim Unit. Remove the remote from the Controller Box on the hydraulic Power Unit and unwrap it. Press and hold the ON/OFF button to turn on the current. The Swim Unit features 52 incremental steps in speed. Press and release the FASTER button to increase the speed of the current one step at a time. Alternatively, press and continue to hold the FASTER button to ramp up the speed until the button is released or the maximum speed is achieved. Reduce the speed in the same manner using the SLOWER button. Turn off the current by again pressing the ON/OFF button. Because the Swim Unit “remembers” the speed at which it was turned off, it will return to the same speed when it is turned back on. NOTE: The circuit card on the hydraulic Power Unit is programmed to ramp the speed of the current down before completely shutting off and ramp the speed back up when turning the current it back on. The hydraulic Power Unit controller is equipped with an automatic timer shutting off the system thirty minutes after receiving its last command.

Operations and Maintenance User’s Guide Included with your Fiberglass Endless Pool are products to help with start-up and on-going maintenance. These include: (1) Container calcium hardness increaser (1) Container water clarifier (1) Container pH decreaser (1) Container pH increaser (1) Container total alkalinity increaser (1) Container vinyl cleaner (1) Test kit (1) Container stabilized chlorine (outdoor pools)

Overview The Fiberglass Endless Pool is a combination of several independent systems. The “swim current system” is comprised of a 16” propeller that rotates at variable speeds and is adjusted by remote control. The operation of the swim current system is described later in this start-up section. A second system maintains the water quality by circulating, filtering, heating, and purifying the water. This “Water Quality System” (WQS) is comprised of the pump, filter, and heater. The Hydrotherapy jets and a supplementary pump comprise a third system. Endless Pools will provide toll free technical support during the installation and start-up of your swimming machine. We encourage you to become familiar with the equipment and components, in order to properly maintain the pool.

Filling your Endless Pool Your Pool Water

stabilized chlorine source is more expensive, and it also requires the periodic testing for cyanuric acid levels. If the level gets too high, it can render the chlorine ineffective, and it may necessitate the partial draining of the pool in order to lower the levels.

As with any swimming pool, a Fiberglass Endless Pool requires water chemistry monitoring. The water quality system, which includes automated circulating, heating, and filtration, does most of the work for you. However, balancing and maintaining your pool water is essential to the life and health of your equipment.

Although some alternative Sanitization systems can be used with a Fiberglass Endless Pool, the following precautions must be followed:

Your Source of Water

• Under NO circumstances can salt chlorine-generating systems be used in a Fiberglass Endless Pool.

Endless Pools, Inc. recommends testing a sample of water before you begin to fill the pool. Doing so will give you an idea of how suitable your water source is for swimming pool use. Testing the water can be done by using your Taylor test kit. A local swimming pool supply store can also test your water at a minimal charge. Take a copy of the “Water Chemistry Testing Log” with you.

Well Water Certain geographic areas are high in mineral content. For pools where well water is to be the water source, strong consideration should be given to having water tanked in. Well water often has high iron, calcium, and mineral content which is not ideal for your swimming pool. If well water is the only available source, please call our Customer Service Department, or seek advice from a local pool store.

“Hard” Water and Water Softeners The phrase “hard” water refers to having high levels of calcium in the water. Many homes that have “hard” water will often have a water softener installed in their homes that lowers the level of calcium in the water. For ideal water conditions in a pool, the calcium hardness level should be between 180-250 ppm. Please call us to discuss your options if you have a water softener and/or high calcium in your water supply.

Oxidation and Chlorine Requirements Maintaining a minimum level of 0.5 ppm free chlorine in your pool at all times is necessary. Adding 1/2 cup of Clorox a day will add about 0.5 ppm of free chlorine to a standard sized pool. How quickly that chlorine is consumed depends upon water temperature, bather load, and the amount of direct sunlight the pool receives.

Chlorine Stabilizer and Outdoor Pools Your Taylor test kit comes equipped with testing procedures for cyanuric acid. Cyanuric acid is a chlorine stabilizer, meaning it protects chlorine from getting broken down by sunlight. If your pool is located outdoors, we recommend using the granular form of stabilized chlorine (Should have an active ingredient of sodium dichlor) instead of Clorox. Another option would be to supplement Clorox by adding cyanuric acid. Either method will necessitate testing for cyanuric acid every two weeks. These chemicals are readily available at any pool supply store.

Chlorine Stabilizer and Indoor Pools Many customers are sold a stabilized chlorine product for use in their indoor Endless Pool. Endless Pools would not recommend this practice, as Clorox bleach is ideal for this setting. Using a

Alternatives to Chlorine

• Bacquacil systems damage clear plastic products. Light lenses and pump strainer lids will crack. • Bromine can be used, but special attention must be paid to your pH levels • Please call Customer Service with any questions about alternate systems.

Pool and Equipment Start-Up The pool is full when the water level completely covers the honeycomb grills where the current is produced. A water level 1/2" or more lower than this can cause air to get pulled through the skimmer into the WQS plumbing lines. This can lead to problems with the filter, and can also cause your heater to work intermittently. A water level 1” or more higher than the top of the grills can lead to more water getting splashed out of the pool, as well as water weeping out of the air relief valve on the top of the skimmer body. Once the pool is full and all connections are made, the water quality system can be started. Your WQS pump is programmed to run continuously, meaning that your pool is receiving automated circulation and filtration (through the skimmer/filter) 24 hours a day. The temperature of your pool is controlled by the up and down keys on your keypad. Additional information about the operation of your WQS is available in the Supplemental Guide. Test your pool water now with the kit provided and/or take a sample of water to a local pool professional for testing. The test kit provided by Endless Pools tests for chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid. While the test kit may first seem intimidating, simply follow the instructions on the underside of the test kit lid. These instructions walk you through each of the tests step by step, and they are color coded with the appropriate reagent bottles to use for that test. When performing the water quality tests, write down your results on the log sheet provided at the end of this bulletin. We would strongly urge you to make copies of these blank logs for use in the future. Any observations, chemical additions, or actions taken should also be noted. While it may seem a bit tedious, all of this information will prove invaluable in the event of a water quality problem, or when you go to make similar adjustments to the water chemistry in the future. During this start-up period, which will last a few days, you will need to “Balance” the pool water by following the instructions listed below. After this initial start-up period, the testing procedures and emphasis are a little bit different, and they are explained in the “Maintaining your Endless Pool” instructions a few pages later in this bulletin.

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Floating Thermal Cover Endless Pools, Inc. provides a lightweight cover for the Fiberglass Endless Pool, if a retractable security cover has not been purchased. This cover floats on the water surface, insulating the pool while preventing evaporation. Consistent use of this cover will keep the water cleaner, save energy, and help control humidity. The cover should be completely removed from the water before the machine is used. Replacement covers are available from our Customer Service Department. The cover, once cut to size and installed on the PVC pipe, rolls out onto the water surface.

Balancing the Pool Water The following steps need to be followed when the pool is first filled, as well as anytime the pool is partially drained and refilled. They will walk you through testing and adjusting the factors affecting the “balance” of the water i.e., the water’s total alkalinity, pH and calcium hardness levels. The level of chlorine inside the pool, as long as it is not above 5ppm, will not significantly affect the following tests and procedures used to balance the pool water. Therefore, if there is no chlorine in the pool at this time, add some. Add 1-2 cups of liquid bleach (any brand is fine as long as it does not have an added scent to it) to an indoor pool. If you have an outdoor pool, add the appropriate amount of granules out of the bag of “stabilized” chlorine. Test for chlorine in a day or two and add more if necessary. 1) Balance Total Alkalinity (TA) Ideal reading: 100ppm Acceptable range: 80-120ppm Raise with: Sodium Bicarbonate (TA increaser) Lower with: Sodium Bisulfate (pH decreaser) Method of chemical application: • Adjusting the level of TA in the pool requires that the chemical be “slugged” i.e. pour chemical in four different spots around the pool with the water calm. Let the water remain calm until the next filtration cycle. • Retest TA and adjust again if necessary. • Add less chemical than you think is necessary to effect the desired change. Keep track of how much chemical it took to make that change. Notes: Many regions of the country and world will have water with a TA higher than our recommended range. In a lot of cases, it will be desirable to leave the TA alone as any adjustment to it will also tend to affect the pH. The TA is mainly serving as a buffer for the pH. If it is above 120ppm, but lower than 200-250ppm, leave the level alone. It will simply over-stabilize the pH, which is not a problem, especially if the pH is within range or close to being within range. If the TA is lower than our recommended range, though, we would recommend increasing it to at least 80ppm. Once again, the TA serves mainly as a buffer for the pH and if the TA is too low, the pH level in the pool can change very rapidly causing bather discomfort and damage to the pool and pool equipment. Once the TA is within a tolerable range, move on to adjusting the pH in the pool. You should find that the TA will be pretty

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slow to change—for this reason, test for it once a week as detailed in the “Maintenance and Use of your Fiberglass Endless Pool” instructions found later in this guide. 2) Balance pH Ideal reading: 7.5 Acceptable range: 7.4-7.8 Raise with: sodium carbonate (pH increaser) Lower with: sodium bisulfate (pH decreaser) Method of chemical application: • Measure out and pour your dosage of chemical directly into the swim current. Afterwards, make sure you wash some water on the propulsion housing to ensure that no granules are resting on the benches. Test and apply more chemical as necessary. Notes: It is very important to keep the pH within range. If the level is too low, severe damage can occur to the pool liner and the submerged hydraulic motor, and the pool equipment. If the level is too high, damage can occur to the liner, and it can make the water prone to “scaling,” when minerals and metals dissolved in the water will be dropped out of solution and on to the benches and liner. Having the pH too high or too low may cause bather discomfort in the form of eye or skin irritation. The pH will change slowly over the course of a week or two. The number of bathers and the type of chlorine used are just two factors that will cause the pH to change. For this reason, pH should be tested three times a week and adjusted as needed. See the “Maintenance and Use of your Endless Pool” instructions found later in this guide for further details. Once the pH is within range, move on to adjusting the calcium hardness. 3) Balance Calcium Hardness (CH) Ideal reading: 180ppm Acceptable range: 175-250ppm Raise with: calcium chloride (calcium hardness increaser) Lower with: water containing less calcium (softened water) Method of chemical application: • Fill a clean, five gallon bucket with pool water and dissolve the dosage of calcium into this water. Do not mix this solution with your hands. Pour the solution in to the swim current, and let the current circulate the water in the pool for a few minutes. Wait a few hours, test again, and add more calcium if necessary. Once again, always add less chemical than you think will be necessary to effect the desired change. Notes: As with TA, many regions will have higher CH than what is specified by our recommended range. If it is available, partially filling the pool with softened water will dilute the calcium content and essentially lower the CH level inside the pool. If softened water is unavailable, perhaps water tanked-in from an outside source would be the best option for you. If this not possible either, we would strongly suggest adding a “sequestering agent,” which can be purchased from any local swimming pool retail center. This chemical helps the water hold all of its dissolved materials in solution, including metals and calcium content. The main concern with having CH levels too high is that the calcium may deposit out of solution—a sequestering agent will help prevent this.

Calcium hardness will tend to slowly increase over time as water evaporates from the pool and leaves its calcium behind. Periodic testing of CH is detailed in the “Maintenance and Use of your Endless Pool” instructions below.

Maintenance and Use of Your Endless Pool We recommend getting into a routine that involves adding a measured amount of chlorine either after you swim or at the very least every other day. This measured amount depends on pool use. One person swimming every day for 30 minutes might add 1/2 cup of Clorox after each swim. This small amount should maintain the required 0.5 to 1.5 ppm chlorine residual. Heavier use and use by children generally requires more chlorine. Adding 1 cup of Clorox bleach to a standardsized Endless Pool raises the chlorine level by about 1 ppm. It is safe to swim in any pool where the chlorine level is between 0.5 to 3.0 ppm free chlorine.

Recommended Maintenance Schedule Daily: • Test for free chlorine (FC) after you swim, or at least a few times a week. Add chlorine to maintain FC levels between 0.5 - 1.5 ppm. As you become familiar with the chlorine demand for your pool, you will find that you may not have to test for chlorine as frequently in order to maintain a minimum level of 0.5ppm. Twice a week: • Check and adjust water level. Water should completely cover the honeycomb grill where the current is produced. Water 1/2” lower than this can create a choppy current and may cause your skimmer to draw air into the plumbing lines. Having the water level 1” or more higher that honey comb grill will cause more water to get splashed out of the pool, and may cause the air relief port on the top of the skimmer body to leak water. • Test for pH at least twice a week. Broadcast (i.e. pour chemical into current) pH increaser or pH decreaser to maintain levels between 7.4-7.8. Weekly: • Test for total alkalinity (TA) once a week. Slug (i.e. pour chemical in 4 spots around pool with water calm) TA increaser or pH decreaser to maintain levels between 80-120. If TA is too high, it is usually not necessary to decrease as it merely serves as a buffer for the pH and will not cause damage in the pool. • Test for total chlorine (TC) once a week. If the test for TC yields a result that is significantly higher than level of FC (i.e. the solution gets noticeably more pink) then you have a significant amount of combined chlorine (CC) in the pool water. Combined chlorine generates a heavy chlorine odor, and can cause bather discomfort in the form of eye and skin irritation. If you have significantly more total chlorine than you do free chlorine, then it is time to shock the pool (i.e. add enough chlorine to get the FC between 3-5ppm, but don’t swim until FC falls below 3ppm). Shocking the pool should burn off the combined chlorine.

Every two weeks: • Test for calcium hardness (CH) once every two weeks. Predissolve calcium hardness increaser (i.e. fill a 5-gallon bucket with pool water and dissolve calcium in bucket) then pour the solution into the current to keep levels between 175250 ppm. If CH is too high, it can only be decreased by adding water with less calcium (i.e. softened water). • If you have an outdoor pool, or if you use stabilized chlorine (i.e. sodium dichlor or sodium trichlor), test the cyanuric acid (CYA) level every two weeks. Maintain levels between 20-50 ppm. If CYA is above 80 ppm, the pool should be partially drained and refilled, or un-stabilized chlorine should be temporarily used in place of the stabilized. If CYA is above 100ppm, the pool should be partially drained and refilled. Every two months: • Remove and clean the filter cartridges that are located inside your skimmer. To access the filter, first remove the skimmer face plate by pulling straight up. Then remove the skimmer basket. Reach in and unthread the filter. The filter cartridge can be cleaned either by just rinsing it off or by using a filter-specific detergent. Once it has been cleaned, simply thread the filter back in the skimmer body and replace the skimmer basket and skimmer weir. After several uses, the cartridges will need to be replaced, and new filter cartridges can be purchased on our Customer Service website, myendlesspool.com. Every five years: • After five years of operation, we will send you a letter detailing our recommendation that the submerged hydraulic motor be changed. This procedure does require the pool to be drained to 6” in the standard-depth section of the pool. This may also be a convenient time to replace the propeller or front grill in the pool; a list of recommended and optional replacement parts is supplied with the tune-up letter. As Needed: • Clean the water line around the perimeter of the pool and the underside of the cover as needed. Body oils and mold may build up slowly in these areas and should be cleaned off periodically. • The spa wand we provided with your pool can be used to help remove any debris that has settled on the floor of the pool floor. If you have an outdoor pool, you may need to remove front grill (from where the swim current is generated) with a Phillips-head screwdriver and clean as necessary. Replace grill before restarting machine. The Endless Pool must not be operated with this front grill removed. If this front grill is damaged, call our Customer Service Department for a replacement. • If you happen to get cloudy water, or if the pool surfaces feels slippery, it likely means that you have algae in the pool. A vinyl liner pool brush and pole may be purchased in order to wipe down all the surfaces in the pool, Increasing free chlorine level temporarily to 5 ppm will help, as will maintaining the free chlorine level in the pool at 3 ppm until the water is clear. Test the chlorine level frequently during this time.

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Draining your Endless Pool 1) Disconnect electrical power to all pool equipment. 2) Begin to drain down pool water by placing a suitable sump pump in the pool, or by setting up a siphon using a garden hose. If using a siphon, two or more hoses may be used simultaneously in order to expedite the process. 3) When you are ready, refill the pool using a garden hose with a “bobby filter” on the end to screen out debris and fine sediment. If you do not have one of these filters, contact Endless Pools Customer Service. If you have high calcium content and/or high metal content in you area, you should also add some “sequestering agent” to the pool water to help prevent scaling/staining. Once again, if you do not have a bottle of this product, contact us and we will send one out to you. You may also be able to find both of these items at a local pool store. 4) The pool is full when the water completely covers the grill at the front of the pool. Reestablish electrical power to the pool equipment, and start balancing the pool water. Shock the pool to 3.0 ppm free chlorine. Turn on your WQS in order to get your new body of water filtered, circulated, and heated.

Winterizing Your Endless Pool An Endless Pool may be used year round, even in colder climates. If you will not be using the pool during the winter in an area where freezing is a problem, special consideration must be taken to protect the pool and ancillary equipment if either is located outside. If you have any questions regarding precautions to take against freezing, please call our Customer Service Department at (800) 910-2714.

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How to Swim in an Endless Pool Upon initial start up, you will find that the unit has been set to its lowest speed; which is a barely perceivable current. You will need to increase the speed. The swim current is turned on through the use of a remote control, which also adjusts the speed of the current faster or slower. When changing speed, you must press and hold the buttons on the remote, then wait a few seconds for the current to adjust. Our standard pool's top speed is roughly equivalent to a 1:08 100 yard pace -- a speed for expert swimmers only. Set the water speed at a comfortable level for your needs. Remember, since you don't have to turn in an Endless Pool, your workout is continuous and you will tire faster than when swimming laps in a traditional pool. To stop swimming, simply press the on/off button on the remote. If left running, the power unit will turn off automatically after thirty minutes and can be restarted by pressing the on/off button again. Once you have found an optimal speed for yourself, you may leave the system at that setting. The controller for the swim machine is designed with a “ramp-up” feature which forces the swim machine to start slowly, but will increase to the last setting at which someone swam. When you are first learning to swim in the swim current, it is often useful to allow yourself to drift back to the rear of the pool. Let your feet rest on the rear bench and then swim forward into position. By starting from the back, you can get a feel for just how much room you have. When swimming, center your outstretched arm about one foot from the front grill.

Keypad Functions and Troubleshooting series of compact full-function keypads for in.xe spa systems single pump

Smart winter mode indicator

Jet Pump indicator

Light indicator

Filter indicator

key 1

Keypad Functions

Light key

A built-in timer automatically turns pump off after 20 minutes, unless pump has been manually deactivated first. The “Pump 1” indicator lights up when Pump 1 is on. Light Key Press Light key to turn light on. Press a second time to turn light off. A built-in timer automatically turns light off after 2 hours, unless it has been manually deactivated first.

An internal hardware error has been detected in in.xe. Contact Customer Service.

HL AOH

Up/Down Keys Use Up or Down key to set desired water temperature. The temperature setting will be displayed for 5 seconds to confirm your new selection.

FLO

The “Set Point” icon indicates that the display shows the desired temperature, NOT the current water temperature!

OH

Press and hold Key 1 key for 5 secs to activate the Off mode. Quick press Key 1 key to reactivate the system before the expiration of the 30-minute delay. While the Off mode is engaged, the display will toggle between OFF and the water temperature.

Water temperature In a heating cycle, the system first generates water flow through the heater housing and the plumbing, in order to ensure accurate water temperature readings as well as avoiding heater activation in dry conditions. After verifying pump activation and taking a water temperature reading if required, the system automatically turns the heater on to reach and maintain water temperature at Set Point. The “Heater” indicator lights up when the heater is on. It flashes when there is a request for more heat but the heater has not yet started.

HL The system has shut the heater down because the temperature at the heater has reached 119°F (48°C). Do not enter the water! Remove the spa cover and allow the water to cool down, then shut power off and power your spa up again to reset the system. AOH Temperature inside the spa skirt is too high, causing the internal temperature in the in.xe to increase above normal limits. Open skirt and wait until error clears. FLO The system does not detect any water flow while the primary pump is running. Check and open water valves. Check for water level. Clean filter. If the problem persists, call Customer Service. Prr A problem is detected with the temperature probe.Call Customer Service.

Off Mode This mode allows you to stop all outputs for 30 minutes to perform a quick spa maintenance.

OFF

Down Key

Hr

The “Light” indicator lights up when light is on.

98

Up key

Troubleshooting Key 1 Press Key 1 key twice to turn the optional jet pump on. Press a third time to turn jets off.

98

Set Point indicator

98

The Quick Reference Card provides a quick overview of your spa’s main functions and the operations accessible with your digital control pad.

98

Heat indicator

UPL

OH The water temperature in the spa has reached 108°F (42°C). Do not enter the water! Remove the spa cover and allow the water to cool down to a lower temperature. Call Customer Service if problem persists. UPL No low level configuration software has been installed into the system. Call Customer Service.

Smart Winter Mode Our Smart Winter Mode protects your system from the cold by turning pumps on several times a day to prevent water from freezing in pipes. The “Smart Winter Mode” indicator lights up when the Smart Winter Mode is on.

Purge Cycles The system is programmed to automatically turn on the optional jet pump 4 times daily, for 60 seconds, in order to purge the plumbing lines and keep plumbing lines filtered clean. 20

Power Unit Electrical Wiring Schematic

FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL™ LIMITED WARRANTY ENDLESS POOLS, INC. WARRANTS TO THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER OF THE FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL MANUFACTURED BY US TO BE FREE FROM DEFECTS IN MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP UNDER NORMAL USE FOR TWO YEARS FROM PURCHASE. Our obligation under the warranty shall be limited to the repair or exchange (at our option) of any part or parts which may thus prove defective under normal use within two years from date of purchase by the original purchaser, and which our examination shall disclose to our satisfaction to be thus defective. All labor costs for removal and re-installation of the defective part and all freight charges shall be paid by the purchaser and will not be reimbursed by Endless Pools, Inc. This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied including the warranties of merchantability and fitness for use and of all other obligations or liabilities for all damages direct or consequential to person, property or business whether or not occasioned by our negligence, and we neither assume for us any other liability in connection with the sale of this Fiberglass Endless Pool. IN ADDITION, ENDLESS POOLS, INC. OFFERS A TEN-YEAR STRUCTURAL WARRANTY ON THE FIBERGLASS SHELL STRUCTURE. If the fiberglass shell should deteriorate beyond structural use in this ten-year period, we will repair or replace the component at our option after inspection of the defective shell. The structural warranty is voided when suitable drainage and proper exterior structural support is not provided. THE GEL-COAT SURFACE OF THE FIBERGLASS SHELL IS WARRANTED NOT TO SPLIT, BREAK, CRACK, BLISTER OR MILDEW FOR A PERIOD OF FIVE YEARS. This warranty does not include cosmetic damage or minor surface imperfections. THIS WARRANTY SHALL NOT APPLY TO THIS FIBERGLASS ENDLESS POOL OR ANY PART THEREOF, WHICH HAS BEEN SUBJECT TO SALT CHLORINE GENERATORS, ACCIDENT, NEGLIGENCE, FREEZING, IMPROPER INSTALLATION OR OPERATION, ALTERATION, ABUSE OR MISUSE. THIS INCLUDES, BUT IS NOT LIMITED TO, FLOW RESTRICTIONS OR OBSTRUCTIONS ON ALL WATER AND HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS AND NOT MAINTAINING PROPER WATER CHEMISTRY (pH level must be maintained between 7.4 and 7.8 and total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm. Total dissolved solids (TDS) must be no greater than 3,000 ppm). All orders are FOB Aston, PA. We will NOT be liable for any costs or losses due to changes in shipping schedules, or delivery times. It is the responsibility of the Customer to supply safe and proper site preparation, installation and operation for all Endless Pool Swimming Machines. This includes, but is not limited to, adequate drainage at any pool and/or equipment site, to control humidity, to post necessary safety signage and to ensure safe and proper use of all Endless Pool Swimming Machines. Customer shall be responsible for any and all building permits, fees, licenses, and authorizations necessary to comply with local building codes or requirements. Customer takes all responsibility for site preparation including, but not limited to, any slab or foundation. Any Endless Pools product installed above grade must be placed on a properly engineered structure, which is the responsibility of the customer. We make no warranty whatsoever in respect to accessories or parts not supplied by Endless Pools, Inc. directly. The term “original purchaser”, as used in this warranty, shall be deemed to mean the person for whom the Fiberglass Endless Pool was originally installed. We DO NOT warrant this machine to meet requirements of any safety code of any state, municipality, or other jurisdiction. Purchaser assumes all risk and liability whatsoever resulting from the use thereof. In order to claim this warrant, original purchaser must promptly notify our Customer Service Department in writing of the existence of the claim and then follow our written instructions regarding the procedures for remedying the defect. Endless Pools, Inc. shall not be responsible for cartage, transportation, removal and/or reinstallation labor or any other such costs relating to performance of the warranty. In the event any portion of this warranty shall be deemed unenforceable by a court of law, the remainder of this warranty shall remain in full force and effect as if the voided portion were never included. Prepaid returns of all Endless Pool products are accepted less a 10% restocking fee, up to 30 days from the date of purchase if undamaged and in its original shipping containers. Accessories, options and equipment that have been used are non-refundable. Before returning any product, you must call our Customer Service Department to receive proper return authorization.

Endless Pools, Inc., 1601 Dutton Mill Rd., Aston, PA 19014

800-910-2714

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Endless Pools, Inc. • 1601 Dutton Mill Rd • Aston, PA 19014-2931 800-910-2714 • 610-497-8693 fax • www.myendlesspool.com

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