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L E I S U R E T R AV E L
Portugal a pleasure. Primary and
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FOR MORE INFORMATION
secondary roads are well maintained, signage is good and service plazas, with excellent cafés, are immaculate. Knights & Castles Tomar and its environs have enough historical and ecclesiastical treasures to make your head spin. Among them are no less than three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: ethereal Alcobaça Monastery, founded 3
by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 and the largest Gothic religious structure in Portugal; soaring Batalha Monastery, another magnificent example of Portuguese Gothic architecture; and—most flamboyant of all— the Convent of Christ, originally the Portuguese headquarters of the crusader-era Knights
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Templar, an order that became
PLAN YOUR TRIP visitportugal.com visitalentejo.pt centerofportugal.com
Official site of the Portuguese National Tourist Office The Alentejo region The Centro region
GETTING THERE TAP Portugal A member of the Star Alliance, Portugal’s national airline offers service from Newark to Lisbon and Oporto. New this year are hourly flights between Lisbon and Oporto. Friendly service, excellent food and wines, and over 100 movies make TAP a pleasure to fly. In 2017, TAP will be the first to launch the new Airbus A33neo airliner, designed with fuel economy and passenger comfort in mind. flytap.com, 800-221-7370. Auto Europe With connections in 180 countries, this award-winning U.S.-based rental car aggregator helps customers find the lowest rates. Downloadable guides detail regulations and insurance considerations in every country. autoeurope 4 .ca, 888-223-5555. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel dos Templários Luz Houses Quinta das Lavandas Pousada Mosteiro do Crato Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel
hoteldostemplarios.pt luzhouses.pt quintadaslavandas.pt pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-crato alentejomarmoris.com pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-estremoz
the Knights of Christ in the 14th 1
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century. Alcobaça, built by Portugal’s first king to commemorate a
headed by Pedro’s father (and
victory over the Spanish in 1385.
victory over the Moors, became
posthumously coronated by
Tomar’s Convent of Christ is
an important royal abbey. In a
Pedro!). The Batalha Monastery
perhaps the most fascinating.
place of honor on each side of
(batalha means “battle” in
Its polygonal church, dating to
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
1. Monsaraz.
a road trip reveals what makes portugal special
3. 17th-century tile, Vila Viçosa.
the transept are the elaborately
Portuguese) is dedicated to the
the 12th century, is said to be
4. Pousada Mosteiro do Crato.
carved tombs of King Pedro and
Virgin Mary and commemorates
patterned after the Church of
5. Elvas.
his beloved mistress, Inês, be-
a decisive Portuguese military
the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
2. Convent of Christ, Tomar.
STORY AN D PHOTOG RAPHY BY CHAR LES AN D MARY LOVE
Portugal captured our hearts.
century sailors who explored the
Our clockwise loop, which
spring, cork forests, olive groves
We traveled to this small
limits of the known world. Or the
started in Lisbon, veered slightly
and vineyards spread over plains
country 20 years ago on an
country’s soulful fado music, its
off course to take us to historical
blanketed with yellow and blue
ambitious road trip that took
world-influenced cuisine, fine
and religious sites in and around
wildflowers. Sheep and cattle
us around most of her regions.
wines and, most important, its
Tomar, in the Centro region,
graze in bucolic settings little
Afterward, we vowed to return.
gracious, down-to-earth people.
an hour north of Lisbon. Then
changed for decades. And
Why? Perhaps it was the
Whatever the reason, we
we traveled east to the north-
nearly every hill town is crowned
country’s natural beauty: rugged
found ourselves returning to
ern part of the Alentejo (Upper
by a rambling castle.
mountains, broad plains, cork
Portugal last spring for a tour
Alentejo), finally returning to
Auto Europe helped us rent
forests, olive groves and golden
of the Alentejo, a region that
Lisbon on a more southerly
our car. Drawing on its inter-
beaches. Or its charming white-
lies to the east and south of
route.
national network of agents,
washed hill towns. Maybe it
Lisbon. Tourists sometimes give
With a third of Portugal’s
this U.S.-based broker helps
was Portugal’s history, which
it a miss, and that’s a shame,
land area but just 7 percent of
Americans find the type of car
includes tales of the legendary
because it’s rich in history, rural
its population, the Alentejo is
they prefer at the best rate.
Knights Templar and of 16th-
traditions and pastoral beauty.
delightfully uncrowded. In the
As before, we found driving in
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1926 SAVA NNA H H W Y CHARLESTON, SC 29407
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(843) 571-5720
Photograph courtesy Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa.
SIGNATUREKITCHENS . NET
8
7
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Over the next 500 years, the
inset with Templar crosses. It’s
locally sourced products, guests
complex’s medieval core ex-
attractive, centrally located and
are encouraged to enjoy the
panded with the addition of a
reasonably priced. A nearby
grounds, which include a spa in
Manueline nave and eight clois-
alternative—in Fatima, the
a cave and a little chapel.
6. Lobby, Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa. 7. Country road, Alentejo. 8. The Orange Tree dessert at the Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa.
ters. Most stunning is the early
popular pilgrimage site where
16th-century chapter house
three children saw an apparition
The Upper Alentejo
a lovely couple from Lisbon, is
window that, with its ropes, sea-
of the Virgin in 1916—are the
After crossing the country from
located just outside Castelo de
weed, and other Age of Discovery
Luz houses, dwellings modeled
west to east in a couple of
Vide—a peaceful hill town with
motifs, is recognized as one of
on rustic farmers’ houses that
hours, we arrived in the upper
Gothic doorways, steep cobbled
the world’s most outstanding
existed here from the 18th to
Alentejo. Our accommodation
streets, a Jewish quarter and a
examples of Manueline art.
the 20th century. The ambi-
was the comfortable and immac-
well-preserved castle. Only a
The place to stay in Tomar
ence is a blend of the rural
ulately maintained Quinta das
few miles away, the medieval
is the Hotel dos Templários, a
and the mystical. In addition
Lavandas. This lavender farm
fortress town of Marvão, situ-
modern hotel with marble floors
to enjoying meals made from
and guest house, managed by
ated on the crest of a 2,800-foot
1826 BELGRADE AVE CHARLESTON, SC 29407
(843) 571-5735 SIGNATUREAPPLIANCES . NET
Photo by Holger Obenaus
116
Introducing
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Daniel ambrose
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mountain, offers panoramic
a monastery built in the 14th
The next day, on our way
9. Dining room, Estremoz Pousada.
views of the surrounding coun-
century by the crusader-era
to the town of Vila Viçosa, we
10. Walkway, Castelo de Vide.
tryside.
Order of Hospitallers. Today
made a short detour to visit
Returning to Castelo de
it’s one of the Small Luxury
the garrison town of Elvas, for
11. Cork trees, Alentejo.
Vide the next two evenings,
Hotels of the World and part of
centuries an important line of
we enjoyed shots of whiskey
Portugal’s network of over 30
defense against the Spanish.
at a tavern frequented by local
pousadas, historic monuments
Elvas was recognized in 2012
farmers. Dinner was always an
(castles, monasteries and the
as a UNESCO World Heritage
Alentejo specialty: salt cod,
like) restored as luxury hotels.
Site—little wonder given its im-
an important source of marble
lamb or porco preto, the tender
Our room, in a new wing, was
posing fortifications, impressive
since Roman times, we settled
meat of black pigs that feed on
modern and spacious. From
4-mile-long aqueduct, beautiful
in at the Alentejo Marmòris
acorns from the region’s cork
the balcony, we could take in
churches and plazas laid out in
Hotel & Spa, which opened in
trees.
sweeping views over the sur-
mosaic-like patterns of pink and
2013 and is now a member of
Our home on the following
rounding farmland and listen to
white marble and black granite.
the Small Luxury Hotels of the
night in Crato, just a short drive
the soothing sounds of bleating
from Castelo de Vide, was the
sheep and the tolling of church
Marble & Wine
modation is the creation of a
Pousada Mosteiro do Crato,
bells.
Arriving in historic Vila Viçosa,
family linked for generations to
12. Royal Stud Farm, Alter do Chão.
World. This exquisite accom-
“Seven for a Secret”, Pastel on panel, 24" x 36"
RepResenting exceptional aRtists since 1983
Gallery hours: Tues.-Sat. 10:00 – 5:00 and by appointment
843.979.0149 11096 Ocean Highway In the Shops at Oak Lea Pawleys Island, SC
www.cherylnewbygallery.com
the region’s marble quarrying
tasting (the Alentejo is known
industry.
for its red wines, which are,
Given the geology of the
by reputation, full-bodied and
area, we weren’t surprised to
aromatic), and to Vila Viçosa’s
learn that the hotel rests on a
opulent Ducal Palace, full of
vein of marble. In fact, the hotel
enough art, antique furniture
is a virtual museum of marble,
and priceless treasures to keep
showcasing both local and
a visitor occupied for days.
foreign varieties in a dazzling
Constructed by the fourth Duke
array of colors. Furnishings—
of Braganza, the palace was one
like paisley-patterned barrel
of the most important noble
chairs and whimsically shaped
houses in Portugal and became
mirrors—have an art deco vibe.
the ruling house of the Kingdom
Guest rooms, grand yet welcom-
of Portugal from the mid-17th to
ing, are decorated in soft, restful
the early 20th century. Portu-
tones of gold, gray, black and
gal’s next to last king, Dom
white.
Carlos, spent his last night in the
The hotel’s Stone Spa, ex-
palace before being assassi-
cavated from a marble quarry,
nated, in Lisbon, in 1908.
was recognized as Europe’s Best
Other excursions took us to
Emerging Spa in 2015. With its
Redondo, an ancient center for
soaking pools and many water
pottery-making; the beauti-
features, the spa offers an ambi-
ful town of Arraiolos, where
ence that’s unsurpassed. Where
attractive Portuguese rugs
else can you enjoy a massage
have been made for centuries;
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Kayak and Paddleboard Tours and Rentals on Shem Creek and Wambaw Creek
(and a wide selection of other
Monsaraz, one of the country’s
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treatments) while contemplating
most beautiful hilltop villages;
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the abstract patterns in walls of
and to Évora, capital of the
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solid marble?
central Alentejo region. Évora, a
One evening here, we
flourishing university town and
enjoyed artfully presented spe-
UNESCO World Heritage Site,
cialties from the chef’s tasting
shelters well-preserved Roman
menu. Dinner started with a
and medieval architecture within
treat—acorn bread. Its smoky,
a maze of tiny, winding streets.
truffle-like flavor had us begging
On our return to Lisbon, we
for more. The masterpiece of
spent the last night in Estremoz
the evening, a thick, tender cut
at the beautiful Pousada da
of Iberian roast pork, arrived on
Rainha Santa Isabel. A stay at
a slab of marble. It was sur-
this former medieval castle—
rounded by a garden of baby
considered by many to be the
vegetables deftly planted on
country’s most beautiful
little islands of green pea puree.
pousada—made us feel like
The heavenly finale, “Orange
royalty, with its grand architec-
Tree,” was a study in textures. It
ture, luxurious furnishings and
included a silky orange mousse,
excellent service.
orange cake, tangy sorbet and a
Once again, we were se-
caramel crisp—all baptized with
duced by Portugal. Will we go
a drop of orange water!
back to the places we know or
The hotel’s staff arranged a
explore new areas next time?
variety of guided excursions,
Who knows. In any case, one
including visits to marble quar-
thing remains certain: This coun-
ries, the beautiful João Portugal
try has a way of capturing the
Ramos Winery for a tour and
hearts of all who visit. 2
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