PHORMAL gazette

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TED’S SS13

PHORMAL gazette THE LATEST NEWS FOR ALL THINGS PHORMAL

Issue No.2

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

Est. 1988

THE TED C OM M A N DM E N T S

T H E A NATOM Y OF A SU I T

GL OBA L : R I DE T H E W H I T E SWA N

Rules for every one of Ted’s Team to remember… for SS13 and beyond.

Our step by step guide on what makes a Ted suit.

Find out where our luxury Global range is made.

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This season, Ted’s opened his SS13 Finishing School: a sartorial establishment where deportment is not that important... and where old-fashioned manners and exceptional style always top the class. SS13 tailoring sees Ted capture a refined aesthetic with the arrival of Debonair. Influenced by 1920s Art Deco, this modern, dynamic collection features relaxed tailoring presented in super soft cottons and natural linens, as well as showcasing windowpane checks in navy blues and reds. Find out how to emulate the look on page 10. Pashion this season is all about classic, sophisticated tailoring. Taking influence from the modern purveyors of sartorial excellence, the Italians themselves, our ‘Made In Italy’ collection has been developed using the finest Italian fabrics and craftsmanship, creating a suit perfect for those special events. Spring is the season of celebration, to cater for this, we have produced Phormal attire to suit any occasion. Be it a linen suit for that summer wedding, a dinner jacket for a black tie event, or your best suit for a day at the races, Ted has it covered on p6. Finally, Global for SS13 represents graduation from Ted’s Finishing School. This collection signifies the pinnacle of men’s tailoring. Taking inspiration from the regal swan, this collection showcases refined checks in exciting colours. See what it’s about on p7. As a wise owl once said, “Be the exception, never the rule.”

T IGH T L I N E S ! Ted returns to the meandering rivers, with a new collection of traditional fabrics, up-to-theminute styling and sharp lines. Page ( 9 )

GATZBYJ/T

DE BONA I R : HOW TO L O OK C H A R M I NG Y E T DISA R M I NG Check out our must-have pieces that will help to create the perfect Debonair look.

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S C HO OL’ S OU T! Take a sneak peek behindthe-scenes at Ted’s SS13 Team Day.

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TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

THE TED COMMANDMENTS

1.

The first and most fun•da•men•ta l rule of the season is ‘Ted to Toe’ 2.

3.

4.

T E D ’ S AW 1 2 P H O R M A L G A Z E T T E P R O D U C T K N O W L E D G E

T H E A NAT O M Y O F A T E D S U I T COMMANDMENT #1

WHY TED’S A CUT ABOVE

‘Ted to Toe’

A well-made suit is not just a fashion statement, it’s an investment. The art of a well-cut suit is what makes it visible from a hundred yards away, and it’s the quality that’s truly visible up close. These are the key features that leave Ted’s suits a cut above the rest.

CREATE THE WHOLE LOOK!

Sma rten up

Full Canvas Interlining

AMF Stitching

One of the hallmarks of the best-made suits, canvas interlining gives Ted’s jackets their structure, shape and body.

Our jackets feature AMF (American Machine and Foundry) stitching, also known as the Columbia stitch, throughout the lapels, breast pocket and lower pocket flaps.

Darting All of Ted’s suit jackets are made with darts. These shape the fabric to provide a three -dimensional silhouette to the jacket.

Dress for the occ•a•sion

Built-In Pocket Square Each of our Phormal jackets features a builtin pocket square... to turn on the dapper charm in an instant!

Don’t forget (attention) to deta il Natural Buttons

5.

Ted’s buttons are made from a range of natural materials such as the Corozo nut, which comes from the Tagua palm tree, and Mother of Pearl, found on the inner layer of sea shells.

The fin•ish•ing touches count 6.

It’s all about prin ts 7.

8.

Also known as surgeon cuffs, who used to roll up their sleeves when performing surgery during the Crimean war.

Ted’s (hot) look s

Be bold with colour 9.

Functional Working Buttonholes

Fully Custom Linings

Melton Wool Under Collar

French Bearer

All Ted suits feature a fully custom, designed in-house lining.

Located underneath the collar of Ted jackets, this felt-like material offers strength, durability and helps keep the collar’s shape over time.

All Ted’s trousers feature a French Bearer. This special button behind the zip signifies quality and detail, helps to strengthen the waistband and increase durability.

Ted’s smal l part s 10.

School’s out!

REIGNZJ/T

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Ted knows that not all men are created equal, which is why we offer our discerning customers different suit collections in a range of fabrics and fits. Turn the page to examine each one in detail…

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TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

ENDURANCE

ENDURANCE

SLICK RICK

COMMANDMENT #2

ENDURANCE is a collection of modern classics for all walks of life. From high performance work suits to more dapper dressing for after hours, Endurance is all things to all men.

‘Smarten up’

Slick Rick is aimed primarily at our younger, slimmer more fashion conscious customer. Each suit jacket features an intricately detailed, champagne-coloured lining. The lining is produced on a Jacquard loom, allowing for the production of sophisticated patterns with all of the Ted touches you would expect.

TED’S CELEBRATES DRESSING DAPPER WITH CONFIDENCE

Slick Rick jackets are constructed on the slimmest of our blocks to accommodate a slim, contemporary body fit. Each jacket fits close to the body in the chest and waist, but they also have a narrow armhole– a common feature of bespoke suits, which allows for maximum arm movement.

PAULZ

STERLING

GALMAG

The Sterling jackets that sit within Ted’s Endurance range are inspired by two influences: ‘Man About Town’ and ‘Rural Gent’.

Slick Rick suit trousers are slim fit, with a taper in the leg allowing a neat break over Ted’s footwear. GALMAG: Our key Slick Rick suit for SS13.

Digitally printed, the lining of each Sterling jacket depicts Admiral Horatio Nelson’s flagship, the HMS Victory, during the Battle of Trafalgar (which proved to be a decisive victory for Nelson and commemorated in Trafalgar Square).

Key features: „

100% wool composition

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Specially designed jacquard lining

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Centre back vent

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Built in pocket square

Steeped in British history, this rich, beautiful print offers a classic yet romantic quality for Ted’s SS13 Sterling Jackets.

Key features: „

Jackets have a traditional silhouette, cut fuller in the waist and chest, allowing for a more comfortable fit.

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Matching tailored suit trousers have a classic fit, with a medium rise and a slightly tapered leg.

KEY SELLING POINTS FOR ALL ENDURANCE SUITS COLUMBIA STITCH

BASTING STITCH

FUNCTIONAL CUFFS

ITALIAN FABRICS

SCULPTED FACING

Also known as the AMF stitch, this machine emulates the decorative hand or saddle stitch seen on bespoke, handmade suiting, which can be seen on the lapel.

This helps to prevent movement of both the shoulder pads and vents during transport. It is important to advise the customer to remove the basting stitch before wearing the suit.

While working cuffs are now considered a mark of luxury, they were created during the Crimean War (1853-1856), when surgeons would need to operate quickly on soldiers by rolling up their sleeves.

Famed for its production of fine quality wool, the Biella region of Italy’s high mountain ranges and plentiful water supply make it the ideal spot for washing fleece and powering mills for production.

A luxurious internal fabric into which the jetted pockets are inserted, sculpted facing is applied to the inside of a garment edge to help achieve a neat finish and is expensive as it requires careful cutting of fabric.

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Each of our Sterling jackets for SS13 features natural buttons, flap pockets and a purple, Melton-wool under collar.

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Sterling jackets and trousers are constructed on our Endurance block.

PAULZ

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CHEKMAR

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

PA S H I O N

GLOBAL SS13

SCHO OLED IN THE ART OF SMART

Combining the finest tailoring with a sharp, timeless silhouette, Pashion is designed for the man who takes real pride in his appearance. Slick and suave, Ted’s Pashion collection is the epitome of contemporary dressing and offers a sharp European influenced silhouette. Each of Ted’s Pashion jackets are made using fine Italian fabrics and feature a lining made from a uniquely designed purple jacquard Cupro, which has anti-static qualities and breathability. Dynamic, sophisticated and masculine to the core, all of our Pashion jackets and trousers are constructed on Ted’s Pashion block.

Key Features: „

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Jackets create a contemporary silhouette, tailored with both comfort and style in mind. Jackets have a more fitted chest and waist, alongside a narrower bicep and tapered sleeve.

COMMANDMENT #4

‘Don’t forget (attention) to detail’

Trousers have a lower rise and are slimmer throughout the leg, with a slight taper.

R I D E A W H I T E S WA N The Swan (genus Cygnus) is a noble creature that has been the centre of many tales and legends. Symbols of fidelity, swans also appear in Greek mythology, when Helen of Troy was conceived in a union of Zeus disguised as a swan and Leda, Queen of Sparta. Other references in classical literature include the belief that upon death the otherwise silent Mute Swan would sing beautifully - hence the phrase swan song. Inspired by the graceful elegance of swans and a big dollop of 1970s glam rock, Ted’s SS13 Global collection features psychedelic linings and glam rock sparkle. But don’t be fooled: this is no swansong but a new beginning with eccentric checks mixed with slicker styles, sharper quality and craftsmanship throughout.

REIGNZJ

COMMANDMENT #3

‘Dress for the occ•a•sion’

From weddings to black tie events, cocktail evenings to a day at the races, Ted’s got it covered this season with an assured and dapper occasionwear wardrobe, designed to separate the (gentle)men from the boys. OREVZ

M A D E I N I TA LY W I T H PA S H I O N Both the name “Ted Baker” and the term “Made in Italy” signal an attention to detail and commitment to excellence that is unrivalled throughout the world. For Ted, manufacturing in Italy is key because one has to understand their culture, their appreciation of the arts, their natural sense of colour and their respect for traditional crafts.

HAYZEEJ/T

VISCJAK

This taupe DEBONAIR linen suit is ideal for summer weddings in the country. Wear with ERNE, GATSBEE and CASSIUS brogues for a smart, refreshing look.

This PASHION jacket is perfect to wear for any black tie occasion. Team with ETTER, PARTING and CLOKED for a winning outfit.

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This is why Ted wanted to produce the Made in Italy collection for SS13. This is a completely new endeavour for us at Ted, as we have never had a Pashion suit completely developed in Italy.

The collection comprises a 2 piece, 1-button, notch lapel suit called SOPRANO, in grey and light blue, with a matching waistcoat, as well as suit separates NAPLESJ/T/W in black. Each suit is of the highest quality made using the finest Italian fabrics at our small family factory just outside Florence.

Key features of “Made in Italy’ include: „

Fine wools and wool/mohair mix

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Specially designed printed lining

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Printed under collar and gauntlet

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Engraved Mother of Pearl buttons

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Global Details: „

Made at a small family run factory outside Florence, Italy using the finest Italian fabrics

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Use of Corozo buttons. Made from the nut of the Tagua palm, corozo is easily customised and considered environmentally friendly

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Jewelled swan lapel pins

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Geometric jacquard lining

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Jacket lining used under collar

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Limited edition pieces - less than 150 made per style

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

TED’S EXTRA CURRICULAR COLLECTION COMMANDMENT #5

HOW TO TIE A TIE W h ile th ere a re a fe w d if feren t wa ys to t ie a t ie, Ted prefers wh a t is k n own a s th e Fou r- In - Ha n d or ‘S ch o olb oy’ k n ot. Here is a step b y - step gu id e o n h ow to t ie th e per fect k n ot…

TIGHT LINES

‘The fin•ish•ing touches count’ SS13 showcases a whole range of accessories that help the Ted man to finish his whole look.

A unique printed lining has been designed especially for Ted, by Ted depicting the glorious stag and rising trout. Key pieces include BREAMZ, a two button windowpane check jacket made from a silk/linen mix, FLOKZ, a linen herringbone jacket, and a brown striped suit known as TIDEZ.

Pocket Squares The dapper gent is back! Pocket squares can add a splash of colour or pattern to any outfit.

For SS13 we have also produced a Tight Lines knitted waistcoat called VISCO. A fresh take on this fishing theme, VISCO is bound to be a best seller.

Ted’s top tip: Pocket squares should be tonally sympathetic but should not match the colour of the shirt or tie.

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Drape the tie around your neck, with the wide end of the tie on your right. The wide end should hang about a foot or so lower than the narrow end.

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Cross the wide end over the narrow end and back underneath.

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Continue passing the wide end around the front of the narrow end.

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Pull the wide end up and through the loop around your neck

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With the front of the knot still loose, take your index finger and hold the knot open as you pull the wide end over the loop and through the front of the knot.

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Remove your index finger and tighten the knot carefully, leaving a dimple in the place where you held the knot open.

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Draw the knot tight to your collar by holding the narrow end and sliding the knot upward until it is tight.

If ‘Fishing is just wishing’ cast your line and make certain you catch Tight Lines by Ted Baker this SS13! „

Key fabrications this season include silks and linen.

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Range includes British fabrics.

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Exclusive fly fishing pin badge.

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Natural buttons.

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Printed shirts.

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Embroidery motif ties.

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Specially designed built-in pocket squares. FLOKZ

TIGHT LINES SHIRTS GATZBYJ/T

Ted’s top tip: the traditional style is to place the clip between the 4th and 5th button of the shirt. An updated, stronger, more stylish look is between the 3rd and 4th button.

Tight Lines shirting moves in a new, fresh direction this SS13. Following on from the success of prints in AW12, our fantastic new fly fish print shirt SUPAFLY is sure to get heads turning. For our more conservative customer, wear under WAXON (our plain v-neck) to nod towards the massive print trend, whilst still

Ties and Bow Ties This season’s neckwear is refreshed through colour, pattern and different fabrications, giving our ties and bow ties a summery feel.

capturing the playful feel of the collection. Our plain NEWDAWN has been updated with a collar pin which has been made with an antique brass effect. The Tattersall check TITETAT has moved onto a cotton poplin fabric, perfect for the summer months SUPAFLY

Ted’s top tip: Ties really finish off a look – encourage the Ted man to try on as many styles to find the perfect one. Ties also make great add on sales and make sure that you, as brand ambassadors, are showing him how to wear them. Experiment with larger widths with wider collars for a truly sophisticaTED look. Cufflinks This season’s cufflink collection sees some prints from Mainline, Archive trims, Swarovski crystals and some novelty pieces… enough for every man.

Inspired by the simple fishing salutation ‘Tight Lines’ which calls for good luck in angling endeavours, Ted has fashioned an exquisite new collection that’s set to get the fish biting for SS13! For SS13 Ted has fashioned an exquisite new Tight Lines collection featuring up to the minute styling, sharp lines and dapper cuts.

It should become second nature to offer neckwear, tie pins, cufflinks and pocket squares to customers when they are trying on outfits... Plus it also shows great customer service and understanding of the product.

Tie Bar Help our guy channel his inner ‘Mad Man’ by donning a tie bar.

FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS

COMMANDMENT #6

HOW TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE

‘It’s all about prints’ Out with the white ground check and on with a print! All-over repeat prints offer a more playful and fun take on shirting.

FABZJ/T

Ted’s top tip: Offer a cufflink every time a customer tries on a double cuff shirt.

Ted has taken a strong liking to towards geometrics, mirroring the 1920s look seen across menswear. Often worked onto light base colours, motifs can range from classic floral designs to more contemporary geometrics, like directional piece GEOTEC in Pashion. For our more traditional customer, style CAMILS on the Archive block is a beautiful floral print.

Footwear This season’s footwear goes debonair with twotone brogue CASSIUS, designed to separate the gentlemen from the boys. Style PATRII is our updated version of bestseller HAKE, and provides a perfect accompaniment to any Phormal outfit. NESSBIT

REIGNZJ/T

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Ted’s top tip: as with any statement piece, correct fit and confidence are the key to pulling this trend off.

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

S UAV E A N D R E F I N E D I N D E B O N A I R

COURTEOUS YET CHEERFUL

SS13 sees the launch of our fantastic Debonair shirting collection. One of the strongest influences that we have looked to is the 1920s/Art Deco era, which saw the introduction of a new breed of man – sleek and sophisticated.

For SS13 Ted is proud to introduce the Debonair collection. Taking inspiration from the 1920s, Debonair reflects an era of the well-dressed gentleman, epitomised by the Great Gatsby. Each jacket features a striking lining depicting the Riviera of old. Key fabrics include linens and light cottons, chosen for their superior breathability and durability.

Since the revival of the dandy look there’s a definite trend for people to adopt a smarter style. Spring Summer is a peak time for weddings, races and graduation balls so help the Ted guy into Debonair.

Key pieces in the range include windowpane check jackets REFINED, in red, and NOSTALG, in navy blue. HAYZEEJ our taupe, linen jacket will keep you cool during those summer days. Our white and blue striped suit FABZ will leave a refined air about you.

Don’t forget Ted’s details! All Debonair shirts have an exciting new trims pack which really set the shirts apart from the rest of the collection! New trims include: „

An Art Deco inspired Ted Baker logo in the inner yolk and bound down the centre placket

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An authentic ‘shank’ top button which has a special loop attach and branding

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Rounded collar on selected styles

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Luxurious gold labelling

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The inner collar stands and cuffs feature a jazz age inspired saxophone print.

DEB ONAIR

“So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.”

The range also includes:

COMMANDMENT #8

‘Be bold with colour’

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Exclusive Art Deco pin badges.

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Natural buttons.

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Red Melton wool under collar.

STAND OUT FROM THE

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Striped blue and white cotton top collar.

CROWD WITH STATEMENT

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Specially designed internal pocket squares.

COLOURS

THE STORY BEHIND THE DEBONAIR LINING GATSBEE

‘Ted’s (hot) looks’

COMMANDMENT #7

F I N I S H I N G S C H O O L : HOW TO CREATE THE LOOK

Whilst on a visit to Paris’ most famous flea market, Porte de Clignancourt, Ted found a set of vintage postcards depicting the French Riviera. Inspired, he has used these snapshots combined with a summer colour palette to produce the new Debonair collection.

REFINED

COMMANDMENT #9

‘Ted’s small parts’ Match our blue and white striped suit separates FABZJ/T with ISLANDW and GATSBEE for an outfit that is truly a statement of elegance and refinement.

Wear our colour-block cardigan BOSKOPP underneath suit separates ISLANDJ/T to add a relaxed element to a refreshingly formal outfit.

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CLEAN AND CLASSIC ACCESSORIES TO COMPLIMENT YOUR PHORMAL OUTFIT

Our smart, leather HARLEM collection sits back beautifully with our Phormal collection.

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SKOLDAY returns for SS13 in colours bold enough to brighten up any Phormal outfit.

TED’S SS13 PHORMAL GAZET TE PRODUCT KNOWLED GE

T E D S ’ T E A M DAY C O M M A N D M E N T # 10

‘School’s out!’ REMEMBER YOUR TED COMMANDMENTS!

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