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TRAIL SHOES ARE GOING LIGHTWEIGHT SEE P24

CLASSIC

COMEBACK

Hush Puppies and G.H. Bass walk into the 21st Century (Page 20)

ITHACA, NY PERMIT # 191

PAID PRSRT STD US POSTAGE

SPRING ’12 SHOESTRAVAGANZA THE BOOT BOOK RETAIL: KNOW YOUR APPS!

FOOTWEARINSIGHT.COM • JULY/AUGUST 2011

Editor in Chief Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878 Editor at Large Cara Griffin Art Director Francis Klaess

July/August 2011 A Special

Report to

THE BOOT

Associate Art Director Mary McGann

Footwear

Insight &

Sports Insight

• July/Au

WOR BOOTKS GEAR UP

Contributors Michael Jacobsen Mike Kennedy Nancy Ruhling Tim Sitek Emma Johnson

gust 2011

BOOK

2011 is the year the hard-wo of rkin good-looking g, , 24/7 uber boo t

PAGE 42

Publisher Jeff Nott [email protected] 516-305-4711

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Advertising

Photo: Frank James

oot brands are to the head working extra hard these days Georgia of its class. Boot’s to design words like When describ Diamond footwear “durable,” Trax that goes “dependable,” ing what wearer how do these are placing s want, they the boot “comfortable,” splashes use book illustrat words translate into of striking and “versat the standa insoles and es, the answer accent rd black and ile.” But 1. Custom outsoles? s are being brown lineup. colors in strategic As this edition Comfort fueled by 3. Is It a Shoe? spots or adding Right Out adjust the of a host of Is It a Boot? of the Box. boot to fit factors. colors to from a shoe. like a glove, Hi-tech feature better fit. A new genera No, It’s Super Boot. More brands and wider s allow the is deman Increasingly, tion of wearer toes are making ding a lighter, wearer to 2. Fashio you can’t s, used to women-specif and narrower heels more athletic this new n Puts Its tell a boot running the breed of provide a ic sizes and Best Foot look strut down world footwe for work and styles. in sneake Forward. ar to do double the 4. The Hi-Tec rs, Work boots to their retro catwalk, but they , even triple outdoor boots and h Track. aren’t exactly are getting expects roots or evokin duty both proprietary Boots now more stylish. ready for on and off systems. come fully g the wild, a Some are the job. Special linings provide loaded with wild West walking back comfort; (see story a plethora wick away slip-free on Page custom-like of patent moisture; lug pattern 35); others ed gel pads fit; and new s eat and cushio dirt; dials materials ns and rocker like ion-Ma s provid sk create e a full-proof waterproofing . – Nancy A. Ruhlin g

Jess Tendrick, Advertising Director [email protected] 201-236-6324 Beth Gordon [email protected] 949-293-1378 Jeff Gruenhut [email protected] 404-467-9980 Troy Leonard [email protected] 352-624-1561 Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021 Production Michael Jacobsen 201-396-7005 [email protected] Business Manager Marianna Rukhvarger 516-305-4709 [email protected] Subscriptions store.formula4media.com

PO Box 23-1318 Great Neck, NY 11023 Phone: 516-305-4710 Fax: 516-305-4712 www.formula4media.com Formula4 Media Publications Sports Insight Footwear Insight Outdoor Insight Team Insight Textile Insight Running Insight Soccer Insight Footwear Insight® is a trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC, Great Neck, New York. ©2011 All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Footwear Insight is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Footwear Insight may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. Footwear Insight is published bi-monthly: Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/Oct; and Nov/Dec by Formula4 Media LLC. Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 (U.S. Funds) for surface mail. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318, Great Neck, NY 11023

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The New Balance 110 trail is a minimalist trail runner positioned as a shoe for those who aren’t quite ready for a fully barefoot-inspired experience.

06 THE FOOTWEAR EYE Birkis’ ‘Really’ Cool Campaign; Merrell Ups the Bet on Barefoot; P2i’s British Invasion; More than Mukluks from the Great White North; Groupon: Not All That; Spira’s Comeback Player 14 Retail: Tapping Mobile Apps Every four seconds one child is born and 15 mobile phones are sold. That means retailers have to upgrade their mobile marketing strategies today. 16 THE FOOTWEAR EVENT 2011 Seminars discussed consumer behavior and management tips for a changing workforce, while he expo was hopping! 20 Trends: ShoeLift Some shoes never go out pf style, as Hush Puppies & G.H. Bass remake history by walking into the 21st century.

24 Trail: Bright Lights Light, fast and flexible. Minimalism moves beyond the road and hits the trail. 31 Let There be Lifestyle Spring ’12 is full of color, function and life. 40 Less Shoe, More Sales The minimalist footwear movement has become a nationwide phenomenon, creating unprecedented buzz for the running industry. 58 Tongues Two old friends re-connect over an invention and a dream. Find out how they are working together again. On the cover: Hush Puppies’ Keepsake and Bozeman offer a new take on the classics. Photo by Frank James

TIME OUT | MARK SULLIVAN

Dreaming in Dollars It’s the middle of the summer and retailers are up to their eyes in sandal inventory, so what better time to think about fall and what the fourth-quarter will bring. I guess Q4 has been in my subconscious because I had a dream about Ugg the other night. It was sort of like “Inception,” except my hair is not as good as Leonardo DiCaprio’s. In my dream my friend Leslie who is the most anti-fashion, anticapitalistic person I know, bought a pair of Uggs. When I expressed my amazement (and a little happiness) that she had purchased the official shoe of Christmas, she retorted “Well I didn’t buy the same ones as everyone else, I got something different.” And therein is the rub for Leslie, for retailers, for all of us. It’s about something different. By the fourth quarter, it will be less than 12 months until the next presidential election. Cable TV talking heads will be blathering on about Candidate X and how polls show that Americans are afraid of the future and unsure about the economy and the consumer will be holding onto their wallets for dear life. But they will spend for something new and different: Ipads, Droid phones and shoes they don’t already have in their closets. The running shoe category has been on fire for the better part of the past eight years. There are lots of reasons for that, but succinctly put, it’s because the shoes have been good, the perfect fusion of performance, fashion and value. I don’t need to have any eerie dreams to be sure of that. The minimal-lightweight trend has legs and although the pundits say the growth has been fueled by consumer interest in good running form and natural foot movement, there are a few other factors at play, too. The growth in minimal footwear has coincided with the introduction of dramatic colors to running shoes. Athletic footwear companies that spend millions of dollars on product testing and athlete endorsements don’t like to hear that shoes are selling because they look good, but that’s the truth here. On an intellectual basis, people will tell you they married their spouse because they are kind, generous and make a good life partner. What they won’t tell you is what originally attracted them to this person is that they looked great naked. I love looking at consumer research that evaluates all the factors about why people buy things. Was it the color, the fit, the price, a recommendation from a friend or the salesperson? It’s all hogwash. Consumers buy things because it makes them feel good. That applies to stylish, cozy sheepskin boots and sleek looking running shoes that look great with jeans. And in an uncertain economy, consumers need to feel really good to spend their money. So for back-to-school and for the holiday season, consumers will spend. Carefully and selectively, sure, but shoes will be bought and some dreams will come true.

For those readers who can’t get enough of my wit, wisdom and insightful analysis, you can catch me almost weekly on my new blog. http://www.insideinsightblog.com/category/sullivans-insight/

The Footwear Eye

ADVERTISING

Birkis’ ‘Really’ Cool Campaign Birkis is rolling out a provocative new ad campaign around the theme of “active recovery.” The print campaign features athletes in action oriented settings wearing Birkis, which are highlighted with brightly colored arrows and the word “really?” The answer of course is “not really,” and the ads tout Birkis’ active recovery benefits of “immediate and lasting benefits underfoot—especially during your daily activities.” The ads also carry a QR smart phone link that will take users to the brand’s website where they can learn more. “We wanted creative that makes you look at it twice,” said Robert Mangione of Birkis. In addition to touting the notion of “active recovery,” Mangione says the campaign will also use “contemporary images that will differentiate us from other brands within the Birkenstock family of brands and other brands that tout recovery attributes.” In addition to the new ad campaign, the Birkis line has been updated to include styles that feature EVA and are “jean-friendly and wearable for daily activities,” Mangione said. The updates seem to be working. Finish Line has picked up the brand for its website, Mangione noted. “We see a great opportunity for the brand beyond the typical comfort stores.” The ad campaign will kick off in trade pubs and move into consumer by the end of the year. The campaign will also be featured in this summer’s edition of O-Ranger, the national parks guide, which has a distribution of more than six

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million copies. “It’s not a traditional ad vehicle for the brand,” Mangione told Footwear Insight, “and we like that it’s a great way to reach consumers who are out and active on their feet.”

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Merrell Ups the Bet on Barefoot

S

eth Cobb, Merrell’s GM, says he believes barefoot product can grow to be 20 percent of all sales in run specialty, more than double the eight percent share of market the category racked up in the first quarter of this year. “It’s the fastest growing category out there and I believe we’re only in the third inning of a nine-inning game,” Cobb told Footwear Insight. Merrell is betting strongly on that growth with an expanded barefoot collection, produced in collaboration with Vibram, the brand credited

Merrell’s assortment includes women, men, children’s, lifestyle, street/road and trail product.

6 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

with inventing the category. Merrell’s assortment includes women, men, children’s, lifestyle, street/road and trail product. “We believe this range can make the barefoot category accessible to more people,” Cobb said. “Consumers are finding real benefit in the product and we believe a broader range and more education about the category will help grow the business.” Merrell has created a special part of its website devoted to barefoot, http://www.merrell.com/US/en/Barefoot; created an I-phone app that teaches consumers how to run in the product and developed pointof-purchase materials that educate the consumer about the product. Merrell also has established a relationship with noted trainer Walt Reynolds, who will be speaking to retailers and consumers about “bareform running.” Cobb also said that Merrell has benefited from ‘listening’ to consumer feedback about barefoot running on numerous blogs, online forums and social media sites. “We’ve never felt closer to the consumer,” Cobb said. “As much as we thought we knew about what consumers wanted in shoes, we’re learning more.” Merrell’s move into these new categories was prompted by what company executives learned online, Cobb said. “Once people experience the feeling of barefoot and the tangible benefits it offers, they want it in other aspects of their lives, whether it’s casual use or standing up on a paddleboard. We believe what we’re seeing now is just scratching the surface.” l footwearinsight.com

The Footwear Eye

TECHNOLOGY

P2i’s British Invasion

Ion-Mask got its first high-profile introduction in footwear several years ago with Hi-Tec and Magnum

Coulson discovered a way of using special plasma (actually ionized gas) in a vacuum chamber to create a protective water-resistant nano-coating. The discovery was first used by the military to create uniforms that would protect its soldiers against chemical warfare agents. The first commercial uses have been in footwear, but testing in the apparel category is underway and Coulson believes that product will hit the market in the next 12-18 months. Coulson says one of the major attributes of the technology is that it’s a “whole shoe process.” “Traditional shoe components received water repellency treatments prior to assembly, but Ion-Mask treats entire finished shoes – even their stitching – with a quick, one-shot process.” Ion-Mask has been used in industrial shoes and service footwear used by doctors and nurses, but the athletic business is close to Coulson’s heart. When he spoke to Footwear Insight from his Oxfordshire UK headquarters, he was training for his first triathlon, a half Ironman.

P2i, the British-based technology company and makers of Ion-Mask, is expanding its American presence. The company, which derives about 25 percent of its revenue from the U.S. market, will soon hire a chief commercial officer for the American market that will oversee its sales team, which is currently based in New Hampshire. Ion-Mask got its first high-profile introduction in footwear several years ago with Hi-Tec and Magnum and has expanded its list of footwear partners to include Nike, Timberland, Adidas, Scott, Mizuno and K-Swiss, which use the technology in running shoes, hiking boots and golf shoes. Ion-Mask is a nano-coating protective layer that company executives describe as having one-one thousandth the thickness of a human hair. The coating can be applied to a variety of materials, including leather and synthetics, with no visible evidence and “imparts a vast range of functional properties including water and oil repellency, stain resistance, insect repellency and flame retardancy,” the company claims. P2i was spun out of the British Ministry of Defence in 2004 by Stephen Coulson, who was conducting Ph.D research at UK’s Durham University.

More than Mukluks from the Great White North Manitobah Mukluks is making its move in the American market. The brand is diversifying beyond the high furry boots from which the company takes its name and is expanding its American distribution. The brand is The Metis feature a custom designed outsole from Vibram

now being carried by a diverse range of retailers, including The Sundance Catalog, Urban Outfitters and cold weather doors of Nordstrom. The fiveyear-old company gets high marks for its authenticity. The product is made in Canada and has a high percentage of Aboriginals working in its factory who do hand stitching and bead work on the company’s moccasins. Manitobah, whose owner Sean McCormick is a descendent of Aboriginals, also donates thousands of dollars a year to job training for the local community.

8 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

footwearinsight.com

The Footwear Eye

INTERNET

Groupon: Not All That

In recent months, a blog post by a Portland, OR, café owner Jessie Burke went viral when she detailed her experience with a Groupon campaign, which she called “the single worst decision I have ever made as a business owner thus far.” Posies Bakery & Café’s Groupon experience, which put the business $8000 in debt, has been the rallying cry of many retailers and service providers who decry the popular email-based marketing vehicle and its knockoffs. The account was detailed in many outlets, including The Washington Post. While Groupon and its competitors like Living Social and Yipit has been considered by marketing experts and Wall Street as the sweetest business model in recent years, many retailers report otherwise. One is Big River Running, which has three locations in the St. Louis area and ran a Groupon promotion late summer of 2010. The deal went like this: Customers paid $25 for a $50 credit at Big River. They sold 3500, and Groupon and the retailer split the $25, 50-50. Additionally, Groupon charged Big River a two percent credit card processing fee on each transaction. While the coupons were on sale for one day, the retailer didn’t receive its full share

of the proceeds for another 90 days. Owner Matt Helbig said the financials left “a bitter taste in my mouth.” “They just made $45,000 in one day and they’re going to charge me another $2000 in credit card processing?” he said, adding that he found the policy of delayed payments frustrating. “They’re sitting on millions if not billions of dollars, making money on it for months,” he says. Further, Helbig joined other retailers who complain about customers who abuse the Groupon rules, which state only one groupon per customer, and no gifts. And while Big River successfully heeded Groupon’s detailed suggestions to beef up staff in preparation for an initial onslaught of customers following the promotion, retailers frequently bemoan the initial rush leaves them shorting both new and longtime customers when it came to attention and service. For customers who used groupons, Big River’s average ticket price increased from the normal $71 to $92 (before the groupon was deducted). About 400 of the groupons were never redeemed. All told, the store netted $28,000 on a little over $140,000 in sales. It is not clear how many of those sales

The web based discount craze is not always a bonanza for the retailers

10 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

were from new customers, but Helbig says, “It was quite a few.” Nonetheless, “We will most likely not do another groupon,” Helbig says. “We were in on it early and now feel like the fad has run its course. Businesses that run in Groupon now don’t seem to have the same reputation that ran in it eight and 10 months ago, and we don’t want our brand or our industry to earn a reputation as a place for big sales or discounts. We’d prefer to be known for our great customer service.” Kris Hartner, owner of Naperville Running Company in suburban Chicago, spoke to several athletic footwear retailers before deciding against signing on with Groupon. For one, the numbers didn’t work. Second, he worried his service-focused business would be tarnished. “One of my biggest issues is that it creates a coupon mentality,” he says. “If you need to liquidate seasonal apparel or you’re severely overstocked, it might make sense. But if you sell 4000 groupons and you’re inundated for several days, your employees are overworked, new customers are not having great experience because you’re overrun, and the math doesn’t work out.” Groupon spokesperson Chad Nason says that many points in the Groupon contract are negotiable, and that the young company which sold its first discount in November, 2008 is still evolving to best work with its customers. Nason adds that his company is willing to work with retailers to create a Groupon campaign which will both heighten awareness and be profitable. Changes could include increasing the percentage of the groupon the merchant receives, limiting the number sold, and changing the period for which the discount is valid, he said. “A lot of merchants think they’re supposed to make a ton of money on Groupon,” Nason says. “If we’re doing our job right, we absolutely make sure it is profitable, and a lot of our merchants make this happen. But this is a marketing expense. This is the most powerful local marketing tool available because you’re seeing the exact person who came into your store because of your marketing dollars.” Nason adds that 95 percent of Groupon’s merchants say they would run another promotion with the company, and the business is growing throughout the U.S. and globally. Kris Hartner, however, is skeptical about the business model in the face of Groupon’s impending IPO. “I think Grouopn should have taken the $6 billion when Google offered to buy it,” he says. “I don’t see a lot of people coming back.” — Emma Johnson

footwearinsight.com

The Footwear Eye

PEOPLE

Spira’s Comeback Player When Jim Tompkins retired from New Balance two years ago, he thought he was done with the footwear business. Then a friend from the shoe business introduced him to Andy Krasfur, the founder and CEO of Spira. Spira was a nine-year old company that has made some ripples in the athletic footwear business with what it called “wavespring technology.” The technology was comprised of lightweight springs that the company installed in the heel and forefoot of its shoes that Krasfur said increased energy return, reduced impact and decreased the risk of energy. The technology was developed by Krasfur’s brother, David, and the two initially launched the company together. But they had a disagreement which turned into a legal battle and Andy had to leave the business for all of 2006 before returning in 2007 after he borrowed $2 million to buy out his brother and Francis LeVert, another investor. The company struggled through all that tumult, but Tompkins, who first came on as a consultant and eventually as president and an investor, believes in the technology and the company’s future prospects. “That’s why I am here,” Tompkins told Footwear Insight. “When I came on board, Spira had some major fit and cosmetic

Jim Tompkins

issues, but we’ve worked through those.” Tompkins has also focused the company’s efforts on key categories and channels of distribution. When he started consulting, Spira was in a range of categories including work,

basketball, running and walking. Tompkins has whittled that down to walking and running and now has the brand targeting independent retailers, running specialty stores and specialty catalogers and e-tailers. Key accounts include Zappos, Hammacher Schlemmer, the Active Sports website and key Foot Solutions franchises. The next step in building distribution is to crack independent shoe stores, like those Tompkins worked with when he was at New Balance who opened single branded New Balance stores. “Those are the retailers who understand product and can help a brand like ours tell its story.” Tompkins admits Spira is under-distributed and would like to at least double its number of accounts in the next 18 months. The company has annual revenue of less than $10 million and Tompkins says Spira’s goal is to get into the $40 to $50 million annual revenue range within three to four years. The company has just shipped four new running shoes, including The Stinger and The Genesis X, and has additional models in the pipeline that will ship early next year. “The footwear business has been stale,” Tompkins said. “As an industry, we’re clutching at buzzwords like wellness and trying to make it work.” During tough economic times, retailers tend to reduce inventory and stand pat, Tompkins said, but “that’s the last thing the industry needs now. Retailers need to try new ideas. That’s where they have experienced success.” Tompkins, who made his reputation in the business as a design and development guy, believes Spira offers a different and viable technology, and has an opportunity to inject some fresh energy into the business. “Spira has a small, loyal cult following,” he said. “We just need to expand the cult.” l

Spring Ahead: New models for next season are aimed at helping Spira expand beyond its small, loyal cult following into more mainstream retail. The technology is comprised of lightweight springs that are installed in the heel and forefoot of its shoes that increases energy return.

12 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

footwearinsight.com

RETAIL

Many numbers are flying around about the growth of mobile, but this stat, attributed to The Economist, visually stands out in highlighting the importance of building a mobile marketing strategy for your store.

Tapping Mobile Apps Every four seconds one child is born and 15 mobile phones are sold. By Naomi Mannino

A

ccording to Nielsen, there are more than 82 million mobile phone web users in the U.S. and the June 2011 BIGresearch Consumer Intentions & Actions Survey found that 86.3 percent of shoppers surveyed research products online before heading to the store. In addition, Americans spend 2.7 hours per day using mobile devices for socializing, according to a new study of mobile internet use by Ruder Finn. Because of these trends, stores know they need to be accessible on mobile devices. “My customer’s use of these is still in its infancy but growing. I’ve already improved my website for mobile, fleshed out my Google Maps, Google Places and Yelp listing, developed a Facebook Page customers use and have even hired a social media person to take advantage of new ways to reach shoppers immediately on their mobile phones. It’s instant impulsive shopping I can and should control,” says Danny Wasserman, owner of Tip Top Shoes in New York City. In a search on the Google Maps app for “Vibram Five Finger Shoes, New York City” Tip Top Shoes popped up first on the list out of all the sporting goods and athletic shoe giants in New York City, so Wasserman is doing something right. You might be thinking you need to create an app of your own to compete. “You’re too small to stand out with your own mobile app, so don’t sink money into creating one,” says Vincent Schiavone, partner at Listen Logic, a company that advises large brands on social

App Name

marketing. “Instead, cash in on larger, proven apps people are already using on their mobile phones every day. Many are even free for retailer participation,” advises Schiavone. In the U.S., Nielsen research found that Facebook and Google Maps are the two top-used apps. Schiavone also advises that before embarking on any further paid mobile campaigns that retailers tap free participation Google apps “Businesses first: Claim your free place for each should be of your locations on Google Maps and periodically Google Places. Other popular apps used searching on smartphones already for socializing and checking and shopping are Foursquare, Yelp and themselves out.” two new ones Scvngr and Shopkick, all of which incorporate the local, social Sheri Koetting, MSLK and mobile aspects of shopping trends today. Sheri Koetting, co-founder and chief strategist of the Queens, NY-based design firm MSLK, agrees, “The cost of developing your own app can start at $30,000 and small local merchants will not find a good return. I advise investing in a smartphone enabled website, with deep links to specific pages like products and location, making it easy to be found online.” Want to get your marketing more mobile, social and local using apps? Check the chart! l

Cost

Benefits

Google

Free & Paid

Get Found Locally: The Google Suite of mobile business services is number one in importance if you want people to instantly find popular shoe products and specialties at your store instead of a competitor’s store.

Google Places and Google Maps are free, so claim your place for each store location. Add your website address, specialties, hot brands and lots of photos. Google Adwords is paid online and mobile advertising with many options as budget permits. Google’s huge distribution and new integration of Google Offers with Google Wallet provide an easier-than-ever toolbox for consumers to buy and redeem offers.

Foursquare

Free

Make It Social, Local & Mobile: Foursquare accomplishes all three aspects in one shopping app that’s free for retailers to participate in. As demonstrated by Jimmy Choo’s “CatchaChoo” Foursquare campaign, the potential to drive real people to a real store is now also very real.

Claim your free place for each store location in Foursquare. Create Specials and Badges, which are rewards and deals for loyal customers who “check in” as well as to draw shoppers who are near your location who can also see your deals. Check your Venue Stats to track foot traffic, deal popularity and more.

Facebook

Free & Paid

Cummunicate With Customers: Facebook is in a unique position to put its 157.2 million visitors to work as a powerful marketing tool and number one for customer engagement on a mobile phone for free. Once created, never ignore your Facebook Page, keep updating and adding new products, comments and photos. Promptly answer customer questions and complaints and be sure your service is top notch so people are sharing positively and not negatively.

Create a simple free Facebook Page with lots of photos of hot brands you sell and update it regularly with sales, events and new footwear trends. Next, claim your free page to Facebook Places (or add it) so shoppers can check in through the Facebook app on their mobile phone. Create Facebook Deals that automatically get shared with friends when purchased. Buy Facebook Ads to target local customers that include a “Like” link (Facebook Events include an “RSVP” link.) And, you can choose to pay only when people click (CPC) or when they see your ad (CPM).

Yelp

Free

Get Found And Reviewed: Another free app for retailers to use that more and more consumers are tapping before they visit a store to check out reviews.

Check your Yelp listing and be sure you have a complete listing for each location. If not, create one. Ask happy customers to write up a review. Monitor for negative reviews and answer to them whenever possible via the “add owner comment” button.

Shopkick

Under $100

Rewarding In-Store: Loyalty punch cards and wasted marketing dollars on customers who don’t visit the store are a thing of the past. This app rewards customers when in the store detected by a signal box for each store location that costs under $100 dollars.

Big retailers like Sports Authority and Target as well as Simon Property Group Malls are using this app to encourage repeat customers and reward shoppers with “Kicks” (special deals and rewards) just for walking into their stores and now smaller merchants can do the same. Small commissions apply for each deal purchased.

14 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

Features

footwearinsight.com

THE FOOTWEAR EVENT Key Topics for Attendees:

Consumer Behavior and Management Tips for

From left: Bart Yasso of Runner’s World shared insights on key “archetypes” among running consumers, while Kelly McDonald provided tips on how to manage multiple generations of employees in the same workplace (see related stories below). Jim Dion discussed pricing strategy for retailers; Walt Reynolds gave a lively demonstration on Bareform Running; Jim Falcone of Academy looks on during the Running MBA Program, while Molly O’Keefe of Runner’s World lays out the big picture on the growth in the running business.

Yasso of Runner’s World Paints Picture of Today’s Running Consumers Tells attendees that three distinct consumer types have different buying behaviors There is a great deal of discussion about “the Running consumer,” but today’s running market is actually made up of a number of different consumer types with very different needs, behaviors and shopping patterns. That was the message delivered by Bart Yasso of Runner’s World at The Footwear Event last month in Chicago. Yasso’s remarks came during a special Running MBA program, which sought to educate retailers in all different channels about the growth in running. Yasso’s presentation focused on three different consumer types: “the newbie,” the “working mom” and the “health and fitness runner.” The “newbie,” who Yasso identified by the name of Ned, is “generally motivated to take up running by a single event, whether it’s a doctor’s recommendation, a relationship breakup, a big birthday, or just a look in the mirror.” Yasso said this newcomer to the sport 16 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

is “likely to turn to a friend or peer for recommendations on shoes, where to shop and how to get started with training or routines.” “The newbie is least loyal in terms of brands or where they shop,” Yasso told the retailers in attendance. “As a result, the newbie may be timid and or intimidated when entering your store for the first time. They could be intimidated by a techy environment or a run specialty environment where everyone is skinny and a ‘real runner’. This is the shopper who truly is the deer in the headlights.” Yasso’s advice to retailers on serving the newbie: • Your first goal is to get the newbie into shoes and maybe a pair of shorts. • After that you can sell him or her anything and everything. • Likely to buy gimmicky product and experiment.

• No problem spending, especially at the beginning. • Great target for education and clinics. Product knowledge will create that “aha” moment which will spark greater zeal for running and spending on their new activity. Yasso spent a good deal of his presentation focused on the working mom runner, who he identified by the name Maureen. “Running is an important part of her life and ‘getting the run in’ is critical,” Yasso said. “She often runs before work when the sun is just coming up, so this woman is a prime consumer for reflective product.” Maureen and other working moms are also pressed for time, so her shopping time is limited and structured, Yasso said. “She is likely to shop for herself when she’s also shopping for her kids or husband so she’s as likely to shop in a full-line sports store as she is at run specialty.” Yasso said working moms are also prime apparel consumers and is likely to respond to stores that are easy to shop and do a good job merchandising apparel. Other key points about Maureen, according footwearinsight.com

a Changing Workforce

In addition to the well-attended educational sessions at The Footwear Event, the expo floor was teeming with activity throughout the attendees’ time in Chicago. Some of the on-going action from the show floor (from left to right): Talking minimalism at the New Balance booth; showing the line at Clarks; doing some strong shoe business at Dansko; Happy talk at the Alegria booth; comfort meets design at Birkenstock; and looking at cute boots for kids. The Footwear Event expo, which was held at Navy Pier, featured 55 brands in total.

to Yasso: • “Running provides a strong social connection with other women. They like to be goal oriented and training for a race most likely a half marathon is a likely goal.” • 59 percent of half marathoners are women. Half marathon is the fastest growing distance race in the country and halfs are good for working moms because they can “fit in” the training for that race. • “Mom” is an important part of working mom. Likely to participate in mother-daughter or mother-son races. Merchandising around pregnancy-maternity is an opportunity as well. The Health & Fitness Runner, who Yasso referred to as Dick and Jane, is the most likely to shop run specialty. This runner, Yasso said, engages in other activities and sports, but running is their primary activity. The health and fitness consumer runs four days a week, 20 miles a week, 11 months out of the year. “They run to “stay in shape, relieve stress, have fun” and “do something for myself,” Yasso said referring to RW research. Other significant information about this footwearinsight.com

runner, according to Yasso: • 54 percent are in training programs. • Three top “most likely to purchase” venues are run specialty, online and full-line sporting goods. • Three top influences: salesperson, other

runners and “article I read.” • Has three pair of shoes in current running rotation. • Top brands are: ASICS, Nike and New Balance. • Very influential to other runners. This is the runner Ned talks to when getting started.

Generational Differences in the Workplace Managing different age groups was a big topic How can four different generations work productively side-by-side in today’s workplace? That was the theme of “Come Together,” Kelly McDonald’s presentation at The Footwear Event. “This is the first time ever we’ve had four generations in the workforce at the same time,” McDonald said. “People are living longer, so they are exiting the workforce at a later age.” McDonald identified the four generations as: Matures; Boomers; Generation X; Generation Y. And she emphasized that the differences are not so much about age as they are about the generations that shaped them. “When you ask someone how Kennedy died, Matures and

Boomers will say ‘gunshot in Dallas.’ Gen Xers will say ‘plane crash over Martha’s Vineyard,’ and Gen Yers will say ‘Kennedy Who?’” Workers’ attitudes are shaped by two key factors, McDonald said. “Parenting style and information flow – the means by which people get information – go a long way toward impacting how people behave at work.” “The parents of Matures believed children should be seen and not heard, so that age group tends to have great respect for authority. Boomers were indulged and empowered by their parents, so they carry that attitude into the workplace. More than half of the Gen Xers July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 17

THE FOOTWEAR EVENT

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‘Digital Divide’ is the new Generation Gap.” “Matures grew up getting all their information from newspapers and the evening news,” McDonald explained. “And if they wanted to know more than that, they went to the library. This is a generation that was trained to listen and they bring that attitude to work.” Meanwhile, McDonald said boomers grew up watching TV and “watching themselves.” That made them believe in the “power of people working together.” As a result of this experience, she said this generation prefers face-to-face communication, not computer chats or conference calls. Gen X-ers grew up with computers and cell phones and the ability to tape TV shows and watch them whenever they wanted. “This generation got their information in a less controlled, but more private way. They are accustomed to being reached at all times. ” For Gen Y, McDonald pointed out that this

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1. Zachary Croft and Sonya Jones, Sikes Children’s Shoes. 2. Jimmy Hall, Dunham’s. 3. Kitty Bollinger and Diana Rowland, Dansko. 4. Sue and Larry Orischak, Foot Solutions Scottsdale 5. Jim Sheridan and Francee Schloesser Cool Comfort Shoes. 6. David and Loretta Mills, Comfortable Soles. 7. Rhonda Sawyer and Leah Hall of The Shoe Crate sandwich Curt Smith of Schnees. 8. Amy Beck, SmartWool and Mercedes Marchand, Sockwell. 9. Bill Golden, Golden Shoes and Meg Scheidler from Ahnu. 10. Curt Munson, Playmakers. 11. Amye Hendesron and Marty Anderson of Doctor Specified with Stuart Pressman of Sole-utions. 12. Rick Ravel, Karavel and Kitty Bollinger, Dankso. 13. Gary and Ellis Webber Shoe Gallery. 14. The Goldens of Golden Shoes. 15. Stanford Jennings, New Balance16. Benny Hopkins of Sound Feet. 17. Scott Cates and Donnette Ortel of Alegria. 18. Jeanette Riechers and Brenda Baril and Janice Abernathy and Jennifer Smith of Abbadabba. 19. Fit Flop wines on the boat cruise. 20. All aborad for the architectural cruise. 21. Ayelet Lax and Ari Levy, Naot. 22. Andy Krasfur, Spira, Molly O’Keefe and Bart Yasso, Runner’s World. 23. Brian Jones and Curt Munson, Playmakers. 24. Rob Williams, Wesley Shoe Coral. 25. Sam Hassan, The Tannery, Joseph Joseph, VIM, Tarek Hassak, The Tannery. 26. Barbara and Jack Jensen, Jensen’s. 27. Kevin and Deb Durkin, The Boot Shack 28. Jess Tendrick, Footwear Insight, Beth Gordon The Footwear Event. 29. Phil and Carol Wright, Vernon Powell Shoes and Conrad Strohacker of Conn’s Shoes; 30. Mollie and Kirk Brown from Buck’s Shoes with Mike Featherston of ICB. 31. Ted Gilverson of Drew Shoes. 32. Peter Zappala and Chris Cohen of New Balance.

come from divorced households, and they were the first generation of latchkey kids because both parents worked. As a result, they are very self reliant, but slow to trust others.” For Gen Y, McDonald said, many were raised by “Helicopter Parents,” who constantly hovered over their children “trying to be both their friends and agents.” “These kids have been raised to feel special all the time. They have little experience with frustration, failure and pain.” McDonald said “agent parents” of this generation often intercede on their children’s behalf. “I’ve heard stories about parents calling the bosses of their kids to negotiate salaries or complain when their kids were fired or disciplined.” How employees process information and use technology is another key difference among the generations that impacts workplace behavior. “Back the 1960s, people used to talk about “The Generation Gap,” McDonald said. “Today, the

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group grew up with computers in their bedrooms and the Internet at their disposal. “The digital world provides them with the anonymity and freedom to express their opinions about everything. They are extremely comfortable with technology and have been trained from an early age to solve problems and multi-task.” McDonald said that all age groups have strengths and weaknesses in the workplace and understanding their differences is key to making it all work. “A Boomer manager may question why a Gen Y employee wants to leave work early and go to a yoga class. That same employee is probably frustrated because his or her boss can’t open an attachment off an e-mail. They both have points, but if they can better understand where the other is coming from, they’ll have a better chance of working more productively together. It’s not that an y of these behaviors are right or wrong, they’re just different. l footwearinsight.com

We’re building a better footwear marketplace.

The Footwear Event . Designed with a fresh ®

blueprint featuring content with conversation. And commerce. We’re focused on the footwear channel and what makes the most sense for all those in it. Whether your a retailer, vendor or rep. And it’s working. 2011 Number of brands: 27% increase. 2011 Retail Attendance: 32% increase. Our blueprint? Easy access. Keynote speakers. Business sessions. Complimentary meals. Social gatherings. Expo hours. Better booth designs. W Hotel. Did we mention easy access?

Save the dates.

Experience the industry’s best event of the summer. The Footwear Event June 25-27, 2012 Navy Pier, Chicago

For more information, contact: Beth Gordon 949-293-1378 / [email protected] Mark Sullivan 973-304-1440 / [email protected]

® a registered trademark of The Footwear Event

The Footwear Event 2012 will feature an expanded Running MBA program. Exhibitor space is limited.

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TRENDS

Hush Puppies & G.H. Bass remake history by walking into the 21st century By Nancy A. Ruhling

Hush Puppies: When Hush Puppies casually walked onto the scene in 1958, its relaxed nonchalance, epitomized by brushed suede uppers and lightweight crepe soles, stuck out in the crowd of formal footwear. Its long history of success – by mid-1959, a million pair were sold, and today it’s still one of the top five largest global brands of casual footwear – is a hard act to follow.

Some shoes never go out of style. But it’s not because they never change. It’s because they know how to change to meet the stride of each new generation.

G.H. Bass’ Vanessa Part of the limited-edition collection, this classic Weejuns penny loafer with beef roll is for women.

20 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

G.H. Bass’ Linwood The classic Weejuns flat strap penny loafer, part of the limited edition, is for men.

Hush Puppies’ Bozeman This men’s wingtip pairs a khaki-washed suede and grey/blue distressed canvas to create a modern take on a classic.

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Photo: Frank James

ShoeLift

Remaking an iconic footwear brand is as tricky as walking a balance beam, because to be successful, original style and newfound features must be on equal footing. Hush Puppies and G.H. Bass, two of the more successful casual brands America has ever produced, recently looked to their history to give a contemporary lift to the popular nostalgic styles that have made them prime players in the industry for decades and to propel themselves into upscale markets. Here’s how they did it.

Which is why the brand treaded very carefully when it created a special collection to celebrate the half-century of the classic Hush Puppy, still one of its top-10 sellers. “Iconic brands have to evolve and be meaningful to the consumer,” says Dani Zizak, VP-global marketing for the brand, which sells more than 18 million pair per year around the world. “We really focused on fashion and consumer trends to pull together an iconic and classic collection that is designed to enhance our original product.” The Hush Puppies 1958 collection, which debuted for Fall 2010 with a lace-up Oxford and a slip-on, views the brand’s classic styles “through a current-day lens,” Zizak says. “This is not a brand repositioning, but we are evolving and willing to embrace the best parts of the brand. The collection, which retails for $89.90 to $150, is part of a strategy to move upmarket into the right specialty stores.

Hush Puppies’ Profile Slip On Made of tumbled, soft, environmentally tanned navy nubuck, this men’s shoe is a front runner for comfort.

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It’s a more premium product.” The collection features high-end materials, modern colors and advanced comfort features. “As we move forward, the 1958 collection is becoming bigger,” says Cory Haberman, VP-global product development. “From a design standpoint, it’s leading the ethos of our brand, it’s the skeleton of our architecture. We’re using the DNA of 1958 to expand our product and our architecture by applying its details to the broader collection.” The Spring/Summer 2012 women’s styles include metallic nubuck leather and brightly colored fabrics; wrapped leather and signature trapunto stitching and loafers that show their American spirit with red, white and blue checkered fabrics. The men’s styles feature surprising colors and materials, including washed and brushed suede and distressed and waxed leather. “We’re choosing leathers with a unique textural quality that, like

G.H. Bass’ Goshen For men, this limited-edition classic Weejuns penny loafer has a beef roll.

Hush Puppies’ Keepsake A new take on the classic Wayne, this women’s shoe has an upper of premium blue nubuck leather and a plaid fabric.

July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 21

TRENDS suede, are soft, supple and hold color well,” Haberman says. “Some almost have a nap to them like suede. Suede, which is what the original Hush Puppies were made of, is important, but it will be a smaller part of what we do.” Hand-worked, hand-applied treatments and embellishments emphasize the concept of an artisan finish, Haberman says, and are paired with a “relaxed style and a softer, more minimalistic construction that allows materials to be draped and ruched. Sometimes we don’t include linings.” Hush Puppies’ Reminisce

The 1958 collection, which Zizak reports is selling well around the world, is part of broader plan to raise the brand’s profile in America. “We’re well known in the United States,” she says, “but we want Hush Puppies to occupy the same plane here as it does on the global level, where it’s traded as a premium, quality brand. In the United States, Hush Puppies isn’t as well known for what it represents today.” Zizak says Hush Puppies will continue to collaborate with high-profile fashion designers like Anna Sui, who designed an Autumn/Winter 2011 collection that features a tall boot, a chukka, a lace-up, a wingtip, a tap shoe and a ghillie in richly colored “worry-free” suede. The brand also plans to create concept stores in the United States that will join the ranks of the more than 600 it has around the world. “The concept stores highlight the brand in its entirety,” Zizak says, adding that two were recently opened in Montreal and two will be added in the United Kingdom in the next 18 months to two years. “They educate and inform the consumer that there’s more than what they thought. Our story resonates with the consumer, it’s not just another collection of shoes.” As for the 1958 collection, Zizak reports that it’s been selling woofing well around the globe. “We’ll continue to focus on Hush Puppies 1958,” Zizak says. “It’s the heart and soul of the brand.” Hush Puppies’ Laze Toe Post FL

G.H. Bass & Co.: Three-quarters of a century ago, George Henry Bass, founder of G.H. Bass & Co., got the bright idea to create the penny loafer. In 1936, when this event occurred, there was nothing else like it on the market, and nobody knew that the humble hand-sewn Bass Weejun moccasin, based on the shoe worn by Norwegians, would become one of the brand’s – and the country’s – signature styles. Today, the Bass Weejun, which gets its name from the mash-up of “Norwegian-Injun,” refers to three styles -- the penny loafer, the drop tassel and the kilty tassel – that remain among the brand’s top three sellers. 22 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

Although they are the brand’s most iconic styles, they were not the first. George Henry Bass, a tannery owner, started out by making boots for Maine farmers in 1876. He didn’t introduce his first moccasin, modeled after the ones worn by Native American Indians, until 1906. To celebrate the Weejuns’ 2011 milestone, Harbor Wholesale Ltd., a licensee of Bass brand owner Phillips-Van Huesen Corp., has created a limited-edition collection of seven styles — four for women and three for men. Featuring premium leathers, fashionable colors and quality finishes, they retail for $109 to $119 and are available from August through the first quarter of 2012. “Our goal was to update the upper leather materials and bring forward the styling to make them more stylish while keeping the same shape and last,” says Jim McCormick, president of Bass Wholesale. “We wanted to make the leathers more relevant, foot-friendly and more flexible. Traditionally, people like to wear them without socks, and we didn’t want there to be a break-in period of a couple of weeks as there is with the original style.” The limited-edition collection features distressed and shiny brushoff leathers and new colors, including navy and a burgundy that’s close to the signature hue. Like the originals, they are hand sewn and feature the hammock-for-the-foot construction. Some even retain the “penny keeper” strap that was used in the 1940s and 1950s as a pocket for dimes, then the cost of a pay phone call. G.H. Bass’ Women’s Ventura

Bass also gave its other iconic styles – the buck shoe and saddle buck – new looks. The traditional tan or taupe suede with brick outsole has given way to an array of outsole colors that McCormick calls “fun.” “The response has been good even prior to the 75th anniversary,” he adds. “There are very few iconic American brands like Bass, and the consumer recognizes that we’re in a classic fashion trend so we fit right in.” To spread the word about the limited-edition collection, the brand, which is sold in major department stores and independents, including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys New York, Urban Outfitters and Free People, reintroduced itself to vendors. “We wanted to create a halo effect,” McCormick says. “We wanted everyone to know that we are back and we are relevant.” It also launched a major public relations initiative, focusing on getting coverage in major fashion magazines and onto the feet of celebrity movers and shakers. “We do not have paid endorsers,” McCormick says. “We got to them in various ways. Sometimes it was through their stylists; sometimes they just started wearing them on their own.” So it is that the footwear of Spirit of St. Louis aviator Charles Lindberg and pop superstar Michael Jackson has now found favor with MTV UK host Alexa Chung, Naya Rivera of “Glee,” Kelly Osborne, Ellen DeGeneres, Orlando Bloom, Michael Cera and Will Arnett. Bass also is looking to expand globally. Sold throughout Europe, Central and South America, Japan and South Africa, the brand is working on distribution in China. Collaborations also have been added. In Europe, Tommy Hilfiger stores are marketing a classic design that Bass sourced, and in the United States, Rachel Antonoff created a $100 to $150 women’s collection, and Mark McNairy developed a $100 to $150 line for men. “These moves have given the brand more validity and have allowed it to go upscale with distribution and to build a better, more efficient product,” McCormick says. l footwearinsight.com

TRAIL

Bright Lights Over the past year, we’ve seen minimalist

footwear break through with running consumers in a big way. And in the next 12 months, we’re likely to start seeing just how far-reaching the minimalist movement’s impact can be — beyond road running to footwear categories such as trail, multisport, hiking and more. Terms such as light, fast and flexible are not new to the trail category, but brands in this space are now also increasingly talking about some very “minimalist” types of design features such as “natural movement” and “minimizing heel drop.” “Minimalist is taking off in outdoor, absolutely,” says Chris Dunn, assistant footwear buyer at Backcountry.com. He notes that shoes selling extremely well at backcountry.com presently include the New Balance/110 Trail: A minimalist trail runner ideal for race day or a long training run, the 110 features a thin ROCKSTOP plate in the outsole that protects feet from punctures and disperses shock without sacrificing the natural running feel. The 110 is positioned as a shoe for those runners looking for a minimalist shoe but who aren’t quite ready for a fully barefoot-inspired running experience. SRP $79.95 Vasque/Rift: A trail ready multisport shoe, the Rift weighs in at less than 2 pounds, without sacrificing stability or resilience and functions as a lightweight approach shoe. A lace-to-toe lacing system ensures an ideal fit while the low-profile, triple density mid-sole supplies stability and comfort. SRP $120 Brooks/Pure Grit: Part of Brook’s new lightweight Pure Project line, the Pure Grit is a lightweight trail shoe with a hug-your-foot upper and pliable yet protective outsole. The one-piece outsole is concave and splays out with pressure. The upper foam conforms to the foot. SRP $100

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Merrell barefoot styles. “And we anticipate the New Balance Minimus, which are shipping soon, to do really well in the trail running category.” As minimalism moves beyond road running and lifestyle into trail, light hiking and multisport, the particular use of the product is still very much defined by the consumer. “It’s a style play for some people,” says Dunn. “I’d say only about 30 percent of the customers buying barefoot styles are actually running in them and the rest are wearing them mostly casually.” Merrell launched its barefoot styles to much publicity this past spring and sales have exceeded the company’s high expectations, according to Craig Throne, VP-global marketing at Merrell. Merrell is expanding its barefoot-inspired shoe offerings in Spring 2012 with new Barefoot Run road running shoes, Barefoot Train, for athletic training, Barefoot Water for water enthusiasts and Barefoot Life, for “a connected fit and feel in all steps of life.” “We launched from our strength, more of the outdoor angle with trail run and crossing over to road, which was more running product than we’ve been known for before,” says Throne. “Running started the whole minimalist movement. What attracted us to the whole concept was getting back to nature. But now people are all looking for product solutions beyond just running. Once you go minimal in running you don’t want to go back to a built up shoe, so people want footwear for beyond the run. We see people extending it into their everyday life — into other categories of footwear.”

Light, fast & flexible. Minimalism moves beyond the road and hits the trail. By Cara Griffin

Traditional outdoor brands such as Columbia are embracing the minimalist trend, too. Columbia’s Spring 2012 trail footwear line focuses on light weight, dryness and versatile trail performance. “Our goal is to be as meaningful and innovative in the outdoor footwear space as we are in the winter footwear space and the outdoor footwear space is all about the trail segment,” explains Mark Nenow, VP-global footwear merchandising at Columbia. “Minimalism is trending and that is about lightweight, flexible, and less is more… the paradigm is shifting away from heavy, overbuilt and inflexible footwear.” The customer is still leading the way in the minimalist movement, Merrell’s Throne believes, and brands are responding. “As we all keep making better product that meets needs beyond running more people will be likely to try the minimalist category,” says Throne. “People get into minimalism in different ways.” Acknowledging that Merrell is part of a large history in the industry “of a cushioned existence,” Throne notes that even outside of its barefoot line, Merrell’s shoes are now getting lighter and closer to the ground across the board. “We are surprised at how quickly consumers are embracing the change. I think the message is logical to people and consumers get it and understand the science behind it and that human form didn’t evolve to run on a big heel.” Of course, not every brand is touting minimal, and not every consumer is seeking it out. But light, fast and flexible are ruling the day for Spring 2012 in the trail footwear category. l

July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 25

TRAIL

Bright Lights

Inov-8/Terrafly The intermediate trail shoe, available in men’s (the 303) and women’s (the 277) versions, is ideal for road and hard packed trails. It is lightweight, with a more natural option for transitioning back and forth from road to trail. It has a 6 mm toe to heel differential and offers an anatomic fit. SRP $120

Saucony/Peregrine 2 The second edition of this trail blazing shoe is even more minimal in the upper. Using the same platform, it continues to be low profile and offer responsiveness and traction for uneven surfaces. The weight is 9.9 oz (men’s), 8.7 oz (women’s). SRP $100

Tecnica/Dragon XLite Designed as a multi-function shoe, the Dragon XLite offers the durability of a hiker, the precision and agility of an approach shoe and the sole of a running shoe. Going against the minimalist grain, Tecnica’s TRS XLite technology offers forward rolling motion and cushioning, but with a dual density outsole for maximum lightness underfoot. The semi-oversized platform with an effective lug pattern provides ample grip on varied surfaces. The tech is aimed to offer cushioning with great stability along with “best in class lightness.” SRP $115

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TRAIL

Bright Lights

Brands are now also increasingly talking about some very “minimalist” types of design features such as “natural movement” and “minimizing heel drop.”

Hi-Tec/Harmony Lite Designed for multisport use, the Harmony Lite has a premium, durable suede and mesh upper, bespoke Italian-designed webbing and a moisture-wicking lining. It also features an anti-odor, antimicrobial OrthoLite sock liner and contoured midsole with a Vibram outsole. SRP $100

Adidas/Terrex Solo This light, durable approach shoe has a high-traction outsole toe and coated midsole for durability. It also features adiPrene and a forefoot protection plate for safety and comfort on extreme approaches. The high abrasion mesh upper offers extra durability. SRP $110

GoLite/Dart Lite Engineered for trail running. the Dart Lite has a zero drop last — promoting a natural stride. It also has a fully breathable mesh and synthetic upper and a dual density EVA midsole. It features RockAbsorber Technology for protection, a PreciseFit System and a Sticky Gecko Sole for traction. SRP $110

ASICS/GEL-Fuji Racer This new style debuts as the lightest shoe in the ASICS trail line. It is designed to provide excellent fit with a breathable, lightweight upper and features a water drainage system in the outsole. SRP $110

As minimalism moves beyond road running and lifestyle into trail, light hiking and multisport, the particular use of the product is still very much defined by the consumer.

Kigo/drive The drive is a laced unisex shoe engineered for active wear including running, hiking, walking, cross fit, paddle and gym wear. Weighing in at four ounces with a zero drop outsole and a 2 mm flexible outsole, the barefoot-inspired shoe is flexible and superlight. SRP $91

Teva/ReForge ion-mask Part of Teva’s Mainline Collection, this multi-sport shoe caters to traditional outdoor enthusiasts who hike, kayak, camp, climb and raft. The ReForge is a men’sonly style. Water drains through the midsole’s Drain Frame channels and the ion-mask-treated upper shrugs off water droplets. SRP $130

Salomon/Synapse The Synapse is a natural motion hiking shoe that offers the protection and stability of a hiking shoe and the lightness and intuitive motion of a trail running shoe. The RX Motion ride technology includes multidirectional grip and natural motion. The Seamless Sensifit wraps the foot with a precise and secure fit. SRP $120

Scarpa/Spark At 9.5 oz, the Spark is Scarpa’s lightest trail-running shoe, a race-ready shoe embodying its “mountain minimal” concept of stripping things down to the basics yet providing an appropriate level of protection. Along with a low-profile midsole, the Spark employs a hightensile fabric forefoot strike plate and recycled content materials. SRP $115

Traditional outdoor brands such as Columbia are embracing the minimalist trend, too. Columbia’s Spring 2012 trail footwear line focuses on light weight, dryness and versatile trail performance.

Columbia/Powerdrain This lightweight, multi-use shoe has a combination mesh, TPU and EVA upper with a TPU cap overlay. Its Techlite midsole features drainage ports in the heel and forefoot and a fully drainable footbed. The outsole is siped with Omni-Grip wet grip rubber lugs for traction. SRP $95

28 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

Merrell/Rapid Glove Merrell is expanding its barefoot collection in Spring 2012 to include a variety of new running, training, lifestyle and water shoes. The Rapid Glove is a slip on with an adjustable in-step webbing strap for a precise fit.

Stem/Natural Origins Newcomer Stem Footwear makes zero drop minimalist shoes featuring outsoles made of a special air-injected rubber compound which is designed to offer a true barefoot experience. The thin and flexible outsole allows for optimum ground feel and unrestricted movement. The extra wide toebox and fit of the shoe accounts for the natural expansion of the foot upon ground contact.

ECCO/BIOM Trail The natural motion trail shoe’s anatomical last shape offers flexibility for foot muscle activation and ground adaption. The rubber outsole is rugged for perfect grip in any terrain. Available in a Yak and textile version. SRP $ 200 (leather) $175 (textile)

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The Dansko Volley printed canvas in red palm frond; Wrapped Professional in multi-stripe.

let there be

Lifestyle

Lifestyles come in all shapes and sizes. There are Lifestyles of The Rich and Famous. There are active lifestyles, rugged lifestyles, surf and beach lifestyles and there is everything in between. Spring ’12 footwear is the same way. There are fabulous fashionable (but comfortable) shoes. There is footwear appropriate for the hitting the trails or hanging around the campsite and there are other styles more suited for sitting in a coffee shop and contemplating the state of the universe, which could be better, but could also be far worse (kind of like the shoe business actually).

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July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 31

The Outdoor Lifestyle Spring ’12 is full of color, function and life.

JAMBU The Bath

JAMBU The Barefoot

JAMBU The Water Evo

CHACO The Updraft

ECCO BIOM Trail

K-SWISS Blade Max Glide Women’s

K-SWISS Blade Max Stable Men’s

PATAGONIA Cragmaster

KEEN The Turia Sandal

AHNU The Sausalito

MERRELL The Dash Glove

MERRELL The Rapid Glove

OBOZ The Mystic Low Women’s

MERRELL The Rollout

KEEN The Ambler Mesh

32 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

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The Stylish Lifestyle The feminine touch is evident in these sleek silhouettes.

DANSKO Dani in black burnished full grain

EARTHIES Amalfi

CUSHE The Clover

AETREX Peep Toes, Essence Collection

SANITA The Alberte

NAOT The Peace Mirror

SANITA The Naja

SANITA The Tetris

El Naturalista The Campos Ella

NAOT The Trovador

ALEGRIA The Tuscany

ALEGRIA The Kleo

EL NATURALISTA Cork Oak collection

MERRELL Evera

MEPHISTO The Prudy

Kalso Earth The Empire

34 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

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The Active, But Comfortable, Lifestyle On a boat, on a trail or in the office, good looks mix with performance.

Ahnu The Bryant Canvas

SANUK The Anthem

MEPHISTO The Cheston for men

MEPHISTO The Peria

SEBAGO Triggs Chukka

SEBAGO The Catch in Brown

SEBAGO The Spinnaker

WOLKY The Passion

CHACO The Vade

CUSHE The Evo

CHACO The Todhino

36 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

OBOZ The Beartooth

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The Toe-Showing Lifestyle Spring’s favorite silhouette allows toes to roam free.

ALEGRIA Cha-Cha

Alegria Baliwood

BIRKENSTOCK Granada Turquoise

BIRKENSTOCK Larissa Habana

PATAGONIA The Reflip

SANUK The Chubby

KEEN Emerald City Toe Wrap

MEPHISTO The Delfine

ORTHAHEEL From left: Aurora, Layla, Lola and Talia

38 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

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TREND INSIGHT How minimalism figures into the product mix

Less Shoe, More Sales

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he phone has been ringing off the hook at the Cinncinati based running shop Bob Ronker’s Running Spot, and about one in three of those calls are inquiries about minimalist or barefoot style running shoes, “specifically Vibram Five Fingers, but others like Newton, Merrell, Saucony, New Balance and Nike as well,” according to Chris Reis, store manager at the retailer’s O’Bryonville, OH location. Reis, who has been with the company for five years, believes that the recent attention garnered from the minimalist shoe movement is healthy for runners and the running industry alike, and he is not the only one who thinks so. The minimalist footwear movement has become a nationwide phenomenon, creating unprecedented buzz for the running industry. Boulder, CO based market research company, Leisure Trends Group, has tracked the emerging trend for several years, both in run specialty and at outdoor retail. LTG Retail Analyst Liz Stahura notes, “while Vibram, with its unique story and unmistakable design, has garnered a large share of media attention and retail sales, plenty of other brands have successfully entered the minimalist space in 2011.” According to the 2011 Leisure Trends Group Run Specialty RetailTRAK, so far in 2011, at least 19 brands are selling one or more minimalist shoe model at run specialty, up from about 10 last year at this time. Approximately 146 different minimal shoe styles (men’s, women’s, and junior versions are counted separately) have sold, up from about 70 last year at this time. In a year full of economic ups and downs, overall run specialty sales were

up 9 percent through the end of April, and Stahura credits buzz around minimalist shoes with spurring sales in an uncertain economy. “The attention around minimalist product is generating not only sales, but also more attention and conversation about running in general. And we believe it is driving new participants to the sport, and new shoppers into run specialty retail,” she explains. According to the RetailTRAK sales figures, minimalist shoes generated over $13 million in sales for the channel through the end of April, accounting for 8 percent of all shoes sold and nearly all of the 7% sales growth for the shoe category so far this year. Sales of minimalist shoes were up almost 300 percent, or $10 million from the same period in 2010, while all other shoes were up less than 1 percent, or about $1.2 million for the same period. “There is the potential for minimalist footwear to eat into sales from other types of shoes, but the overall category growth is still there,” states Stahura. The high demand keeps minimalist product moving out the door at a rapid pace and allows retailers to maintain better than average margin for the product. So far in 2011, the average margin for a minimalist shoe is 46 percent, three points above the average margin for all other shoes sold at run specialty retail (43 percent). While inventory was an issue for retailers last year with many retailers scrambling to get a hold of product, 2011 has seen significant inventory ramp up. At the end of April, inventory was up over 260 percent for minimalist, while dropping 2 percent for all other shoes. Minimalist sales kept pace with increased inventory; sell through was up three points to 68 percent for the

Minimalist Shoe Unit Sales

Units Sold at Running Specialty Retail 6,000

180

160 5,000

140

120

2011

(in thousands)

Inventory Units

4,000

Units Sold

100 3,000

80

2010

60

2,000

2009

2008

40 1,000

20

January 2008

40 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

April 2011

January

December

footwearinsight.com

Year to Date Run Specialty Shoes Sold Non-Minimalist / 1,749,885 (92%)

46.0%

Minimalist / 151,638 (8%)

period. Further proof that demand is keeping pace with supply: annualized turn jumped from 3.0 last year at this time to 3.7, representing a 25 percent increase. “The fact that retailers are seeing faster turns along with the significant increase in inventory suggests that demand was outpacing supply in 2010 and remains strong in 2011,” says Stahura. Reis agrees that the attention is bringing in new customers, and generating interest that reaches beyond their store’s existing customer base. “In many cases they are new to running or not runners at all. We also get calls from out of state, people asking us if we have specific styles or sizes.” While backlash due to misuse remains a concern, retailers and brands focus on educating their customers to minimize overuse injuries. “Everybody is pushing the education piece, says Reis. “It is almost a liability. I am not sending someone out the door in a pair of barefoot style shoes thinking that they can replace their existing shoes. We tell those that are starting out that these are a supplement to your other shoes — not your only shoes. They are not the only thing you should run in right away.” Stahura notes that while the minimalist frenzy may not last forever, its positive impact on the run specialty industry has far reaching potential. “We are looking at an opportunity to grow the overall business, generate excitement for the sport, and gain participants which is always a positive,” she says. Reis sums it up perfectly when he comments, “If you get that light bulb to go off for someone and get the form stuff to click — if you can be the store that gets that for them, you will have a customer for life.” l

Year to Date Average Margin 43.4% 42.6%

39.7% Road

Race

Trail

Mimimalist

Non-minimalist

Actual Shoes Sold

Percent Shoes Sold

Left to Right: Newton Terra Momentus, Brooks Green Silence, Merrell Pace Glove, New Balance Minimus, Puma Faas, Saucony Kinvara and Nike Free.

2008

2009

2010

YTD 2011 (Jan-Apr)

Minimalist Excluded

99.34%

98.77%

95.25%

92.03%

Minimalist Only

0.66%

1.23%

4.75%

7.97%

All Shoes

100%

100%

100%

100%

2008

2009

2010

YTD 2011 (Jan-Apr)

Minimalist Excluded

4,477,655

4,675,515

5,071,054

1,749,885

Minimalist Only

29,874

58,318

252,927

151,638

All Shoes

4,507,529

4,733,833

5,323,982

1,901,523

Trend InsightTM is a feature in Footwear Insight that includes consumer research and retail point-of-sale data from The Leisure Trends Group. Data in this issue’s report are based off of Leisure Trends Group’s LeisureTRAK® report. The LeisureTRAK report is developed from a quarterly poll of 1000 American adults ages 16 and over. The results are projectable to the U.S. population. With over 20 years of historical data, the LeisureTRAK report is the definitive source for information about Americans at play. For more information on Leisure Trends Group or its LeisureTRAK report contact Julia Day at 303-786-7900 ext. 107 or [email protected]. For additional information on Trend Insight, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or [email protected].

footwearinsight.com

July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 41

A Special Report to Footwear Insight • July/August 2011

THE BOOT BOOK WORK BOOTS GEAR UP 2011 is the year of the hard-working, good-looking, 24/7 uber boot

Georgia Boot’s Diamond Trax

B

oot brands are working extra hard these days to design footwear that goes to the head of its class. When describing what wearers want, they use words like “durable,” “dependable,” “comfortable” and “versatile.” But how do these words translate into insoles and outsoles? As this edition of the Boot Book illustrates, the answers are being fueled by a host of factors.

2. Fashion Puts Its Best Foot Forward. Work boots aren’t exactly ready for a strut down the catwalk, but they are getting more stylish. Some are walking back to their retro roots or evoking the wild, wild West; others are placing splashes of

3. Is It a Shoe? Is It a Boot? No, it’s Super Boot. Increasingly, you can’t tell a boot from a shoe. A new generation of wearers, used to running the world in sneakers, is demanding a lighter, more athletic look for work and outdoor boots and expects this new breed of footwear to do double, even triple duty both on and off the job. 4. The Hi-Tech Track. Boots now come fully loaded with a plethora of patented proprietary systems. Special linings wick away moisture; gel pads and cushions provide comfort; slip-free lug patterns eat dirt; dials and rockers provide a custom-like fit; and new materials like ion-Mask create full-proof waterproofing. – Nancy A. Ruhling

Photo: Frank James

1. Custom Comfort Right Out of the Box. Hi-tech features allow the wearer to adjust the boot to fit like a glove, and wider toes and narrower heels provide a better fit. More brands are making women-specific sizes and styles.

striking accent colors in strategic spots or adding colors to the standard black and brown lineup.

THE BOOT BOOK

Top-Treading Trends > Boots get their legs with comfort, style and hi-tech features

1. Altama’s Desert EXO, created for light-duty military/tactical missions, is made of tan desert suede and air mesh to blend in with the sand. “This boot has evolved from the popular Original Desert EXOSpeed and EXOSpeed II styles that were introduced in 2006 and 2009,” says Jami McCord, marketing and e-commerce manager. “Each aspect of this boot has been refined to create the most desirable tactical style.” Today’s wearers expect lightweight comfort and athletic design, and the new EXO is as light as it looks – there’s no metal construction. Approved for wear with the U.S. Army uniform, it has a suede-cushioned collar that keeps bloused pants in place. Its removable innersole, a multi-cushioned orthotic, provides extra comfort and fit. Add to this EXO lug-patterned soles, dual-zone wicking and breathable air mesh, a slip-, acid- and oil-resistant and non-marking rubber outsole, molded ethylene vinyl acetate midsole and nylon speed laces, and it’s a real trooper.

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44 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

2. Baffin’s Premium Worker Hi-Viz has turned up the temperature on a brand whose boots work in the coldest places on the planet. Designed for cold-weather or cold-storage wear, the full-grain leather, waterproof boot’s non-metallic hardware, safety toe and puncture-proof plate make it ideal for airport and public utility workers. Features of the eight-inch industrial boot include a lightweight polyurethane midsole that wraps the foundation of the foot; Icepaw outsole pads for traction on ice; extra wide toe box for comfort; B-tek insulation that keeps feet warm in temperatures as low as minus-22 degrees Fahrenheit; Hi-Viz accents for increased visibility and safety; and Gelflex pads that shield high-impact areas like the heel spur and metatarsal. Available in black or brown, it meets Canadian Standards Association and ASTM standards for impact, puncture and electric shock resistance. “Not everyone needs the same

protection as our consumers in Northern Alaska, Fort Mac Alberta or Eastern Russia, but no one wants cold feet,” says Mark Ducharme, industrial sales manager. “This boot keeps feet warm without the bulk of a traditional winter boot. 3. Bates’ Delta-9 Desert Tan, designed for work, uniform and military applications in multi-terrain environments, utilizes the brand’s new iCS comfort technology. With iCS, the wearer simply turns a disc to swiftly switch between four comfort zones – firm, outward, cushion and inward. The boot also has a slipresistant Vibram Mutant rubber outsole whose lug design provides increased traction, a stain-resistant, Scotchguardprotected Warrior Leather upper, plus a full-cushion ethylene vinyl acetate footbed and gel forepart pad that provide added cushioning. “The proprietary technology sets this boot apart,” says Andrew Fowler, director of sales. “Our consumers desire lightweight, comfort and durability when it comes to on-duty and off-duty footwear. We created this boot with features that meet those demands.” 4. Blundstone’s BL560, a lifestyle and work boot, is the “warm and dry” version of the brand’s classic pull-on. It comes equipped with a thinsulate lining, waterproof leather and gore, oil- and acid-resistant thermoplastic polyurethane outsole and a natural shearling insole that’s removable. “Blundstone is known worldwide as the original pull-on work and lifestyle boot,” says Tim Engel, vice president, sales. “More and more brands are coming out with laceless pull-on boots, and Blundstone is proud to be known as the original. As we like to say, ‘Often copied, never duplicated.’” 5. Bogs’ Industrial Chukka, in steel-toe and non-steel-toe versions and a slip-on style, is the ideal worker: It’s designed to show up early, stay late and never call in sick.

THE BOOT BOOK

The Industrial Chukka, which has a durable, hand-lasted rubber upper with waterproof Neo-Tech and Airmesh insulation, comes with a host of hi-tech features. They include the brand’s Channel Air system that maximizes air flow and wicks away moisture, an Ortholite insole and an ASTM-approved chemical- and slip-resistant non-marking and self-cleaning deep-lug outsole. The contoured fit includes a wider forefront and narrower heel for comfort. “Our Chukka allows anyone to stay comfortable in the most uncomfortable conditions,” says Bill Combs, founder and president. “Our steel toe actually keeps feet warm, even in sub-zero conditions. Add in superior traction and high shafts to protect against chemical splashes with 100 percent waterproof protection, and you’ve got a boot that works as hard as the guys who need them do.”

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46 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

6. Cat’s Grist, a pull-on waterproof work boot, expands the brand’s use of Flexion, which moves with the body and feet, reducing fatigue. “Flexion, which we debuted in 2010, is our most successful technology launch to date,” says Kelly Ballou, marketing manager. “It works around the natural shapes of the foot using biomechanics and ergonomics to keep the foot aligned along its natural gait cycle. Flexion provides out-of-the-box comfort. Your feet feel as good at the end of the day as they do at the beginning.” The Grist, which sports classic Wellington styling, is a work beast. It has an ASTM steel toe, slip-resistant outsole, electrical hazard protection, waterproof upper of full-grain leather plus synthetic, nylon mesh lining, removable ethylene vinyl acetate sock liner and a molded polyurethane midsole. 7. Danner’s Workman GTX, a steel-shank leather work boot that weighs in at only 64 ounces, is a study in rugged refinement. Its breathable Gore-Tex waterproof liner stays dry even in extreme conditions; its full-grain leather is comfortable and durable; its stitchdown construction provides a wider platform for stability; and its Vibram Duralogical outsole fights fatigue. It’s available in six-inch and eight-inch styles. The steel-toe version meets or exceeds ASTM standards for electrical hazard footwear. “Reliability and high durability are important to our customers,” says Laurie Shaw, marketing director. “They want products that can be recrafted; with these boots, the outsoles can be replaced, the leather can be reworked and the seams can be restitched, stretching the lifespan of the boot and mak-

ing it a better return on investment. They are willing to pay more for quality since they will be using these boots every day.” 8. Dickies’ Heritage 6013 and 6023, sixinch steel-toe and soft-toe electrical-hazard work boots, bring the past up to date. Made of premium, full-grain saddle brown textured leather with antique brass hardware and a heat-embossed Dickies logo, this boot looks as good as it works and feels. There’s a padded collar and tongue for added comfort and a rubber heel guard for extra stability and protection. The industrial rubber outsole, which uses a traditional welted construction, is oil- and slip-resistant. Fully lined with moisture-wicking performance fabric, the boot also has a removable memory foam insole. “Features that speak to the heritage or longevity of the brand are popular, as are technical features,” says Jeff Huckle, product manager. 9. Harley-Davidson Footwear’s Sirocco, a performance riding and street-wear boot, literally plugs into the latest technology with a state-of-the-art heater. The battery-charged heater in the boot’s forepart radiates heat from the sole up, helping keep feet warm on long rides. The removable charger, which has three settings, provides 3.5 to seven hours of heat after a 4.5-hour charge via a jack in the boot’s back. The Sirocco, a classic lace-up motorcycle silhouette with a slightly more aggressive tread, also features a waterproof full-grain leather upper and Hydro-Guard waterproof membrane lining and a slip-, abrasion- and oil-resistant Vibram outsole. “This is the first boot in our arsenal to incorporate the ThermalBed Technology,” says Hobie Burgnon, VP-sales. “The challenge for us is to create styles that improve the riding experience without alienating the wearer. The Sirocco, which is undeniably Harley-Davidson in heritage and aesthetics, does this.” 10. Hi-Tec’s V-Lite Mt. Nevis II WPi, a men’s lightweight hiker, is equipped with a slew of best-foot-forward technical features. In addition to Hi-Tec’s signature ion-Mask waterproofing technology, the V-Lite has a moisture-wicking lining, comfort-Tec sock liner, Stabila-Flex bi-fit board that eliminates the need for a heavy steel shank, compression-molded ethylene vinyl acetate midsole and high-traction outsole. “They are called V-Lite because the vertical build concept strips away as much weight as possible without sacrificing performance or durability attributes,” says CEO Bill Berta. “No specific technology can be

THE BOOT BOOK

credited for the light weight of these boots. It’s the combination of innovative materials, construction and experience of over 30 years in the industry.” The two color combinations of the mesh and suede uppers – olive/taupe/Dijon and smokey brown/taupe/saffron – make them catwalk contenders.

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11. Justin Original Workboots No. 434, a six-inch non-steel-toe rugged tan gaucho handcrafted in America, is a real work horse. Part of the J-Max collection of work boots, it’s designed to go the extra mile through hours of grueling, physically straining work. Its insole features special systems for comfort and freedom of movement, low-impact, lightweight, flexible gel-cushion inserts, a padded collar and tongue and a lining to keep feet dry. The soles are equipped with ladder grips and Elastomer pads to increase abrasion resistance and slip resistance. “These boots incorporate industryleading technology with quality, long-lasting materials for best-in-class footwear,” says Brandon Barker, brand manager.

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12. Kamik’s Jennifer, a performance lifestyle rain boot, combines fashion and function in lightweight, colorful footwear. Canadian-made, Jennifer is 100 percent waterproof and 100 percent recyclable. It’s made of rubber helium. Rubber helium, the brand’s proprietary product, is PVC-free, feels like natural rubber, keeps its form and traction in cold weather and is much lighter than rubber. “Kamik is one of the last if not only companies that can say that it still manufacturers in North America,” says Catherine Cook, marketing director. “Comfort and lightweight boots are very important to our customers.”

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48 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

13. Keen Utility’s Tacoma is designed to work on work days and weekends, too. Made with a waterproof nubuck leather upper, the Tacoma’s distinctive silhouette and style set it apart as do its hi-tech features, which include a KeenDry waterproof, breathable membrane and a Dri-Lex lining that has two-zone comfort technology that allows moisture out but never in. Its Goodyear welted construction makes it flexible and durable, and its oiland slip-resistant non-marking rubber sole make it good to go on any surface. Keen Utility’s patented left and right asymmetrical steel toes, whose contoured shapes provide superior lightweight protection, meet American National Standards Institute requirements for electrical hazard protection and open circuits. It’s available with or without steel toes in black, brown

and wheat colors. “The Tacoma is a modern take on a classic that fulfills everything Keen holds dear — a work boot that stands on its own,” says Kevin Kious, sales manager. “But when it comes down to working, it has you covered.” 14. Kodiak’s Rebel, a steel-toe, electrical hazard industrial safety boot, offers a lightweight profile and contemporary style. The boot, which has a smoke-color nubuck leather upper with abrasion-resistant nylon panels, is available as six-inch and eight-inch styles. It meets or exceeds ASTM and Canadian Standards Association standards for impact, compression and puncture resistance. Features include a high-frequency molded leather heel guard and stability strap; reinforced rubber bottom eyestay; abrasionresistant rubber toe guard, patented padded anatomical tongue; anatomical wide-fitting last, removable anti-fatigue footbed with energy-transfer heel and forefoot pads; lightweight direct-injected polyurethane midsole; and a thermoplastic polyurethane outsole with a slip-resistant tread design. “The Rebel offers exceptional styling with all of the key safety components at a great value,” says Erron Sorensen, senior VP-sales. 15. LaCrosse’s Alpha Mudlite, an easyon/easy-off rubber work boot, is a stickler for mud. The lightweight oil- and slip-resistant boot, rubber over naturally insulating neoprene, is made of a bi-directional abrasion- and puncture-resistant upper material and has a removable ethylene vinyl acetate footbed and a rubber-cup outsole with built-in floatable rubber midsole. Its steel-toe versions comply with ASTM electrical hazard standards. “Many boots in this category offer a few of these features,” says Laurie Shaw, marketing director. “But Mudlite was created to be the boot in our line that has it all.” 16. Magnum USA’s Sidewinder HPi in MultiCam, a military boot designed particularly for Special Forces in Afghanistan and Iraq, also transitions to the hunting and outdoors market. In development for more than a year with the help of American, British and Southern Hemisphere Special Forces personnel, this tactical/military/outdoors boot is the first fully camouflaged boot, from the tip of its top to its sole. It is built for high-terrain mountain operations and the harshest environments. “There was a tremendous need for a fully camouflaged boot,” says Alexis

Nascimento, public relations manager. “No one else is addressing this need in the marketplace. Nothing in nature is black – and in sniper training, one of the first rules of thumb is to look for boots on the ground. Full camo, including the soles of our boots, will indeed save soldiers’ lives. In the past, snipers would spray paint the bottoms of their boots, which wears off during time.” Featuring ion-Mask technology, which makes it impervious to water and other liquids, the MultiCam has a locking cleat in the sixth position that prevents loosening of laces; a Tec Tuff leather toe that is made from specially treated leather and is 100 times more abrasion-resistant than standard leather; the hardest durometer Vibram rubber soles to prevent cuts; and an OrthoLite footbed designed exclusively for Magnum and military use. The boot is designed to carry 175 pounds on top of the wearer’s body weight for a year in combat. 17. Mountrek’s Dylan Field casual men’s boot is a functional, fashionable waterproof chukka that’s made to work the after-sports shift. It has a lightweight and flexible polyurethane and rubber outsole for shock absorption, plus a minimal compression set. Its duel-density contoured open-cell foam insole has a thermoplastic urethane heel and shank support. In addition, it sports 360-degree protective rubber foxing and speed lacing. “Chukka boots are a trend right now and have timeless styling,” says Donna Colella, brand manager. “These are easy-to-wear casuals that have built-in function.” 18. Muck Boot’s Excursion Hiker, a lightweight, rugged, casual, 100 percent waterproof hiker for the outdoor enthusiast, is designed to keep feet and boot together even in the stickiest situations. Its cinch lace cord lock, laminated to its five-millimeter neoprene upper, gives a snug ankle fit. The lower part of the boot protects the foot with armored rubber, and the new Radial outsole is made of lightweight rubber in a horizontal-wedge pattern that helps shed debris quickly. It also features a cushioned ethylene vinyl acetate midsole, a breathable moisture-wicking lining and an Achilles footbed for more shock absorption. What’s more, it keeps feet comfortable in temperatures ranging from sub-freezing to 85 degrees. “It offers the most extreme comfort you can find in this category,” says product manager Ari Mintz. “And the boots secure protection from wet, snowy or muddy days and will stay in place when walking on uneven terrain.” Its neutral two-color upper and bottom,

available in Lake Green, Carbon and a new Mossy Oak BreakUp, make the hiker perfect for outdoor and causal clothing.

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19. Rocky Boots’ Long Range Work Boot stays a step ahead with combined technologies. Its Long Range X Peak Performance System has 10 highly engineered components ranging from a removable, recyclable, odor-resistant footbed that has dual-density cushion and air flow chambers and a lifetime guarantee to the Stabili-Shank, a patented design for arch support and edgeto-edge lateral stability. The boot also has a breathable, waterproof membrane and an ASTM-approved aluminum safety toe that is lighter than steel. “The Long Range utilizes technology no other work brand is using,” says Steve Graham, marketing manager. “Many of its features are the first to appear in the footwear market and are truly one of a kind in the industry.” 20. Salomon’s Quest 4D GTX is a light and fast yet fully loaded backpacking and tactical boot that also may be worn in the everyday workplace. It finds its comfort zone via the brand’s most advanced trail-running technologies. These include the contragrip, a mix of compound, lug geometry and density that provides great grip and durability, and a 4DChassis that applies cushioning, stability and all-mountain traction through trail-running design applied to trekking. A Gore-Tex waterproof bootie construction, heel foam, waterproof split suede leather, a protective rubber toe cap and gusseted tongue round out its features. “The Quest uses cutting-edge technology to make boots lighter and faster without compromising protection and stability,” says Lauren Barra, product category manager. “It has a sleek profile and fashionforward colorways, including ones that are women-specific.” 21. Tecnica’s Max Hiker Mid GTX is a fast-hiking boot that combines comfort and versatility with top-of-the-mountain trekking performance. Its Tecnica Rolling System Max oversize technology makes it 25 percent lighter yet gives it 100 percent more cushioning volume for all-day comfort every day. The Vibram sole provides a great grip, and GTX adds comfort and waterproofness. “Oversize sports equipment has long been proven to enhance performance,” says Tom Berry, VP-global sales and marketing. “It makes sense to incorporate it into footwear. Much like a mountain bike versus a road bike, TRS Max makes sense

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A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011 • 49

THE BOOT BOOK

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for trail shoes. Studies have shown that TRS Max users use 13 percent less energy and experience up to 7 percent less force impact.” 22. Terra’s Marauder, a work/construction/industrial boot 24 months in development, is the brand’s first completely metal-free eight-incher. The boot, made in Canada, features a direct-injected rubber outsole that kicks away debris and foreign objects and has an aggressive-lug, slip-resistant tread pattern designed to decrease slips and falls. The boot also has a lightweight, direct-injected shock-absorbing polyurethane midsole with a toe bumper, a premium full-grain waterproof leather upper and a CLEANFeet Treated, moisture-wicking Aerospacer lining. “The Marauder series outsole takes inspiration from the military, innovation from athletic footwear and incorporates our manufacturing expertise,” says Erron Sorensen, senior VP-sales. “This boot represents our most significant breakthrough in the design and manufacture of safety footwear in Canada.” 23. Timberland’s Mountain Athletics LiteTrace Mid Waterproof, a men’s multi-sport, takes a giant step into the lightweight category. Weighing in at only 12.5 ounces, it’s the brand’s lightest design. In a stylish bold orange, it offers the attributes of a traditional hiker and the comfort of a sneaker. The boot, essentially only a membrane, eliminates layers to create a close-to-the-foot waterproof shell, and its Pebax foam heel is 20 percent lighter than ethylene vinyl acetate and more durable. The green rubber outsole, made of 42 percent recycled rubber, is designed for traction and durability on trails. “Traditional multi-sport boots are still heavy compared to other types of active footwear,” says Gregg Duffy, senior director of outdoor performance. “We’re the first brand to use Prebax in a multi-sport.” Duffy says Timberland created this boot because “we are literally seeing consumers on the trails hiking in their sneakers — they’re not getting what they need in the multi-sport category.” 24. Timberland Pro’s Helix six-inch Composite Toe is a lightweight full-grain leather industrial work boot that can stand on its own two feet for hours on end. It gets its lasting power from the brand’s Anti-Fatigue Technology — molded, inverted cones that support, collapse and return in key pressure zones. A roomy, composite safety toe provides lightweight protection and comfort; a waterproof membrane keeps feet dry; and a slip-resistant lugged outsole enhances traction. “The Helix provides lightweight comfort and support without sacrificing

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protection, a rare combination to find in the industrial footwear category,” says Jim O’Connor, senior director of product and marketing. “It also negates the need for companies to provide expensive anti-fatigue mats that can pose dangerous tripping hazards.” 25. TrekSta’s Evolution Mid GTX, a hiking boot with men’s and women’s versions, gets its traction by treading lightly while staying in the comfort zone. The brand’s nestFIT design, which resembles the foot, increases comfort and cushion response while eliminating hot spots. The sole features HyperGrip and IceLock rubber compounds. “Out nestFIT offers a fit and concept that has never been produced and gives the feeling of a semi-custom fit right out of the box,” says Mike Barker, sales coordinator. “Also, we made sure to use the lightest material possible while still including the necessary support structure for carrying a 40-plus-pound pack on varying terrain.” 26. Vasque’s Talus WP, a heritage-style waterproof hiker in men’s and women’s versions, combines old-world charm with new-school performance. It has chic, classic looks – metal eyelets and red laces. And techietouches – a dual-density ethylene vinyl acetate footbed, a molded polyurethane midsole, a Vibram Nuasi outsole, an Ultimate Fit Perpetuum last (and a gender-specific one for women) and an UltraDry waterproofing system. “The focus is on fit and comfort,” says Kyle Rackiewicz, product development director. “We’re adding a more simplified vamp on some products to add color pops and more design flair into the hiking and multi-sport segments.” 27. Wolverine’s Northman, a work boot with a traditional silhouette, is part of a new line handcrafted in the brand’s Big Rapids, Michigan, factory that pays homage to the company’s history of more than 125 years in business. Available in brown or black with an optional steel-toe, insulated or noninsulated, it is built of Horween leather, the gold standard. Its Goodyear Welt construction, which allows the boot to be re-soled, partners with performance technologies, including a breathable Gore-Tex waterproof lining, a dual-density polyurethane and rubber Vibram 360-degree outsole, a polyurethane footbed and a leather midsole that molds to the foot. “The Northman combines time-tested construction methods and performance technologies for a premium work boot that is built to perform and last,” says Roger Huard, VP-product development.

THE BOOT BOOK

BORN IN THE U.S.A.

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oday, the “Made in America” label is gaining cache with customers, and the brands are working hard to get their word out. We asked some key companies about their USA branding campaigns. “We’re proud to say we’re handcrafted in the USA. We’re committed to continuing the timehonored tradition of selling boots that are handcrafted in America as much as possible and are touched by the support we receive from our consumers on the topic.” Louis Russo, Brand Manager, Justin Boot Co. “The Justin name represents a brand that has been rooted in the heritage of the American West since 1879. Continuing this honored tradition, domestic manufacturing of J-Max boots is an important focus for the brand, and all products are American-made. The ‘Handcrafted in the USA’ label we place on our products is a major part of our brand’s objective and mission, and we continue to experience positive consumer feedback.” Brandon Barker, Brand Manager, Justin Original Workboots “Lucchese was founded in 1883 by Sam Lucchese in San Antonio, TX. He founded the company on principles of quality craftsmanship and building a product that will fit the human foot unlike any other. He spent years developing a one-of-a-kind last that we still use today almost 130 years later. Our boots are proudly made in Texas by artisans who have over many, many years developed their skills to be master boot makers. We have the best craftsmen in Texas, and there is no other place Lucchese would rather have its products made.” Mario Vega, Marketing Director, Lucchese Cowboy

A Breed Apart

> Western boots ride the range into the 21st century The cowboy boot is America’s hardest working boot. Nobody knows for sure who made the first one, but it is believed that along about 1870 some cowboy got some cobbler to craft it. This newfangled boot wasn’t about vanity; it was about practicality. From its pointy toe to its tall leather shank, the boot, first and foremost, was meant to tame the wild, wild West. Nearly 150 years later, the cowboy boot, rechristened the Western boot, is still on the job. Taking the best from the past and the present, this new herd of boots offers hi-tech comfort, old-world handcraftsmanship and 21st-century styling. – NR

1. DURANGO Durango’s DB5534, a Western/lifestyle boot, is a classic men’s style in distressed tan with simple stitching on the shaft. The full-grain leather boot features a snip toe and a two-inch cowboy heel. “This is a timeless style that is a great allaround boot for someone who wants a straightup cowboy look,” says Amber Vanwy, marketing manager. “We made a best seller even better by updating it with a more modern toe and more comfort features.”

western style hand made in Spain, shows its fashion side with elaborate pin-tuck quilting and multi-colored studs polished to a shine. The short-shaft boot, hand-studded and hand-antiqued, is Goodyear welted and fully lined with pigskin. “The short shaft is suitable for skinny jeans and dresses,” says Michael Petry, VP-design. “Its stellar craftsmanship, highest-quality Italian leather, hand-antiquing and hand-made construction make it best in show.”

2. FRYE Frye’s Deborah Pin Tuck, a classic women’s

3. JUSTIN BOOT CO. Justin Boot Co.’s Bent Rail is functional,

2

3

“Being able to offer our consumers products that are handcrafted in the USA gives us a significant advantage in the market. Tony Lama Boots launched the Americana collection to directly address those consumers who desire products that are manufactured by American workers.” Mike Fuller, Brand Manager, Tony Lama Boots “It’s an advantage to make our boots in the USA because it not only pays homage to our history and allows us to leverage our Big Rapids, Michigan, factory; it also fulfills a consistent consumer desire for premium work boots that are American made. The boots give a sense of pride to anyone who wears them because they’re made in the USA.” Roger Huard, VP-Product Development, Wolverine

52 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

1 4

fashionable, workable and authentically Western in keeping with the brand’s 130-year tradition. “From exotic leathers and a variety of toe and upper offerings, to patented technology features like the J-Flex Flexible Comfort System, our boots offer a solution for every lifestyle,” says Louis Russo, brand manager. “Justin boots offer great looking styles that meet the needs of a consumer’s daily routine.” 4. JUSTIN ORIGINAL WORKBOOTS Justin Original Workboots’ No. 4444 builds upon the brand’s 130-year heritage of the American West with a sleek, contemporary style that works in the office or in the great outdoors. The 11-inch rugged bay gaucho, part of the J-Max collection, veers from the classic with a round, non-steel toe. It’s filled with creature comforts that stand out at every cattle call. There’s a system to make feet more comfortable and one that lets the feet move where they want to when they want to. Lightweight gel-cushion inserts give a feelgood walk to the pull-on boot, and a special lining keeps feet dry. There’s a removable orthotic, and ladder grips and Elastomer pads provide additional on-the-job safety. “We’ve been making boots since 1879, and these boots leverage our experience resulting

in attributes that great work boots require – performance, function, comfort and stability,” says Brandon Barker, brand manager. 5. LUCCHESE COWBOY Lucchese Cowboy’s 12-Inch Apollo Black Saddle Pin Ostrich defines the heritage of the American West. The made-in-Texas brand has been riding the range since 1883, and the Apollo is a winning combination of classic and contemporary styling. It has a leather insole and a one-of-a-kind rubber outsole for comfort and durability. “It has the Western look and still gives the comfort, necessities and quality of a working boot,” says Mario Vega, marketing director. “So you get two in one.” 6. RESISTOL RANCH BOOTS Resistol Ranch Boots’ eight-inch Lace-Up With Calvert Stitch Pattern Tobacco Vintage Calf is rugged and durable enough to suit the everyday working cowboy. Yet it’s stylish enough to kick up its heels in town, too. “It has a contemporary/fashion look and features premium leathers and design,” says Michael Lawlor, VP-brand development. “So you can still use these boots when you go out.”

7. ROCKY BOOTS Rocky Boots’ Handhewn Western Boot, with its nailed-on leather outsole, traditional silhouette and ease in and out of the stirrup, is a classic in the work/Western category. For extra ruggedness, it is available with a rubber outsole, and both styles feature the TechnoStride heel, which gives a smoother gait via a rolled heel strike area. The boot also is slip-resistant and comes in a variety of toes, including square, U and R shapes. “People want something that looks heritagerich,” says Amber Vanwy, marketing manager. “The Handhewn collection offers traditional Western styling with the added features of a modern boot.” 8. TONY LAMA BOOTS Tony Lama Boots’ TLX Western Work Boot, a stylish take on the brand’s long tradition, is loaded with patented technology features that offer comfort, safety and performance. Its TLX Performance Comfort Package includes durable rubber outsoles and scored PVC midsoles that sport mesh-covered open-cell foam insoles. “We pride ourselves on offering boots that combine fashionable elements such as modern, brightly colored uppers with original brand features such as intricate hand-stitching patterns,” says Mike Fuller, brand manager.

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A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011 • 53

THE BOOT BOOK

Mom + Pop + 2 Sons = One Successful Store > Outdoor Sports Center in Connecticut got its start on a front porch By Nancy A. Ruhling

F

Great selection: Outdoor Sports Center covers everything from skiing to camping.

or more than a half century, Outdoor Sports Center has made a name for itself outfitting the citizens of Wilton, CT, for a variety of activities. In retail, there’s no magic formula for success for longtime longevity like this. But in today’s market, where the big-box guys with the razzle-dazzle Web sites seem to get most of the attention and sales, Outdoor Sports Center stands out — for what it isn’t and for what it doesn’t do. First off, Outdoor Sports Center only has one store. There are only a handful of businesses in Wilton, so its 40,000-square-foot standalone space, which is on a main street, makes quite a bricks-andmortar statement. Secondly, it’s a third-generation mom-and-pop shop or rather a mom-, pop- and two-son shop. Jack and Linda Maxwell are the owners; son Scott, who has been helping out ever since he could walk, is the general manager, and son William runs the IT department. Thirdly, the company doesn’t have an e-commerce Web site. Yes, you read that right. It does have a Web site – outdoorsports.com – but it’s only used as a virtual calling card to let the world know it exists. “We are successful for two reasons,” says Scott. “Number one is service; number two is selection. Having such a large selection may be overkill at times, but it’s important that we sell a lot of brands.” The store, which has a staff of 30 to 70 depending on the season, is housed in two buildings and has two floors. It is set up like a series of stores, one for each sports category — skiing, snowboarding, camping, hiking, canoeing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. It carries car

Outdoor Sports Center In Wilton, Connecticut: The 40,000-square-foot store is housed in two buildings. 54 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

THE BOOT BOOK

“We are successful for two reasons: One is service. Two Is selection.” Scott maxwell, general manager

grandparents, John and Sidney Maxwell, racks and the appropriate apparel for each who were avid skiers at a time when not activity. In addition, there are full-service many Americans were familiar with the bicycle and ski workshops. sport, started selling the equipment from Its 5000-square-foot footwear their front porch in 1955. department, which carries more than 30 “My grandfather, who is now in his outdoor and winter boot brands, is on the 90s, was a chemist,” Scott says. “This first floor of the main building at the back was a sideline. He and my grandmother entrance. It is arranged by sports category. wanted to get people in Wilton interested “We don’t use any manufacturer signage,” in skiing and outdoor activities.” Scott says. “We do all the in-store signs The company was incorporated in ourselves so they have a similar look.” 1966, and at one point expanded to five Some 40 percent of the footwear stock shops in communities around Wilton. is boots for men, women and children. Jack and Linda took over in the early The North Face is the best seller; Baffin is 1970s and pared the shops to two then number two. one. “Our customers are looking for fit and “My brother and I were young, and performance,” Scott says. “It’s all about it was too hard for them to keep all the how it feels on the foot. Some of them Many Categories: Boots are arranged by gender. A canoe suspended shops,” Scott says. “My parents are the even ask for boots that have specific from the ceiling reminds customers to check out the other sporting ones who turned the company into a branded features like Gore-Tex waterproof, goods equipment, apparel and footwear in the store. viable way to make a living.” breathable liners and Vibram soles.” All The current store was built in 1983, and of Outdoor Sports Center’s sales are on at least for the time being, the family has no plans to add more. site. “We do have a discount site to unload stock, but it’s under a different As far as turning things over to a new generation, Scott says, “It will name,” Scott says. “We don’t have an e-commerce site yet because we be a long time ‘til we cross that bridge. I just turned 30, and Will is 28. want to do it right. We probably will have one in the next two years, but Neither of us have children. Our parents are still active in making the right now, we’re concentrating on brick and mortar.” business decisions.” n Outdoor Sports Center didn’t start out to be a business. Scott’s

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Tongues

Two Old Friends Re-Connect Over an Invention and a Dream By Craig Heisner

I

t’s hard to imagine how two friends from a college prep school in Nashua, NH, with such contrasting career paths would have a reason to work together after 25 years, but that’s exactly what’s happened with me and Jim Collins. Our lives moved in different directions after our four years at Bishop Guertin High School. Jim headed to Holy Cross, where he excelled in the classroom as a physics major, earning class valedictorian while also competing successfully as a member of the cross country and track teams as a 4:18 miler. I stayed in-state and earned a degree in economics at the University of New Hampshire while keeping my passion for athletics alive as a wide receiver on the UNH football team. After graduation, Jim studied at Oxford as a Rhodes Scholar, where he earned a doctorate in medical engineering before accepting a faculty position at Boston University in 1990 in their Biomedical Engineering department. He’s never left and is now the cofounder

Jim Collins

and co-director of the University’s Center for BioDynamics. His career has brought great success with numerous awards for both his work in the classroom and his contributions to research and science including the MacArthur “Genius” Award. Additionally, Collins is a core founding faculty member of the Wyss Institute for Biologically Inspired Engineering at Harvard University. My career has taken a somewhat different route. After several years in sales and marketing roles in the food business, (Campbell Soup Co. and PowerBar) and a hiatus to earn my MBA, I’ve worked primarily in the athletic footwear and apparel industry with senior-level marketing and GM roles with New Balance, Reebok, and Brooks Sports. I’ve been fortunate to have contributed to some significant growth both with the New Balance Running business unit in the ’90’s and a strategic overhaul with Brooks Sports prior to the business being sold to 58 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011

True “smart” technology that works with the natural human sensory system

Russell Corp. I’ve also worked with several major brands in strategic consulting roles and had the chance to contribute on the Chicago 2016 Olympic bid team. On paper, we had little reason to connect through work, but an incredibly intriguing invention by Jim in the late ’90’s changed all of that. It was at that time that he and I re-connected and shared ideas on what we were working on. Jim told me about his research on a concept that involved a unique technology called “stochastic resonance” that had been around for 10 years or so but had never before been used to treat medical conditions. He had come up with the idea of utilizing vibrating random noise and neuro-stimulation to improve the sensory and motor performance of the human body. Most importantly, he had proven in clinical studies that he could improve balance and tactile sensation when applied to specific areas and had done so for both the elderly in balance studies and diabetics who suffered from peripheral neuropathy. Pretty heady stuff for a shoe industry guy like me to understand, but it sure got my wheels spinning on the market opportunities in the industry. I remember thinking at the time that this is exactly what our industry needed. Rather than depending on gimmicky components and designs, this offered true “smart” technology that works with the natural human sensory system to improve performance and health. This could be a major breakthrough for the footwear business. Fast forward almost 10 years to the Spring of 2010 where, after an unsuccessful development by a medical device licensee, Jim’s invention was moved to the Wyss Institute at Harvard University with the intent of resolving the technical challenges and moving to launch in the market. Jim shared his desire to involve me on the project and the timing was perfect for me to join the Wyss team as a consultant leading the strategy and commercialization efforts. Over the past 12 months I’ve worked directly with Jim and the Wyss Institute engineering team, along with an industrial design firm to fine-tune the designs for both insoles and shoes. The work has also included evolving the electrical needs and identifying a small power source (the biggest challenge), developing a strategy for go-to-market, and initiating business development pitches. We’ve made significant progress as a team. The relevance of this technology in footwear and even apparel becomes more exciting every day that I’m involved with the project. By finding a way to apply this noise stimulation to the body with wafer-thin inexpensive actuators embedded in shoes and insoles, wearers could realize numerous benefits including improved efficiency for performance athletes with less variability in gait and stride length, improved tactile sensation for diabetics to reduce the risk of ulcerations which often lead to amputations, and a clinically proven improvement in balance for both healthy wearers and the elderly who are at a much higher risk of falls. With a growing consumer base in Wellness and an expanded awareness of the importance of footwear and insoles in the chain of health, the timing seems ideal for a revolutionary technology like this. The next steps involve business development opportunities to explore potential licensee partners which I am leading. I’m thrilled to have the chance to help Jim realize his dream of getting people moving. l footwearinsight.com