off the beaten path


[PDF]off the beaten path - Rackcdn.comhttps://e3bb61016ce920a729c5-f87f38f979937773a1a19c38a1e19513.ssl.cf2.rackcd...

1 downloads 137 Views 1MB Size

L E I S U R E T R AV E L

Portugal a pleasure. Primary and

2

FOR MORE INFORMATION

secondary roads are well maintained, signage is good and service plazas, with excellent cafés, are immaculate. Knights & Castles Tomar and its environs have enough historical and ecclesiastical treasures to make your head spin. Among them are no less than three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: ethereal Alcobaça Monastery, founded 3

by the Order of Cistercians in 1153 and the largest Gothic religious structure in Portugal; soaring Batalha Monastery, another magnificent example of Portuguese Gothic architecture; and—most flamboyant of all— the Convent of Christ, originally the Portuguese headquarters of the crusader-era Knights

CSD

114

Templar, an order that became

PLAN YOUR TRIP visitportugal.com visitalentejo.pt centerofportugal.com

Official site of the Portuguese National Tourist Office The Alentejo region The Centro region

GETTING THERE TAP Portugal A member of the Star Alliance, Portugal’s national airline offers service from Newark to Lisbon and Oporto. New this year are hourly flights between Lisbon and Oporto. Friendly service, excellent food and wines, and over 100 movies make TAP a pleasure to fly. In 2017, TAP will be the first to launch the new Airbus A33neo airliner, designed with fuel economy and passenger comfort in mind. flytap.com, 800-221-7370. Auto Europe With connections in 180 countries, this award-winning U.S.-based rental car aggregator helps customers find the lowest rates. Downloadable guides detail regulations and insurance considerations in every country. autoeurope 4 .ca, 888-223-5555. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel dos Templários Luz Houses Quinta das Lavandas Pousada Mosteiro do Crato Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel

hoteldostemplarios.pt luzhouses.pt quintadaslavandas.pt pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-crato alentejomarmoris.com pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousada-estremoz

the Knights of Christ in the 14th 1

115

century. Alcobaça, built by Portugal’s first king to commemorate a

headed by Pedro’s father (and

victory over the Spanish in 1385.

victory over the Moors, became

posthumously coronated by

Tomar’s Convent of Christ is

an important royal abbey. In a

Pedro!). The Batalha Monastery

perhaps the most fascinating.

place of honor on each side of

(batalha means “battle” in

Its polygonal church, dating to

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

1. Monsaraz.

a road trip reveals what makes portugal special

3. 17th-century tile, Vila Viçosa.

the transept are the elaborately

Portuguese) is dedicated to the

the 12th century, is said to be

4. Pousada Mosteiro do Crato.

carved tombs of King Pedro and

Virgin Mary and commemorates

patterned after the Church of

5. Elvas.

his beloved mistress, Inês, be-

a decisive Portuguese military

the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

2. Convent of Christ, Tomar.

STORY AN D PHOTOG RAPHY BY CHAR LES AN D MARY LOVE

Portugal captured our hearts.

century sailors who explored the

Our clockwise loop, which

spring, cork forests, olive groves

We traveled to this small

limits of the known world. Or the

started in Lisbon, veered slightly

and vineyards spread over plains

country 20 years ago on an

country’s soulful fado music, its

off course to take us to historical

blanketed with yellow and blue

ambitious road trip that took

world-influenced cuisine, fine

and religious sites in and around

wildflowers. Sheep and cattle

us around most of her regions.

wines and, most important, its

Tomar, in the Centro region,

graze in bucolic settings little

Afterward, we vowed to return.

gracious, down-to-earth people.

an hour north of Lisbon. Then

changed for decades. And

Why? Perhaps it was the

Whatever the reason, we

we traveled east to the north-

nearly every hill town is crowned

country’s natural beauty: rugged

found ourselves returning to

ern part of the Alentejo (Upper

by a rambling castle.

mountains, broad plains, cork

Portugal last spring for a tour

Alentejo), finally returning to

Auto Europe helped us rent

forests, olive groves and golden

of the Alentejo, a region that

Lisbon on a more southerly

our car. Drawing on its inter-

beaches. Or its charming white-

lies to the east and south of

route.

national network of agents,

washed hill towns. Maybe it

Lisbon. Tourists sometimes give

With a third of Portugal’s

this U.S.-based broker helps

was Portugal’s history, which

it a miss, and that’s a shame,

land area but just 7 percent of

Americans find the type of car

includes tales of the legendary

because it’s rich in history, rural

its population, the Alentejo is

they prefer at the best rate.

Knights Templar and of 16th-

traditions and pastoral beauty.

delightfully uncrowded. In the

As before, we found driving in

4

CSD

5

1926 SAVA NNA H H W Y CHARLESTON, SC 29407

6

(843) 571-5720

Photograph courtesy Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa.

SIGNATUREKITCHENS . NET

8

7

CSD

Over the next 500 years, the

inset with Templar crosses. It’s

locally sourced products, guests

complex’s medieval core ex-

attractive, centrally located and

are encouraged to enjoy the

panded with the addition of a

reasonably priced. A nearby

grounds, which include a spa in

Manueline nave and eight clois-

alternative—in Fatima, the

a cave and a little chapel.

6. Lobby, Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa. 7. Country road, Alentejo. 8. The Orange Tree dessert at the Alentejo Marmòris Hotel & Spa.

ters. Most stunning is the early

popular pilgrimage site where

16th-century chapter house

three children saw an apparition

The Upper Alentejo

a lovely couple from Lisbon, is

window that, with its ropes, sea-

of the Virgin in 1916—are the

After crossing the country from

located just outside Castelo de

weed, and other Age of Discovery

Luz houses, dwellings modeled

west to east in a couple of

Vide—a peaceful hill town with

motifs, is recognized as one of

on rustic farmers’ houses that

hours, we arrived in the upper

Gothic doorways, steep cobbled

the world’s most outstanding

existed here from the 18th to

Alentejo. Our accommodation

streets, a Jewish quarter and a

examples of Manueline art.

the 20th century. The ambi-

was the comfortable and immac-

well-preserved castle. Only a

The place to stay in Tomar

ence is a blend of the rural

ulately maintained Quinta das

few miles away, the medieval

is the Hotel dos Templários, a

and the mystical. In addition

Lavandas. This lavender farm

fortress town of Marvão, situ-

modern hotel with marble floors

to enjoying meals made from

and guest house, managed by

ated on the crest of a 2,800-foot

1826 BELGRADE AVE CHARLESTON, SC 29407

(843) 571-5735 SIGNATUREAPPLIANCES . NET

Photo by Holger Obenaus

116

Introducing 

9

Daniel ambrose

10

12

11

CSD

118

mountain, offers panoramic

a monastery built in the 14th

The next day, on our way

9. Dining room, Estremoz Pousada.

views of the surrounding coun-

century by the crusader-era

to the town of Vila Viçosa, we

10. Walkway, Castelo de Vide.

tryside.

Order of Hospitallers. Today

made a short detour to visit

Returning to Castelo de

it’s one of the Small Luxury

the garrison town of Elvas, for

11. Cork trees, Alentejo.

Vide the next two evenings,

Hotels of the World and part of

centuries an important line of

we enjoyed shots of whiskey

Portugal’s network of over 30

defense against the Spanish.

at a tavern frequented by local

pousadas, historic monuments

Elvas was recognized in 2012

farmers. Dinner was always an

(castles, monasteries and the

as a UNESCO World Heritage

Alentejo specialty: salt cod,

like) restored as luxury hotels.

Site—little wonder given its im-

an important source of marble

lamb or porco preto, the tender

Our room, in a new wing, was

posing fortifications, impressive

since Roman times, we settled

meat of black pigs that feed on

modern and spacious. From

4-mile-long aqueduct, beautiful

in at the Alentejo Marmòris

acorns from the region’s cork

the balcony, we could take in

churches and plazas laid out in

Hotel & Spa, which opened in

trees.

sweeping views over the sur-

mosaic-like patterns of pink and

2013 and is now a member of

Our home on the following

rounding farmland and listen to

white marble and black granite.

the Small Luxury Hotels of the

night in Crato, just a short drive

the soothing sounds of bleating

from Castelo de Vide, was the

sheep and the tolling of church

Marble & Wine

modation is the creation of a

Pousada Mosteiro do Crato,

bells.

Arriving in historic Vila Viçosa,

family linked for generations to

12. Royal Stud Farm, Alter do Chão.

World. This exquisite accom-

“Seven for a Secret”, Pastel on panel, 24" x 36"

RepResenting exceptional aRtists since 1983

Gallery hours: Tues.-Sat. 10:00 – 5:00 and by appointment

843.979.0149 11096 Ocean Highway In the Shops at Oak Lea Pawleys Island, SC

www.cherylnewbygallery.com

the region’s marble quarrying

tasting (the Alentejo is known

industry.

for its red wines, which are,

Given the geology of the

by reputation, full-bodied and

area, we weren’t surprised to

aromatic), and to Vila Viçosa’s

learn that the hotel rests on a

opulent Ducal Palace, full of

vein of marble. In fact, the hotel

enough art, antique furniture

is a virtual museum of marble,

and priceless treasures to keep

showcasing both local and

a visitor occupied for days.

foreign varieties in a dazzling

Constructed by the fourth Duke

array of colors. Furnishings—

of Braganza, the palace was one

like paisley-patterned barrel

of the most important noble

chairs and whimsically shaped

houses in Portugal and became

mirrors—have an art deco vibe.

the ruling house of the Kingdom

Guest rooms, grand yet welcom-

of Portugal from the mid-17th to

ing, are decorated in soft, restful

the early 20th century. Portu-

tones of gold, gray, black and

gal’s next to last king, Dom

white.

Carlos, spent his last night in the

The hotel’s Stone Spa, ex-

palace before being assassi-

cavated from a marble quarry,

nated, in Lisbon, in 1908.

was recognized as Europe’s Best

Other excursions took us to

Emerging Spa in 2015. With its

Redondo, an ancient center for

soaking pools and many water

pottery-making; the beauti-

features, the spa offers an ambi-

ful town of Arraiolos, where

ence that’s unsurpassed. Where

attractive Portuguese rugs

else can you enjoy a massage

have been made for centuries;

www.KayakCharlestonSC.com 843-568-3222

"Outstanding Guide Services" Canoe & Kayak Magazine

Charleston’s Oldest Guide Service

Kayak and Paddleboard Tours and Rentals on Shem Creek and Wambaw Creek

(and a wide selection of other

Monsaraz, one of the country’s

CSD

treatments) while contemplating

most beautiful hilltop villages;

CSD

120

the abstract patterns in walls of

and to Évora, capital of the

121

solid marble?

central Alentejo region. Évora, a

One evening here, we

flourishing university town and

enjoyed artfully presented spe-

UNESCO World Heritage Site,

cialties from the chef’s tasting

shelters well-preserved Roman

menu. Dinner started with a

and medieval architecture within

treat—acorn bread. Its smoky,

a maze of tiny, winding streets.

truffle-like flavor had us begging

On our return to Lisbon, we

for more. The masterpiece of

spent the last night in Estremoz

the evening, a thick, tender cut

at the beautiful Pousada da

of Iberian roast pork, arrived on

Rainha Santa Isabel. A stay at

a slab of marble. It was sur-

this former medieval castle—

rounded by a garden of baby

considered by many to be the

vegetables deftly planted on

country’s most beautiful

little islands of green pea puree.

pousada—made us feel like

The heavenly finale, “Orange

royalty, with its grand architec-

Tree,” was a study in textures. It

ture, luxurious furnishings and

included a silky orange mousse,

excellent service.

orange cake, tangy sorbet and a

Once again, we were se-

caramel crisp—all baptized with

duced by Portugal. Will we go

a drop of orange water!

back to the places we know or

The hotel’s staff arranged a

explore new areas next time?

variety of guided excursions,

Who knows. In any case, one

including visits to marble quar-

thing remains certain: This coun-

ries, the beautiful João Portugal

try has a way of capturing the

Ramos Winery for a tour and

hearts of all who visit. 2

Fine Art Photography • Wedding • Family • Children • High School Seniors • Pets michellecoleboltonphotography.com 843-860-5921

ANNEX NOW OPEN!

Furniture, lighting and accessories for less with our selection of quality consignments.

HAMILTON CONSIGNMENTS

1563 Meeting Street • Charleston, SC • 843-425-8451 • hamiltonconsignments.com