10 MILE
KEYS CRAWL
Gazing the Night Sky
SAND SCULPTORS page 14
Fossils, Railroads & Rumrunners
GEOCACHING
SEARCHING FOR TREASURE
MAY/JUNE 2014
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8
Essentials: Outdoor Gear
10
Island Charm: Stargazing the Keys
14
Local Profile: Castles in the Sand
20
Southernmost Appeal: Geocaching
26
Local Flavor: Crawling the Keys, 10 Miles at a Time
32
Rewind: Windley Key
38
Essentials: Wine Pairings
Publisher’s note: Here we are with our 5th issue of UNWIND, one that’s sure to expose you to those little known secrets the Florida Keys keeps as all its own. This issue’s theme is OUTDOORS and while the water is certainly essential to any outdoors discussion here in the Keys, we thought we’d save the water for our July issue and focus more on the land in this one. We’ll cover Stargazing, Sand Castle building, and Geocaching, subjects perhaps obscure to many, but very much a part of the Keys and subjects that don’t typically get a lot of ink. We’ll also introduce a new on-going feature, “Take 10 and Unwind”, a 10-mile perspective of those landmarks and hideouts that truly define this region. We hope you enjoy this issue. Feedback from readers throughout the Keys and even from visitors has been exceptional. We’re certain UNWIND is capturing the most interesting, compelling content of any local publication based on your feedback. Ultimately, we hope your experience with UNWIND causes you to laugh, smile or even raise an eyebrow or two. If you have photos or ideas for future issues, please send them to:
[email protected] - Enjoy!
THE FLORIDA KEYS
A Special publication produced by the Keynoter Publishing Company
Relax Outdoors in Island Style! Interior Design for your home inside & out! Custom Fabrics, Wallpaper, Window Treatments and so much more!
Publisher: Richard Tamborrino Creative Director: Emily Pulis Advertising Coordinator: Joanne Pulis Production Manager: Todd Swift Contributing Writers: Alyson Crean, Cammy Clark, Ellen T. White, Brad Bertelli, Jana Vandelaar unwindFloridaKeys.com | 305-743-5551 P.O. Box 500158, Marathon, FL 33050 Cover Photo: Mermaid & Turtle by Sand Isle
Morada Way Arts & Cultural District and Pasta Pantaleo present
Millard Wells Days June 19 - 22, 2014
TELL YOUR STORY.... SHARE HIS STORY... CELEBRATE THE LIFE & ARTISTRY OF MILLARD WELLS
THE ART OF MILLARD WELLS an exhibit of the Keys History & Discovery Foundation
June 19 - August 10
Millard Wells Days “First Night”: Third Thursday ArtWalk celebration 6-9 pm Official Toast at Chef Michael’s 7 pm Event Schedule available at MoradaWay.Org
Learn about the RED KERCHIEF PROJECT by visiting MoradaWay.Org
Millard Wells (1921-2012) was surely the most exciting and prolific watercolor specialist in Florida. From his longtime home and studio in the Florida Keys, he recorded a lifetime of impressions of his spectacular surroundings. An artist, a storyteller, a character -- Millard Wells’ infectious smile and “trademark” red bandana were always a welcome sight throughout this island community. Morada Way Arts & Cultural District is a not for profit 501(c)3 organization registered with the State of Florida. 151 Morada Way | Islamorada | 33036
ESSENTIALS
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Grouper Season is open — are you ready? 8
unwind | May/June 2014
unlock the night sky Explore craters on the Moon, the rings of Saturn or the cloud belts of Jupiter with this Meade 114EQ-ASTR Equatorial Reflector telescope. Its entry level design is a great choice for families and kids. $189, Meade Industries, 800-626-3233, meade.com protect yourself Whether you’re a charter boat captain or a bona fide beach bum, you can’t afford to be lazy about sun protection. Sun Bum's sun care products are specifically formulated for those of us who live and love in the sun. PABA & Paraben free, Broad Spectrum UVA/ UVB protection, Vitamin E enriched. From $13, Florida Keys Outfitters in Islamorada, 305-664-5423, floridakeysoutfitters.com
ISLAND CHARM
STARS ALIGNED Amateur astronomer Jay Elliott captured this image of Saturn, Mars and the Moon with thunderstorms coming from Cuba.
HAVE YOU HEARD THE NEWS? Hear 4 U / Hear 4 Kidz is proud to announce we are merging with Dr. Raul Placencia of AudioLife for our new Hialeah location!
The stars shine bright over the islands There are few other places with the views WRITTEN BY Cammy Clark PHOTOS BY Jay Elliott
J
latitude 23.5 to 25.5, which enables im Moscheck of Michigan didn't viewing of southern constellations that travel 1,000 miles to the Keys for cannot be seen anywhere else in the island and water activities. He continental United States because of made the trek for the spectacular view the curvature of the Earth. of the universe. “Further north, you don't have the “It's amazing what you can see here Southern Hemisphere,” said Libby that you can't see where I live,” he said. Moscheck stayed up night after night Moore, a member of the Florida Keys Astronomy Club who also on Scout Key in the Lower Keys during runs stargazing programs at Crane the annul Winter Star Party with his Point Museum & Nature Center in Midnight Mistress, the nickname his Marathon. “Down here at 24 degrees wife gave to his homemade telescope latitude, you're only that looks like a missing 24 degrees Civil War cannon. Keys stargazers can view of the Southern While the island southern constellations Hemisphere, so chain is known that can't be seen you're not missing a globally as the anywhere else in the whole lot.” home of the world's continental United States That's why third-largest many amateur coral barrier reef, astronomers from more northern its night skies also are a special gem latitudes come to the Keys—to see from nature, offering some of the best what they are missing. stargazing in the United States. “Where I live, we can't ever see the The reason: A combination of low Southern Cross,” said Chuck Jones of light pollution, steady air and the Detroit. subtropical location. The Southern Cross, also called The Keys span from about north
10
unwind | May/June 2014
THE MILKY WAY Ron Poller of the Florida Keys Astronomy Club explores the center of our galaxy.
Crux, is the smallest of the 88 constellations. But it also is the most distinctive. For centuries, sailors in the Southern Hemisphere have navigated by using its bright stars, just as those in the Northern Hemisphere have used the Pole Star. And beginning in the colonial age, the brightest stars of the Southern Cross have appeared on the flags of several southern nations, including Brazil and Australia. The Keys also are a good place to see Omega Centauri, a globular star cluster, and Canopus, the brightest star in the southern constellation of Carina. Moore says she has been gazing into the night skies for decades because
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State Park, Bahia Honda State Park and they are inspirational. “Just look at the elsewhere in Monroe County. number of poems and songs that have But unlike the nursery rhyme, been written about the stars and the astronomers don't want to see twinkling galaxies and the universe.” stars. They want to see sharp planetary They include Crosby, Stills & Nash's views. That's another reason the Keys 1982 hit song “Southern Cross,” which make for good viewing. The air is stable is about a man who sails the world everywhere because the atmosphere following a failed love affair. over the water does not have the Ron Poller, treasurer of the Florida turbulence from the rising heat over the Keys Astronomy Club, said stargazing earth's surface. is “pretty good anyplace in the Keys, “And there is only about 10 degrees as long as you try to get away from the difference between the highs in the highway.” daytime and the “Even my lows at night, which neighborhood on “We're never going to also makes the air Ramrod Key is eliminate light pollution, very stable,” said Jay good. I have a little but we should try to Elliott, a member sky glow close to control it.” - Ron Poller of the Florida Keys Boondocks [Grille Astronomy Club. & Drafthouse], but “You know how you look down a road I can easily see the Milky Way with my on a hot summer day and it shimmers, naked eye.” well the stars do that also. You don't Anne's Beach in Islamorada is a want to look through that because it popular place to set up telescopes. The distorts the views.” Florida Keys Astronomy Club also holds But viewing is not as good as it used events for members at Curry Hammock
Your Complete
STARRY NIGHT Chuck Jones of Rochester Hills, Mich., prepares his telescope for a night of viewing the stars in the dark skies above Scout Key.
to be in the Keys, with development over the past decades leading to more light pollution. While the linear geography of the island chain mitigates some of its effects, Poller said the night sky is a “natural resource” that is not being very
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PHOTO BY Cammy Clark & CONSTELLATION BY Chuck Jones
ISLAND CHARM
well protected. While light at night in cities and towns is inevitable, a lot of horizontal light is being wasted. “It's like the iguana population here,” Poller said. “We're never going to eliminate light pollution, but we should try to control it.” Moore says people would be more concerned if light pollution was equated with water pollution. “Nobody would be in the Keys if the reef was ruined and there were no fish,” she said. The universe is one of the last great frontiers to explore. “We really haven't gotten very far out,” Moore said. “We're getting to see things we've never seen before all the great new telescopes that are up in space. It keeps me going. What's out there? What more can I find?” Elliott said the exploration can begin with “just a pair of binoculars. It's a wonderful way to start stargazing. And if you come out with the club, there are plenty of telescopes that we enjoy letting people use.”
5 WONDERFUL SIGHTS ABOVE THE KEYS The Southern Cross Also known as Crux, it's the smallest of the 88 constellations, but it's also among the most distinctive. While it can be seen from the southern hemisphere year round, the Florida Keys are one of the few places in the northern hemisphere that it is visible.
Omega Centauri It's the Milky Way galaxy's largest and most luminous globular star cluster, located in the southern sky. While it can be seen as far north as Canada at certain times of the year, it's more spectacular to see in the Keys.
The Jewel Box It's a star cluster in the Southern Cross that was discovered by an astronomer in South Africa around 1751. Sir John Herschel later named
it the Jewel Box because through a telescope it looked like a "casket of variously colored precious stones."
Canopus It's the brightest star in the southern constellation of Carina, and the second-brightest star in the night sky. Located in the far southern sky, Canopus helped ancient Polynesians navigate between islands in the Pacific Ocean.
Orion Nebula Also known as Messier 42, it's a diffuse nebula located south of Orion's Belt in the constellation of Orion. While it's one of the brightest nebulae and visible to the naked eye in the night sky, the Keys' great visibility conditions make for especially great viewing of it.
LOCAL PROFILE
2
1
duo lives for over-the-top
sand sculptures
3
“Most art is an acquired taste. But everybody—young and old, and people everywhere—loves sand building.” - Marianne van den Broek
WRITTEN BY Alyson Crean MERMAID & Turtle This sculpture, commissioned by Casa Marina in Key West, stayed on display for months.
T
heirs is a business built of sand—
passion for the impossible art of
sand castles, sand animals, sand
building wet sand into huge intricate
monsters. Even their marriage is built on a foundation of sand. Marianne van den Broek and Chris
“I was intrigued. That was near
Sand Isle, based at the Casa Marina
Amsterdam. It was the beginning of an
Resort in Key West. Their passion for
odyssey in sand.”
and together they bring their passion to the world.
unwind | May/June 2014
“Some friends wanted me to help shovel sand for sculpting,” she said.
Guinto own the internationally known
sand sculpture brought them together,
14
works of art.
5
That was in 1999. van den Broek traveled around Europe competing at sand-sculpting
van den Broek and Guinto met
festivals and perfecting her art. In 2002
as competitors in sand sculpting,
she came to the U.S. to compete in her
discovering in their rivalry a shared
first master-level solo competition. The
4
1 Marianne and Chris love to build Halloween/horror sculptures, especially at competitions. 2 Their Sand Masters Sculpture for Kona Brewing Co. beer festival in Hawaii—the sand volcano actually erupted 80 feet into the air. 3 Commissioned by a couple getting married, who wanted their pets included in the ceremony. 4 Created with the Sand Guys for a 2012 Land's End catalog cover. 5 Built for a fire walking ceremony in Fiji.
May/June 2014 | unwind
15
LOCAL PROFILE
ART CELEBRATES LIFE One of the many Sand Isle sculptures at the center of a celebration.
event put her head to head with Guinto.
den Broek says. “But everybody—young
Guinto starting sculpting sand in 2002
and old, and people everywhere—loves
and quickly made his mark in the field. He has showcased his unique view of
Sand bar On the set of Sand Masters in Micronesia, the team created a hollow sand bar to serve drinks at the 10th anniversary celebration of Palau's Shark Sanctuary.
sand building.” Sand art takes a special kind of sand,
the animal kingdom wrought in sand
and Sand Isle brings it in from Miami.
on several Travel Channel television
van den Broek explains that it’s the
programs. He is especially intrigued with
same sort of sand that most Key Westers
animal behavior, especially reptiles. The
saw put into the road bed as part of
former iguana-catcher of Key West lets
the reconstruction of North Roosevelt
his fascination with the creatures seep
Boulevard, the city’s main thoroughfare.
into his artwork.
Since then they’ve
Locals got their first glimpse of the couple’s artistry when they started the Sand
moved to the Casa
Sand Isle offers sand sculpting classes in Key West.
Box on White Street.
artwork has graced team-building
from the popular Sandy’s Cafe walk-up
exercises and festivals. They travel the
bodega, the couple crafted spectacular
world to create sculptures for a myriad
and complex formations: Castles,
of clients.
dragons, robots, knights on horseback,
In addition to making art for special
cartoon characters. The world-class
events, Sand Isle offers classes in sand
formations were eye-opening for the
sculpting in Key West.
small community. “Most art is an acquired taste,” van
unwind | May/June 2014
Street, and their weddings, corporate
In a vacant lot across
16
Marina on Reynolds
“We begin by teaching how it works,” van den Broek says. “We start with
May/June 2014 | unwind
17
LOCAL PROFILE
Key West Harbour
CELEBRATING YOUR FIRST DAY AS ONE!
LEARNING THE CRAFT Aspiring sand artists attend a team building event on Little Palm Island.
making blocks, teaching how to make the sand stick together. Once you get the basics, you can understand how to make more complex creations.” Competition is still part of their lives, though van den Broek says Guinto is
© Lona Hall, Blueye Images
the more competitive component of the couple. “Competition is a small world,” she says. “There are only a couple of hundred
competition over Thanksgiving this year,
hard to imagine how an artist deals with
and the couple is stoked.
the transitory nature of sand sculpture.
“This will bring in professionals from
“You get really good at letting things
people worldwide who professionally
all over the world,” she said, “including
go,” says Marianne. “It’s like a puzzle. It’s
sculpt sand.”
two from the ‘Sand Masters’ TV show” on
more about the work than the result.
the Travel Channel.
When it has to come down, I have no
She notes that there are quite a few couples in the competitive sandsculpting universe. Sand Isle will host a
Looking at the intricate jellyfish and other gravity-defying works of art, it’s
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SOUTHERNMOST APPEAL
KEYS KRITTERS If you go after the "Keys Kritters" series of geocaches, you'll find this little crustacean hidden inside "landed" coral on Route 1.
N W E
SUCCESS Geocacher friends hit pay dirt on "Later Alligator," a geocache within the Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuge.
S
Geocaching in the Keys results in great finds
This is not your TYPICAL Treasure Hunt
20
unwind | May/June 2014
WRITTEN BY Ellen T. White
X
PHOTOS BY Ellen T. White & COURTESY OF Groundspeak
When Josh and Liz Wilson were planning their Key West wedding two years ago, they flew into Miami, rented a convertible and soared together down U.S. 1, which they call “one of the best drives in the world, crossing over bridges that connect key after key.” To kick their adventure up a notch, they embarked on geocaching—which led them onto a phenomenal trail, a deserted beach and a historic site along the way. “The cool thing about geocaching,” says Josh, who blogs on the subject (peanutsorpretzels.com) “is that the game takes you to places you would never know to go on your own. The appeal is in the journey as much as anything.” Think of geocaching as a kind of treasure hunt held on an international scale. Instead of a crinkled old map with an X marking the spot, geocachers find “treasure” with a handheld GPS or through an app on their smartphones.
May/June 2014 | unwind
21
geocache. Because it was hidden where Alas, your hunt will not put you on most tourists feared to tread, their hunt to a winning lottery ticket. Treasures made them “feel a bit like Indiana Jones.” are typically trinkets—small toys, coins How did geocaching start, and what and stickers—hidden inside innocuous accounts for its growing popularity? airtight containers such as Tupperware. If Before technology intervened, the you take a trinket, the rules say you have practice was called letterboxing or to replace it with something of equal or scavenger hunting—undertaken by a few greater value. The sport is really in the intrepid souls with a handful of clues, a challenge of solving the puzzle and in the map and a compass. However, in 2000, pleasure of discovery along the way. then-President Clinton announced an According to geocaching.com, the end to the intentional degrading of global game’s official site, geocaching has more positioning systems, which meant that than 6 million enthusiasts worldwide. civilian GPS devices were accurate for Some geocachers travel to cache; others the first time. A day later, computer cache wherever their travels happen to consultant Dave take them. More than Ulmer tested the 2 million finds are Over 2 million caches are waters, so to speak. hidden in locations as hidden around the world. He left a black far flung as Antarctica bucket in the woods and Easter Island, near Beavercreek, Ore. He filled it with as well as high-traffic sites such as the videos, books, software and a slingshot, London Tube (train system) or around the along with a logbook and pencil, and Eiffel Tower. posted its coordinates online. Within In the twisted tree roots around three days, cachers found the booty an abandoned temple at Angkor Wat, and geocaching was born. As the online Cambodia, the Wilsons turned up a
smb cafe ad 7.375 X 4.8438 rd01.indd 1
community of cachers grew, so did interest in the game internationally. The Seattle-based company Groundspeak, launched shortly thereafter, effectively manages the game worldwide at geocaching.com. Aspiring geocachers can register their membership for free; however, a premium membership—which can customize a search—is a mere $30 a year. Download Groundspeak’s app onto your smartphone, and you’re off and running. Punch in a zip code, and the app provides a map with the coordinates of the geocaches nearby. A search turns up
1/16/14 11:57 AM
PHOTOS BY Curt Williams & Groundspeak
SOUTHERNMOST APPEAL
670 possible geocaches from Key Largo to Key West. A few ambitious geocachers have logged them all. You don’t have to know how to hit the ball, metaphorically, to enjoy the game. The terrain and the level of difficulty of each cache are noted, so you can play at any level you choose. When you locate a cache, you sign the physical log inside and register the find virtually. If you’re having trouble, you can “cheat” (yay!) without being penalized; geocachers track their own experiences, along with snap shots that all give the
JOIN THE HUNT Download Groundspeak's geocaching app on your smartphone, and you're in the game. TRAVELLING ADVENTURISTS Rebecca Varley and Curt Williams have chalked up an incredible 7,495 geocache finds, and created 121 of their own, in 38 states.
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TRACKABLES Geocaching coins can be tracked online as they move around the world; a Cache In Trash Out token representing environmental clean up events.
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RULES OF GEOCACHING 1.
If you take something from the geocache (or "cache"), leave something of equal or greater value.
2. Record your find in the cache logbook. 3. Log your experience at www.geocaching.com.
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UNDERCOVER Geocaches come in all kind of containers, some of which are cleverly disguised to blend into the environment.
CACHE, EH? Josh Wilson homes in on a geocache, as he and his fiancee, Liz, make their way down Route 1 to their wedding in Key West.
Cardenas, a former biological technician game away. Geocaching.com keeps track for the Florida Keys National Wildlife of your “stats” of found caches, which is Refuges who launched geocaching within particularly alluring for the competitive. the refuge’s complex (FavorFloridaKeys. Caches can be concealed underwater. com/GeoCaching.htm). Cardenas was An astronaut returned one from its hooked after she found her first geocache hiding place on the International Space in Belize some years ago. Station. But you are just as likely to find a The aim was to bring more people geocache in the parking lot of a shopping into the refuges and educate visitors mall, along a village street, in an urban about Keys wildlife and the natural park—or, according to Denise Johanowicz, environment. near that huge model lobster outside the Caches with names like “Watson Rain Barrell in Islamorada that startles Nature Trail,” “Pine Rocklands” and “In a motorists heading down U.S. 1. While Crocodile” have intriguing online “We were so stumped by the clues. We descriptions of the local flora and fauna kept running back and forth across Route and lead to more information about the 1,” she laughs. Keys’ delicate ecosystem. For instance, Johanowicz and her husband vacation why does the Bartram’s scrub hairstreak in Islamorada each spring with their butterfly thrive in fire? How do you two daughters to fish and snorkel, but identify a poisonwood tree? What happens they like to change it up with a few local when you disturb a female crocodile? geocaching trips. “We like being outdoors, A feature called “trackables” allows and it’s a really fun thing to do as a family.” geocachers in the refuges to carry To the delight of Johanowicz’s trinkets representing daughters, there was various species of a bracelet and a tiny “Earthcaches” forfeit birds, such as the maze inside a cache treasure and highlight blue goose, osprey or along U.S. 1, which American goldfinch, they replaced with something about the on “missions”—either their own loot— location or geology. to a new refuge or on “cheddar head” erasers a path that follows from their Wisconsin their migratory patterns. Through tags home. But it’s not so much what’s inside registered online, geocachers can track the cache that’s the draw, according to their birds’ progress as they “fly” across Johanowicz’s youngest daughter, Ellie, 10. the country, moved from destination to It’s the “happy feeling you get when you destination by the next geocacher. finally find it.” Geocaching.com connects members For Johanowicz, the charm is in the with Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and serendipitous discovery of new places. A Instagram, where they post their geocache called Ancient Coral led them to adventures online. Members also Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State congregate at events, listed on the site Park for the first time. state by state; attendance often counts Caches can come in series, such as toward their overall score. “Keys Kritters,” or with hard-to-crack At popular Cache In Trash Out clues—some in treasure chests with (CITO) events, cachers convene in an combination locks. The containers can be effort to clean up designated areas. homemade, and deceptively creative. The National Key Deer Refuge in the On one trip, the Wilsons found a tiny Lower Keys typically holds an annual log inside a hollowed-out pinecone CITO event at Long Beach on Big Pine dangling by a thread from the branch of Key in conjunction with the Ocean a tree. “Earthcaches” forfeit treasure and Conservancy’s International Coastal highlight something about the location or Cleanup in the fall. geology. “Virtual” caches take players to “Geocaching can take players to historic sites. beautiful places,” says Cardenas, “and “It’s kind of amazing to think that that often leads to a real sensitivity for wherever you are in the world, there the environment.” is a geocache nearby,” says Kate Perry PHOTOS BY Liz Wilson & Groundspeak
May/June 2014 | unwind
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LOCAL FLAVOR
Kids can splash in the pool while adults grab a drink and enjoy the heavenly cool breeze under the gigantic new tiki bar. Every inch of your body will relax as you take in the beautiful water, the crazy decorations (a lot of which were locals' personal treasures donated on opening day), delicious food, great music and a sandy beach. They describe themselves thusly: “If you want to experience the real Keys, then come to Gilbert’s Resort. If 5 stars is your standard, then this is not the place for you.” Yep. Even their website is quirky.
TAKE 10 AND UNWIND All you need to know about the Keys, 10 mile markers at a time WRITTEN BY Jana Vandelaar
BREEZES, BIKINI’S, BOATS & BANDS Instead of sitting in traffic, locals & tourists park at Gilbert’s and suck in the fresh air.
FUNKY DECOR Gilbert’s customers enjoy icy drinks while taking in turquoise water and Keys decorations under the giant tiki bar.
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unwind | May/June 2014
The people who say beauty is only skin deep obviously haven’t been to the Florida Keys because there is a lot more depth to this place than the obvious turquoise waters and lush green palm trees. The true beauty of the Keys is its personality. Sometimes we forget to embrace this, um, unique quality. The Keys offer more than just visual delights; they offer rich surprises. In unwind, we’ll help you discover these funky treasures, 10 miles at a time, covering the length of the Florida Keys from mile marker 110 in Key Largo all the way down to mile marker 0 in Key West. We’ll find everything from underwater weddings to underwater concerts, from ginormous tarpon to minuscule bioluminescent plankton, from sleeping in a tent to sleeping underwater. So grab a crazy cocktail – and enjoy the ride in this first segment, traveling down U.S. 1.
Mile Marker 107.9 Here’s the visual: You’re supposed to be going away on vacation but instead find yourself stuck in a long line of cars inching southbound on the 18-Mile Stretch that connects the mainland to Key Largo. You 1 swear you see a snail moving 0 faster than your convertible and 8 begin doubting your decision to drive down to the Keys on a Friday afternoon. But then you see an exit sign with a nerdy name – Gilbert’s – and think, Maybe I should get off this bridge and go for it. Instead of sucking in more fumes from the car’s exhaust in front of you, take the exit and discover why we live in the Keys. Gilbert’s Resort and Marina has something for everyone and represents the Florida Keys perfectly. No matter where you’re from or who you bring – the whole family, dogs included – will be happy here.
PHOTOS BY Jana Vandelaar & Bob Care/Florida Keys News Bureau.
BRUSHING UP Jana Vandelaar participating in Amy’s Amoray Dive Center’s annual underwater pumpkin carving contest.
Welcome to the
LOR •E• LEI Restaurant & Cabana Bar
Beach/Waterfront Dining: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Featuring the best Seafood, Live entertainment nightly and Full Bar Service until Midnight
Mile Marker 106.5 PIRATE BOOTY Cheap beer and crazy locals make Shipwreck’s Bar & Grill a rich experience.
Just past Gilbert’s, you’ll find a large sign on the ocean side advertising the Buzzard’s Roost and a smaller sign sitting on the corner advertising the Shipwreck's Bar & Grill. Now we’re really getting into 1 some of the hidden treasures. 0 Both of these places are worth 6 exploring though they have different vibes. Buzzard’s Roost is beautifully decorated with an eclectic menu ranging from a lobster Rueben to barbecue baby back ribs. There’s a delicious Sunday brunch with a
Breathtaking views for the nightly Sunset Celebration! Look for the Mermaid! MM 82, Islamorada 305-664-2692 | loreleicabanabar.com
LOCAL FLAVOR
WHERE’S WALDO… OR THE DOOR? If you can find it, Shipwrecks Bar & Grill is a tucked away secret.
Mile Marker 104.2 Anyone can get married in a church, but how many can get married underwater? Amy Slate’s Amoray Dive Resort is the quintessential choice for water1 0 loving lovers. 4 Her logo has two moray eels
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unwind | May/June 2014
intertwined into a heart – and Amy is famous for having a giant neon green eel wrapped around her while diving. Amoray’s has been marrying couples since it opened almost 30 years ago yet each marriage is unique, as would be expected when you’re tying the knot underwater. If you’re not ready for marriage, how about carving a pumpkin underwater? Amoray hosts annual underwater pumpkin carving contests around Halloween, and they’ve gained national attention over the years. The challenge of carving a pumpkin while underwater is an experience you’ll never forget. Amoray’s also runs one of the most popular dive/snorkel resorts in the Keys with a pool and hotel on the premises. Check out their website for all of the splashy details, www.amoray.com
Mile Marker 104.1 What does Humphrey Bogart have to do with illiterate dogs and a local church? They’re all connected to one of the most well-known places in the Florida Keys, the Caribbean Club. 1 This is where the 1948 0 Humphrey Bogart film “Key 4 Largo” was set – although the movie was mostly shot in Hollywood. The movie, about a gangster holed up in a Key Largo motel during a hurricane, not only put the Caribbean Club on the map, but also put the Keys on the map. The Caribbean Club also had a role in
the 1996 film “Blood and Wine,” about a wealthy wine seller (Jack Nicholson) who has no more use for his alcoholic wife and his stepson. Nicholson’s character Alex soon gets into jewelry theft, and Key Largo is where he wants to pawn the stolen goods. So how do illiterate dogs fit in with these A-listers? Asked if dogs are allowed at the Caribbean Club, owner Robby Whitehurst pointed to a sign above the front door that says “no dogs allowed.” Then he grinned and said, “Fortunately, dogs can’t read.” Still, even illiterate dogs, Bogey and Nicholson are no match for the Caribbean Club’s favorite A-lister, Father John from St. James the Fisherman Episcopal Church. Every third Sunday, Father John holds a service next to a rusty old cannon by the water – right behind the Caribbean Club. How many people can (legitimately) say they go to church at a bar?
Mile Marker 103.3 Everyone knows sleeping with the fishes usually isn’t a good sign in gangster movies but here in the Keys, it’s something people put on their bucket list. When you visit Jules’ 1 Underseas Lodge at 51 0 Shoreland Drive, along with 3 the Hideout Restaurant at 47 Shoreland, just off mile marker 103.3, you’ll find a sunken treasure – 21 feet under the water. It’s an underwater
hotel that has been visited by astronauts and heads of state including former Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau, and celebrities such as rock stars Steven Tyler of Aerosmith and Jon Fishman of Phish. If you’re wary of sleeping with the fish overnight, you can simply dive down to
PHOTOS BY Jana Vandelaar & COURTESY OF Jules’ Undersea Lodge
complimentary glass of champagne. It’s always delicious and it’s a tucked away favorite of the locals. But Shipwreck's Bar & Grill blends in so well with the stacks of lobster traps on the side of the road; you could easily drive right on by without knowing there is a restaurant right next to the water. To be honest, this almost makes it more appealing. It is well worth roughing it. When you find the door and step inside, you know your first impression is still correct. Although Thurston Howell III might consider it even beneath the standard of living on “Gilligan’s Island,” he’d still love the dollar bills tacked all over the ceiling and walls. The food is fried and the beer is cold and you can meet some colorful new friends any day of the week. One particular day, two customers sitting at the bar pointed out that Shipwreck's has what everyone wants - $1.50 beers for happy hour. They also said they prefer people in the Keys over people from Northern Florida because they consider everyone up there snowfrogs – people who go there to croak.
NEW MEANING TO MULTI-USE The Caribbean Club is where church and cocktails occasionally congregate.
peer through the windows of the hotel, catch a glimpse of someone enjoying a lobster dinner or see a pizza delivered underwater – maybe even book an underwater experience for yourself. Seeing this place is a priceless memory, yet the real treasure is the education promoted on the property. Since 1985, nearly 5,000 students from around the world have visited the premises and dove in the emerald lagoon surrounding the hotel to study ocean science and resources through their MarineLab education programs (www.mrdf.org). In October 2014, two aquanauts, Professor Bruce Cantrell and Adjunct Professor Jessica Fain from Roane State (Tenn.) Community College, will live in the underwater habitat while teaching
SLEEPING WITH THE FISH The Jules' Underseas Lodge is a functioning underwater hotel.
a college-credit course. They plan to stay underwater for what would be a record-breaking 72 days. But possibly the best secret on this property is the Hideout, a fun restaurant that is like eating on your grandma’s back porch. You’ll feel right at home as you enjoy preservative-free homemade food. One of its owners, Kathy, said it’s the “only free zoo in the Keys because we always have an abundance of conch critters,” - locals enjoying the easy atmosphere. Although they do have real bathrooms, Duck, one of their favorite critters, showed us the bathroom sign that says “Restrooms 3rd tree on right.” Sure enough, if you count three trees to the right, you’re going to find a toilet paper dispenser.
LOCAL FLAVOR
LOVE IS IN THE WATER Underwater isn’t just for diving. Weddings and eel hugs can be found at Amoray Dive Resort.
Gifts & Boutique
OPPOSITES DO ATTRACT Whether you prefer fun or fancy, delicious fish "hooks” everyone at Encore and the Fish House.
At marker 102.4, you’ll find the Fish House and Encore restaurants, both right on the highway and easy to find. Although operated by the same owners, they contrast each other perfectly. Encore is one of the nicer 1 restaurants in the Keys with a 0 beautiful piano bar and classier 2 decor. It has signature drinks and a wall of awards showing its popularity among the locals and travel magazines alike. The quirkiest thing about Encore is that it is elegant – not easy to find in the Keys. Its older brother, the Fish House, has been around a lot longer and there’s a reason for its staying power. It has stories (well, the main reason it has been around for so long is because it uses only fresh fish delivered daily at the back door, but that’s
not as fun to point out). The stories date back to when C.J. Berwick and Doug Prew bought the place – and motorcyclists insisted on parking their Harleys inside the restaurant. That’s also when the cook would throw food – across the restaurant – at the waiters if they took an order the cook didn’t like. They had enough stories to make up a fascinating book of the restaurants, “The Fish House & Encore Restaurants Exceptional Florida Keys Cuisine.” Page 13 introduces Oliver, a parrot who worked at the Fish House. He once was interviewed by Al Roker, and once got the owner out of a traffic ticket after Hurricane Andrew.
The book includes recipes of their famous drinks and entrees. Marine-life artist Wyland’s artwork graces the cover. Enjoy the book while taking in the funky fishing nets on the ceiling intertwined with strings of pink flamingo and martini lights, or pictures of the old Florida Keys nailed to the walls next to original artwork. This is just a sampling of the endless treasures found in the first ten miles of the Florida Keys. There are secret surprises everywhere and the best ones are what you can discover on your own. Stay tuned for the next issue of unwind and the next 10 miles of treasures.
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PHOTOS BY Jana Vandelaar & Stephen Frink
Mile Marker 102.4
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REWIND
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FOSSIL REEF, THE RUMRUNNER & MUCH MORE Lots of folks know Windley Key merely for Theater of the Sea and the Postcard Inn Beach Resort and Marina at Holiday Isle, but the small Islamorada island has a long history. Besides having the highest elevation in the Keys at 18 feet above sea level, the island’s most prominent features are quarry pits left behind by not only Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway crews, but from quarry operations utilizing the limestone substrate for more decorative purposes. A 1857 report written by U.S. Army Capt. Abner Doubleday (the man once inaccurately credited with creating baseball) calls the island between Plantation and Upper Matecumbe keys Vermont Key. Once two islands, it was
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also called the Umbrella Keys. Workers building the Key West Extension of Flagler’s railroad used limestone, sand and marl to fill the narrow channel that once separated the two islands. Today, the single island of Windley Key is home to the Fossil Reef Geological State Park—and considered the birthplace of the consummate Keys cocktail, the rumrunner. One visit to the Fossil Reef Geological
State Park, mile marker 84.9, is all it takes to reveal the true nature of the Keys. Once upon a time, these islands were the barrier reef system now just a handful of miles offshore. It can be one thing to make that claim and another thing altogether to see an 8-foot exposed wall of the limestone substrate the islands are built upon filled with the fossilized remains of a once-vibrant coral reef. The evidence is eye-opening and breathtaking. The Fossil KEYS ORIGINAL Reef Geological Theater of the Sea opened its State Park doors in 1946. opened in 1999 Park admission for and is home adults was $1.50. to several rock
PHOTOS BY Brad Bertelli & COURTESY OF Jerry Wilkinson
WRITTEN BY Brad Bertelli
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REWIND
GUIDED TOURS Friday through Sunday at 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM provide a mix of history and hammock info.
quarries that were in operation just after the turn of the 20th Century. After Charles Smith officially surveyed the island for the government in 1872, the land was open to homesteading. Benjamin Russell homesteaded 127 acres in 1883. It was 1895 when the remaining 97 available acres were deeded to the Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West Railway, which operated a rail and steamship network. A rusty channeling machine found at the park site was used to quarry limestone. The machine would chisel two narrow criss-cross grooves into the fossilized coral bedrock. The machine’s chisel was used to cut a small trench in the limestone six inches at a time. After one pass, the machine would make another, cutting the trench 6 inches deeper every time. John Rowe operated the Russell Quarry. Charles Cale Sr. operated the Keystone Quarry for the Keystone Art Co. out of Miami. Their job was to extract slabs of the limestone that were then shipped to Miami, where the fossilized stone facades were polished to a sheen and sold as decorative art called keystone. The facade of the Hurricane Monument (it's formal name is the Florida Keys Memorial) on Upper
Matecumbe Key is an excellent example of keystone (the monument marks the deaths of some 400 people in the 1935 Labor Day hurricane that slammed Islamorada and put an end to the railroad). The quarry was operational until the 1960s.
RAILROAD TOWN When Flagler’s men operated the quarry to help supply building materials for the Key West Extension, a town aptly named Quarry sprung up near what is today the marine-mammal attraction Theater of the Sea, mile marker 84.7. The water feature at Theater of the Sea is the site of one of the old quarries. Once flooded, it was first used to raise stone crabs by Alonzo Cothron and Berlin Felton. They were local businessman whose initials spell out a fine Key West eatery overlooking the Schooner Wharf Bar, the A&B Lobster House. Phelps McKenny made Theater of the Sea what it is today. He was vacationing from his native Georgia when he saw the property’s water feature and imagined dolphins jumping out from the water, splashing and leaping to the delight of an enraptured audience. Theater of the Sea opened in 1946 with its first performing Atlantic bottlenosed dolphin trained and delivered KEYSTONERS Charles Cale, Sr. by none other left and J.P. right than Grassy Key working at the legend Milton Keystone Rock Company - c. 1900 Santini, the man responsible
QUARRY REMAINS Several pieces of old machinery once used to work the quarries can be seen around the park.
for the star of television and the silver screen, Flipper. Theater of the Sea is the secondoldest marine mammal park in the world and the third marine mammal facility in the United States to offer a swim-with-the-dolphin experience. In 1952, Ed Goebel bought the Green Mangrove, a small restaurant that stood on a narrow strip of oceanside property. Goebel renamed the restaurant the Big Blow. He also bought the 7-Mile Reef Marina and five rental units at the locale.
THE RUMRUNNER After purchasing several acres of sea floor, Goebel brought in a dredger and began filling in the oceanfront property until he created seven additional acres on which he constructed Holiday Isle. In the 1970s, what is now the World Famous Tiki Bar, birthplace of the rumrunner, was nothing more than a small wooden shack built out of driftwood because, according to Goebel’s son, Greg, “money was tight.” The frozen sensation is a blend of rum, lime juice, grenadine, banana and blackberry liqueurs. John Ebert, better known as Tiki John, created the subtropical libation back in the mid 1970s. Originally made with sugar, not grenadine, the drink received its reddish-pink hue one day when bartender Tiki John ran out of sugar and didn’t feel like going to get more. Ask for a floater and the bartender will top your drink off with a touch of Bacardi 151; the original recipe called for it.
May/June 2014 | unwind
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Must Haves ves Summer 2014
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ESSENTIALS
Seafood & Wine
Pairings
The Keys are well-known for its seafood. Sometimes, finding that perfect wine to pair with that savory seafood dish can be a chore. Here, with the help of Bayside Grille in Key Largo, we take the guesswork out and provide some elegant wine suggestions to accompany that special meal.
3
1 1 Seared Tuna
38
2 Fried Yellowtail
3 Conch Chowder
4 Sauteed Hogfish
Try it with: Shiraz Recommends: Rosemont
Try it with: Pinot Gris Recommends: Erath
Shiraz—with it's intense, spicy fruit and long, richly textured finish. Subtle use of American oak completes the wine.
Pinot Gris—the juicy palate of ripe honeydew melon, citrus, and exotic lychee melds into a rich, plush crescendo.
Try it with: Pinot Noir or
Try it with: Riesling or
Chardonnay
Rosé
Recommends: Atticus
Recommends: Sea Glass
Pinot Noir—elegant, balanced & framed with well integrated tannins and a bright, juicy acidity.
Riesling—perfumed white flowers are supported by juicy apricots, peaches & melon with a hint of honeysuckle.
unwind | May/June 2014
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PHOTOS BY www.vincentdevriesphoto.com DISHES PREPARED BY Bayside Grille.
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